1965 Chevrolet C-10 build

[HotRodPC]

Wow, damn. I didn't realize that post got so long til after I hit submit. sorry bout that, but hope it helps in your decision making.

 

[bucket]

I once sold a small journal 327 for a measly $125. Wish I still had it

 

[HotRodPC]

no doubt. You want to get real sick? I scrapped 2 of them that were virgin cores with the heads. Also with those, I scrapped a freshly turned .010/.010 cross drilled and chamfered holes with them, and 3 complete 283's with power pak heads. I had all intent of building an 8000 rpm small journal 327. It crushed me everytime I think of what I scrapped before moved from Cali to OK. I did not have time to sell it, my family knew nothing of what it was worth, or even what it was. The stuff was at my dads and he wanted my stuff out of there before I moved, so I had to scrap it. There were other 4 bolt 350's and a virgin 4 bolt SBC400 I scrapped. Several Th350 and Th400 transmissions. Sad Sad Sad. I shouldn't have typed this ****, now I want to cry. All the transmissions I scrapped had all the good parts in them that today alone 1 drum in the Th400's sells for $125-$150 on eBay. I recently sold a bare Th400 case for $100. OK, I'm shuttin up. I won't even get to the Muncie M22 I scrapped.

 

[1low4x4]

Son of abitch. Ive typed a freakin novel twice now, went to add pics off of phootobucket and the ****** laptop freezes up. Thanks for the info HRPC, it was a nice read and educational. Like yousaid tho I'll prolly stick with a more modern 350. Hope that one I have is a 4 bolt main.

Here we go again with no pics this time.

I pulled out the rotted out battery tray, ordered a new one. Gonna need it to hold a battery. ALso pulled out the old heater hoses.

Pulled out all the little bolts that go in the heater box to remove the heater core, but still cant fig out how to get it out. Looks like there may be two tiny stamped parts holding the halves together. Dont know need more tinkering time.

Question about the truck:

The area that holds the radiator is only about 27" wide. I noticed the rad in the 85 is 34" wide roughly. Do I mke room for a bigger rad if possible, or stick the small size in there and hope it cools?

Also, the kid told me when he bought the truck it had 305 v8...which tells e with the proper motor mounts the 350 would sit right in there. WHat about the trans? He didnt say what trans was in it, I texted hima sec ago with no answer yet. It is manuel 3 on the tree shift inthe cab still, with no other shifters in sight. So that means he had to have a manuel 3 speed in there right? Will they even bolt up to a 350? I assume so since they had them behind smallblock v8's back then? IDK.

More questions im sure to come. Tomorrow I might buy some plugs and wires, dist cap and rotor, find out if I need an alt and starter of if dad has them I can have...oil pump, water pump, coolant, etc.Just to get that stuff out of the way and on my shelf when the time comes. Tomorrow I want to get that engine and tear it down, have the block sent to the machine shop for inspection an hone, or bore if it needs it. etc.

Ohyeah, this tank being in the cab...I'll still only need a regular fuel pump right? I mean no dual outlet pump like the 85 needed? Just tel Oriellys I need a fuel pump for a late 80's 350?

ALso, where abouts does anyone know of the relocation kit to put the gas tank under the bed? That can be done while I'm waiting on the engine and securing a trans...Ive also noticed a lot of people buying blazer tanks and sticking them between the frame rails in the back.....

 

[RetroC10Sport]

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[Irishman999]

no doubt. You want to get real sick? I scrapped 2 of them that were virgin cores with the heads. Also with those, I scrapped a freshly turned .010/.010 cross drilled and chamfered holes with them, and 3 complete 283's with power pak heads. I had all intent of building an 8000 rpm small journal 327. It crushed me everytime I think of what I scrapped before moved from Cali to OK. I did not have time to sell it, my family knew nothing of what it was worth, or even what it was. The stuff was at my dads and he wanted my stuff out of there before I moved, so I had to scrap it. There were other 4 bolt 350's and a virgin 4 bolt SBC400 I scrapped. Several Th350 and Th400 transmissions. Sad Sad Sad. I shouldn't have typed this ****, now I want to cry. All the transmissions I scrapped had all the good parts in them that today alone 1 drum in the Th400's sells for $125-$150 on eBay. I recently sold a bare Th400 case for $100. OK, I'm shuttin up. I won't even get to the Muncie M22 I scrapped.

I saw a "stone crusher" M22 on craigslist for 500 bucks a while ago.

 

[1low4x4]

nice truck retro.

I figured out the heater core. Take enough screws out and **** will come apart.

Looks to be original, dunno tho.

Bet its a pretty penny to replace unlike our squares

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[HotRodPC]

Some more education 1low. If you have a 350 block in good rebuildable shape, build it. You actually probably don't need 4bolt main. That is big hype. I've been known to scoop up 350's for $50 cuz guys think the 2bolts mains aren't worth much and then they think they have gold with a 4 bolt and want $300 for just a block and main caps. I've ran a 350 2bolt with a power band range of 2500-6500 rpm and about 425-450hp. The motor rev to 7000 rpm. If you're going run giggly juice (NOS) then yeah might consider the 4 bolt. The trick is have the rotating assembly balanced. Crank, Rods and Pistons. Also run a cast crank too I might add. Balance the motor and install an oil restiction kit to keep to much oli going to the top end and running your pan dry, and you run a mild all day long and expect full life expectancy. I'd get **** all the time about building a 2bolt motor. Then I'd take them for a ride, keep it in first gear and hold 6500 rpm for close to a mile. LMAO, you shuld have seen these guys, they anre lifting their legs up and staring at the floor board waiting for something to come thru it withe motor flat screaming and wound up tight. Than they agreed, OK OK OK, you made your point. Sounds to me, you're going with maybe a step over RV cam or somewhere in there, and the 2bolt block and cast crank will work just fine if balanced taking strss and strain off the rotating assembly and the main caps. I do however use ARP rod and main bolts, and platiguage every last bearing.

I wouldn't butcher the truck to put the wider radiator in. Notice the 85 cores runs horizontal, the 65 radiator runs vertical. The 65 radiator will hold plenty of coolant as its designed. If I recall the 65 radiato is fairly tall where the 85 is much shorter.

Yes, whatever trans is in the truck now behind a SBC 305 v8 will also bolt up behind any Chevy SBC NON LS motor including Inline 6, V6 lke the 4.3, SBC 265,283,302,307,327,350 and 400. It'll even bolt up to Big Blocks like the 396, 427 and 454. Its the bellhousing that matters so save and use that bell hosing if you going to keep it manual. With that bell housing you can also run a Muncie M20, M21 and Rockcrusher M22 if you wanted, or even a top loader SM420 or SM465.

 

[HotRodPC]

There is the B&M Quicksilver ratchet shifter I used in my 62 Chev Half ton and my 64 GMC 3/4 ton. Love those shifters.

 

[Old77]

We need fewer words and more pics...

 

[1low4x4]

Figured out how to put a big back window in the 65. Pretty simple. Just have to find the donor cab, buy the glass and rubber. or there is also a guy who supposedly sells a piece of metal shaped like the original to put the glass in...emailed him a minute ago

 

[1low4x4]

Got my name on the list for the guy who makes the inside panels to convert to a big back window. Cant wait!

ABout to take this heater core to my friends at the radiator shop to see if it checks out. They are really expensive new in the book

 

[89Suburban]

We need fewer words and more pics...

 

[89Suburban]

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I just threw out a fuel tank EXACTLY like that one in the bed there, it was out of my old boat.

 

[89Suburban]

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