1965 Chevrolet C-10 build

[1low4x4]

Thanks guys. HRPC I'll probably end up re-gearing it anyway. Even if its just the same as it had.

Progress today-pulled front clip off. Gonna replace pass inner fender (any idea where to buy?) and also the middle core. SOmeone saw the passenger body to frame mount area was rotten so they tried to weld it, I had to grind it down.

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picked up the 350 I have and need to tear it down and send it to the machine shop.

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ANd now my uncle says I need a 500 lift cam? Says it'll be better....I'm about to go back and re read what size you originally posted I should run. thinking about sending that cam back and getting the bigger one.

Decided I'll take the bed off, have the frame and all suspension sandblasted and primered for cheap (supposedly) and then paint them all black myself with a gun and paint. THen redo all the brake and handling components...New body mounts...should be nice.

Here's where I got the idea, from 67-72 trucks...a guy building a 64 did this, had a guy do it about 3 hours from me, claimed he did it for $100 bucks! I dont see how he didnt spend at least that in sand and primer, but apparently its a big company and this is what they do. Honestly I'd pay $1000 to have it as nice as his.

after sand and prime

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[Old77]

I believe you can get a new fender and other parts from www.lmctruck.com as well as www.classicparts.com Nice progress today!!

 

[1low4x4]

thanks. The inner fenders? Ill have to look again but I didnt see em first time around

FIrst load of **** came in from classicparts.com

bed to frame bolts-stainless
wood floor bolts-stainless
chevy tailgate lettters
lots of general sheetmetal bolts for bodyassembly
new lug nuts,
cuple wheel studs
new heater fan
battery box

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[HotRodPC]

Why does he say you need a .500 lift cam. I think not. That's pushing the limit on running single valve springs and need for dual springs otherwise you'll crunch your single springs and/or float valves. I agree you could go a little taller lift and even a bit more duration running those flat tops. And if you want lopey, bigger will get your there. Up around a .470-.485 lift will keep you well into the safe zone on the single springs. To run dual springs you'll need more machine work to the heads to make room for the dual spring.

I like that cam I pointed out in the previous post. Reasons I like it, Its a .470 lift, still safe for single springs, should have a little bit of lope, not radical enough that you'd need a hi stall converter. RPM power bands starts at 1800 rpm, if you did want to run a high stall, you wouldn't have to go to crazy and go with a 2000-2300 stall, but stock should still work fine. You get up there around a .500 lift cam, the duration also going to come up, and then you're going to have a rough choppy idle, need for stall converter, possibly dual springs, and to benefit from the big cam, you'd need to go with a single plane intake and then there goes any kind of mpg you might be able to spare.

 

[1low4x4]

Why does he say you need a .500 lift cam. I think not. That's pushing the limit on running single valve springs and need for dual springs otherwise you'll crunch your single springs and/or float valves. I agree you could go a little taller lift and even a bit more duration running those flat tops. And if you want lopey, bigger will get your there. Up around a .470-.485 lift will keep you well into the safe zone on the single springs. To run dual springs you'll need more machine work to the heads to make room for the dual spring.

I like that cam I pointed out in the previous post. Reasons I like it, Its a .470 lift, still safe for single springs, should have a little bit of lope, not radical enough that you'd need a hi stall converter. RPM power bands starts at 1800 rpm, if you did want to run a high stall, you wouldn't have to go to crazy and go with a 2000-2300 stall, but stock should still work fine. You get up there around a .500 lift cam, the duration also going to come up, and then you're going to have a rough choppy idle, need for stall converter, possibly dual springs, and to benefit from the big cam, you'd need to go with a single plane intake and then there goes any kind of mpg you might be able to spare.

I'll take all this in and try to find a cam kit with something along the lines of what you said and Ill post it up here for discussion.

Tried to clean the place up around here, the less vehicle related stuff she sees the better mood shes in. So I stuck all the big pieces together and hung a lot of smaller stuff off the shelves in garage.

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[Irishman999]

I wish I had three trash cans.....

 

[RetroC10Sport]

I'm sorry, that struck me as funny for some reason. I have one...And a recycle can...But the neighbors let me use their spare if I need it.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Hey Nick here's a couple links you should check out. First one shows how much improvement Vortec heads have over old school, and how they make so much more power even with smaller valves and lower lift cams...
http://www.onedirt.com/tech-stories/engine/a-guide-to-vortec-vs-oe-small-block-chevy-heads/

Second link is cam overlap calculator. It will help you determine how much overlap you can expect from whatever cam you're considering. A couple examples would be Edelbrock Performer Plus cam, -15 degrees overlap which is basically no overlap at all, smooth idle, full vacuum. Performer RPM cam, +15 degrees of overlap, choppy idle, 10-12 inches of vacuum max. I've been looking at the Crower 00904 Torque Beast, works out to around -5 degrees overlap. I'm shooting for 17" vac for Street class mud racing, if not, next class is 15" vac for Hot Street class which would be ok too. Also the lift isn't so radical you have to have a lot of machine work done for new valve springs. Here's the link to the calculator...
http://www.wallaceracing.com/overlap-calc.php

Hope something here helps!

 

[Old77]

 

[1low4x4]

Headers came in, and Percys collector gaskets.

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For anyone who was wondering Im scrapping the idea of a cammed rebuilt 350, going with this.

http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performance/809/10067353/10002/-1

Also looking into a crate 700r4

 

[HotRodPC]

Dem headers are perdy !!!

You can't go wrong with that crate motor. For what you get and the price. Considering its new, not rebuilt. Nodular Cast Crank, Powder metal rods,4 bolt main, and it comes with the valve covers, oil pan and timing cover too. And no core needed, so no core to return. Its just hard to beat that deal and a 3 year warranty too. I still prefer to build my own, but everyone I know that has bought one of these, has been very happy and no problems at all with them. '

I happen to have bought one from a guy that pulled it out of a truck, and let it set outside in the rain for 2 days like an idiot. He put a socket and breaker bar on it 2 days later and couldn't move it. Sold to me with a 700r4 attatched to it for $100. I put trans fluid in the cylinders, and let it soak for a day. Got it to turn about about 1/2 inch, let it sit another day, and boom, it broke loose. No permanent damage and still have lots of crosshatching in the cylinders, so I intended to rering it, new bearings, oil pump and timing chain and gonna run it in my 85K10.

 

[89Suburban]

Damn those headers are sexy!

 

[89Suburban]

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I was wondering are those black things gaskets? And what are they for?

 

[1low4x4]

Yeah hrpc I'm taking your advice once again and buying that crate.

Hey 89s thanks, those gaskets are for the heater box under the hood. I figure if she doesn't have ac, then she's gonna have damn good heat lol

 

[89Suburban]

Yeah hrpc I'm taking your advice once again and buying that crate.

Hey 89s thanks, those gaskets are for the heater box under the hood. I figure if she doesn't have ac, then she's gonna have damn good heat lol

Where did you get those gaskets from, classic parts? I really need a set for the Burb.