81 350 SBC is farked, about to replace with 350 SBC bought locally

[BRetty]

All,

I drive a '73 C10, with the drivetrain (350/5.7 + th350C) from an '81 Suburban
A couple months ago, the engine started making a horrible clatter at startup. Not knowing it was rod knock, I didn't check oil etc, didn't discover I was bleeding oil like a shark attack. Driving down a severe hill killed it; remaining oil fled the sump and I ran dry, trashed my crank. Idiot.

So my daily driver lunched some bearings. She's sitting at work and I'm under some pressure to

-- get this dead POS out of here
-- buy a newer and reliable vehicle or get fired

(To get to work without a vehicle means leave at 445am to get to work by 7, and we often have to bounce to an install site, no truck == no job.)

At least, I work in a place that still has machine shops and engine rebuilders. The NE corner of Los Angeles County still has old school speed shops and junkyards and engine tech companies. But a rebuild is ~5k and I still have to pull the engine, get it to the shops, and reinstall it, all while I am pissing off my work and sucking hind *** every morning at 5am.

So

7 miles away, I found a guy swapping out his 350 for an LS. Engine and tranny from a '73 C20, was running and driving as of 3 weeks ago, $700 for them together.

I have no way or space to swap the engine myself. If my best friend was here inLA and all the stuff was here we might get it done before the boss just fired me and ran us off the property, but no.

So my plan is to pick up this engine/trans and take it to my good-but- $$ mechanic in Hollywood, then when he has the room, get my truck towed there and he will do the swap. He is OK with this as far as space but no info on the cost...I trust him and good ******* luck finding any shop in California that will touch a 50-yo vehicle.

So:
-- is thist a good/best option?
-- what do I need to look out for?
-- what can I do, as far as parts and prepping my truck and engine, to make this go as smooth as possible?
-- Should I just say F it and save up for a crate engine, or the 396 a guy has in Long Beach?

Any advice on this will be appreciated. Any additional info about these things, if needed to offer advice, is easily provided.

Thanks,
BRetty

 

[squaredeal91]

I always put in a high volume oil pump (not high pressure) and check the rear most main bearing at that time. Then if that looks good I usually have more confidence in it. The oil pump will save your engine on hot days when oil is thin. No 5w30 oil. Replace the gaskets and run it. That's me in your situation. Then rebuild your other engine.

 

[BRetty]

I appreciate the wisdom. I'm pretty sure my leak in this case was from the oil cooler and those lines/fittings. A new cooler and lines are on the way, along with the motor mounts. So I should also get a new hi-flow Millbrae(?) pump, are the ARP oil pump drive shafts a good investment as well?

Replacement parts list so far:

-Motor & trans mounts
-Oil cooler & lines
-Oil pump
-Oil pump shaft
-Oil pan gasket (leaning towards $50 Fel-Pro or is cork+ RTV fine?)
-Oil filter
-Spark plugs
-Fuel Pump to Carb fuel line and filter
-Vacuum hose/lines/fittings (replace + brake booster check valve)
-P/S hoses
-Valve cover gaskets
-Thermostat & gasket

BRetty

 

[squaredeal91]

Sounds like a decent list. Melling makes a good high volume oil pump. (Not high pressure) And the driveshaft that's all metal is good. Melling might even provide one with?

And for the oil pan gasket it's personal preference. Cork is good for only so long depending on how it was installed. The felpro blue rubber is really good. Be careful not to over torque pan. If it's mis shappen do some body and fender work on it so it sits flat to begin with.

 

[squaredeal91]

Only thing I'm questioning is the oil cooler? Is it aftermarket? Why do you have one? I don't think they do much good for a small block chevy but I'm no genius lol.

 

[SquareRoot]

All,

I drive a '73 C10, with the drivetrain (350/5.7 + th350C) from an '81 Suburban
A couple months ago, the engine started making a horrible clatter at startup. Not knowing it was rod knock, I didn't check oil etc, didn't discover I was bleeding oil like a shark attack. Driving down a severe hill killed it; remaining oil fled the sump and I ran dry, trashed my crank. Idiot.

So my daily driver lunched some bearings. She's sitting at work and I'm under some pressure to

-- get this dead POS out of here
-- buy a newer and reliable vehicle or get fired

(To get to work without a vehicle means leave at 445am to get to work by 7, and we often have to bounce to an install site, no truck == no job.)

