1965 Chevrolet C-10 build

[RetroC10Sport]

Tell Marcia Brady to give them the doughnuts she is hoarding.

 

[89Suburban]

I'll sponsor you for 10 cents a day!

 

[bucket]

Nice score! I'm sure a cheap offshore repro radiator would cost much more than that.

 

[HotRodPC]

I guess that means he will eat lots of rice and beans.

 

[1low4x4]

Some questions about this 350.

1. Would it add a little performance if I had it bored .030?
2. Could I use flat top pistons with those newer style heads, or do they need some sort of valve relief?
3. Is it worth buying the $73 dollar arp head bolts or just reuse the stock ones?
4. What size cam could I run to give me a good lope that would be teamed up with a stock converter?
5. Should I stick with the newer style "valve cover bolt thru the middle" heads or find an older set? Any difference in performance?

 

[89Suburban]

I guess that means he will eat lots of rice and beans.

 

[1low4x4]

Bought a cam kit. Comes with lifters, timing chain set (my ******* forgot that and bought an extra timing chain set) springss and all that. Says its a 268 duration but actual duration is 218/218 and lift is 454/454. $337.95

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-K12-210-2/

Also bought a full gasket set, trick flow brand $119

bought a seperate rubber one piece gasket for the oil pan like $36

Bought 4.030 flat top pistons with 4 valv relief like in the 85 engine so I can put them anywhere in the block. $94.50

Bought rings 4.030

and of course that stupid extra timing chain set.

Looked for chrome valve covers that didnt look cheesy for under $150 but had no real luck.

Going to have the block bored .030 (which is why Im buying oversized pistons)...$110 to do this.

HRPC you should be happy, I'm trading the newer style "valve cover bolts thru the middle" heads to my dad for his regualr older style heads off of his built 350 in his truck. Theyve been mildly ported and polished. Also getting his aluminum intake and running a Q-jet for a while.

So anyways I hve pretty much allI need to build the motor. besides the bore, hone, and block clean. Oh yeah I'll have him install cam bearings and give me some cleavite rod and main bearings.

Thinking about having this engine painted chevy orange, and doing chrome valve covers...Ive always wanted an orange engine, and it should show good in this open engine bay. Which will also have to be freshened up to make it shine.

I'm sure i'm leaving something out.

 

[89Suburban]

 

[bucket]

All Chevy engines should be orange, IMHO. But it's ok for a 80's model to be black. Never cared much for the blue ones.

 

[1low4x4]

I painted the 85 engine black and blue is ford lol.

 

[1low4x4]

Just bought some coated headers

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-2451-1HKR/

Also percys collector gaskets, 3" collector reducers to 2.5", and some roller tip rocker arms.

 

[1low4x4]

to keep a tally Im into this build $2,815 so far.

$900 for truck
$260 classicparts stuff
$260 at oreillys
$250 heater core and radiator
$630 Summit racing for engine stuff
$515 summit racing headers and more engine

 

[HotRodPC]

Sounds like a decent RV motor build. Depending on the CC volume of those heads you might need to run 89 or 91 octane with that flat top piston. I like the idea of the flat top piston but you also mentioned you wanted a lopey cam. That one likley isn't very lopey. You might notice a little lope when its cold and you first start it up and it might have a hair of a lope to it after warmed up. Even without a lope to it, an Edelbrock Dual Plane intake and some headers, so it'll breathe well, you'll get some good performance out it. It it were me, in that 65, I'd find me some of the old ram horn type exhaust manifolds. They are also generation correct for that truck. Do a little gasket porting to the exhaust manifolts, and they've been known to breathe just about as good as a header then you don't have to worry about replacing header gaskets every so often.
If you decide to step up that cam a bit, you can go up to a .485 lift without needing to run dual valve springs. I'd imagine this is the cam grind you have. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL12-210-2/ I do like the 110 lobe center, and should give you some good low end grunt into the mid range.

Here is another cam choice you might consider. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL12-211-2/ Same specs as the cam you chose, but only 2 degrees more duration, but the lift from .454 to .470, should give you just a little valve overlap, a little more niticable lope, and possibly bring your dynamic compression down a hair with those flat tops to you can run 87 octane.

Do you by chance know the cc volume of the heads you are using so you know your compression static compression ratio? I'm thnking those flat tops might get you to 9.5 or 10-1. Get a cam with some lope and some overlap to bring your dynamic down to 8.5 or 9-1 and you'll be able to run 87 octane and shouldn't have to retard your timing to stop detonation. Sure, compression ratio will always give more power, but that power gain can sometimes be lost in having to retard the timing taking away horsepower. Then again, if its just a pleasure ride and not driven often you can run the 91 octane all the time.

 

[1low4x4]

actually add another 72 t that for a chrome timing chain cover

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66666/

 

[HotRodPC]

Just bought some coated headers

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-2451-1HKR/

Also percys collector gaskets, 3" collector reducers to 2.5", and some roller tip rocker arms.

I just noticed you header purchase. Looks like some nice headers. Have you decided what trans you're gonna go with yet? I think I recall you mentioned its currently a 3 speed manual now??? I have a feeling and curious if these headers will work with the Z bar clutch linkage. If you're going with the manual trans, you'll need to make sure clutch linkage will work with them. If you decide to change to automatic, I'd go with a B&M ratchet shifter. I like the Quicksilver or Mega Shifter. Reason being, both those ratchet shifters will work with both 3 or 4 speed automatics so if you run a Th350 now and decided later you want to run a 700r4, then you already have the shifter you need or vice versa. The motor you're building will work real well with a Th350 and Stage 2 shift improver kit giving you a very firm, 2nd gear chirping, neck snapping shift. Both of those shifters will also use the standard or reverse pattern valve body shift selection.