At least, I work in a place that still has machine shops and engine rebuilders. The NE corner of Los Angeles County still has old school speed shops and junkyards and engine tech companies. But a rebuild is ~5k and I still have to pull the engine, get it to the shops, and reinstall it, all while I am pissing off my work and sucking hind *** every morning at 5am.

So

7 miles away, I found a guy swapping out his 350 for an LS. Engine and tranny from a '73 C20, was running and driving as of 3 weeks ago, $700 for them together.

I have no way or space to swap the engine myself. If my best friend was here inLA and all the stuff was here we might get it done before the boss just fired me and ran us off the property, but no.

So my plan is to pick up this engine/trans and take it to my good-but- $$ mechanic in Hollywood, then when he has the room, get my truck towed there and he will do the swap. He is OK with this as far as space but no info on the cost...I trust him and good ******* luck finding any shop in California that will touch a 50-yo vehicle.

So:
-- is thist a good/best option?
-- what do I need to look out for?
-- what can I do, as far as parts and prepping my truck and engine, to make this go as smooth as possible?
-- Should I just say F it and save up for a crate engine, or the 396 a guy has in Long Beach?

Any advice on this will be appreciated. Any additional info about these things, if needed to offer advice, is easily provided.

Thanks,
BRetty

Find out if the guy 7 miles away is swapping the LS into a squarebody. If so, wait until he's finished. Set your truck on fire and claim arson. Pocket the insurance check. Make the other guy " disappear" then steal his LS swapped truck. Use the insurance money on a new paint job, salvage title and upgrades. Keep a low profile and carry on. If the LS is not going in a Square then meh...I got nothing.

 

[DoubleDingo]

If your transmission is good, you could save some money and time by just swapping the engine. Or maybe you were just going to swap the engine and keep the extra transmission. Either way, it's not a difficult job, just need some time, some tools, and an engine hoist that go high enough and reach far enough to grab the old and put in the new-ish.

 

[BRetty]

Find out if the guy 7 miles away is swapping the LS into a squarebody. If so, wait until he's finished. Set your truck on fire and claim arson. Pocket the insurance check. Make the other guy " disappear" then steal his LS swapped truck. Use the insurance money on a new paint job, salvage title and upgrades. Keep a low profile and carry on. If the LS is not going in a Square then meh...I got nothing.

Met the guy yesterday and he's a Navy pilot, fit as all F***, could crush me to the size of a beer can while flying a P3 and laughing all the time. Not gonna cross this dude.

 

[BRetty]

If your transmission is good, you could save some money and time by just swapping the engine. Or maybe you were just going to swap the engine and keep the extra transmission. Either way, it's not a difficult job, just need some time, some tools, and an engine hoist that go high enough and reach far enough to grab the old and put in the new-ish.

IIRC, it's physically easier to put the engine and trans in the truck as one unit. So would pull out my engine and trans together, then would have to swap trannys with them both out. I hear ya, but gonna defer to whar my mechanic wants to do that's easier.

I have to get a working driving vehicle before I get fired from my job.

 

[midwest]

Assuming the guy your getting the engine from is doing the LS swap himself off him some cash to do your swap. Might help him get some money to pay for his SWAP. Feel him out a little but if he is going his own LS swap he should be able to drop his old motor in your truck in an day.

 

[peats]

As squaredeal91 mentioned,why the oil cooler? I've been fiddling with small block chevys since '68 and have never seen one.

 

[BRetty]

The oil cooler was something I inhereted. It was really poorly installed, so I guess I'm not surprised it bit me in the butt.

 

[squaredeal91]

The oil cooler was something I inhereted. It was really poorly installed, so I guess I'm not surprised it bit me in the butt.

I wouldn't run it personally.

 

[Snoots]

Oil cooler . . . later days. Engine now.

 

[BRetty]

Picking up the engine tomorrow. I conferred with my mechanic, we're gonna

-- use the top end : intake manifold, Edelbrock carb, HEI distributor -- from my '81 engine. Also my mini-starter, cheap valve covers, possibly my (new-ish) water pump... trying to think what else...

Here she is. Is there a block- off plate for the heat riser? Or should I keep it and the snorkel air intake?

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach