1965 Chevrolet C-10 build

[1low4x4]

I just noticed you header purchase. Looks like some nice headers. Have you decided what trans you're gonna go with yet? I think I recall you mentioned its currently a 3 speed manual now??? I have a feeling and curious if these headers will work with the Z bar clutch linkage. If you're going with the manual trans, you'll need to make sure clutch linkage will work with them. If you decide to change to automatic, I'd go with a B&M ratchet shifter. I like the Quicksilver or Mega Shifter. Reason being, both those ratchet shifters will work with both 3 or 4 speed automatics so if you run a Th350 now and decided later you want to run a 700r4, then you already have the shifter you need or vice versa. The motor you're building will work real well with a Th350 and Stage 2 shift improver kit giving you a very firm, 2nd gear chirping, neck snapping shift. Both of those shifters will also use the standard or reverse pattern valve body shift selection.

Thanks for the tip, yeah I will be going with at least a th350 trans. I really want that overdrive but im having hell finding a 700r. Also I like your idea of a floor shifter, and thanks for letting me kno about the interchangeable ones.

 

[RetroC10Sport]

How far you want to drive for a 700? You can get them at Budget Wrench for $129 (+$25 core) each...It's a U-Pull-It yard though.

 

[1low4x4]

how far we talking?

HRPC-I cant find the vid of my old 86 running, but this motor is basically going to be the same exact build except itll be bored 30 thousandths. same cam same everything. it has a real nice lope and is loud as **** lol. mine should be the same an plus prettier lol.

 

[HotRodPC]

You're good to go then. So you know what octane, lope etc you're dealing with. Cam technology has come along way in the last 20 years. I was just comparing your specs to an Isky cam I used to run in my 64. It was like a 270 duration and .465 lift and didn't lope much. Although it had like 114 degree lobe center which makes a difference too. Had I dialed it in for low end power, I could have done better with it. Now days, with cam technololgy the way it is, not much need in dialing them in for street use since its all calculated and figured into the cam grind when its cut.

 

[1low4x4]

Yeah Idont have a problem buying 93 for the cars, the burb is tuned for it, the 85 runs better on it and th 65 will get it too im sure. I try not to think about how much gas we use

 

[RetroC10Sport]

how far we talking?

Austin.

 

[HotRodPC]

Thanks for the tip, yeah I will be going with at least a th350 trans. I really want that overdrive but im having hell finding a 700r. Also I like your idea of a floor shifter, and thanks for letting me kno about the interchangeable ones.

That brings me to another point to consider. If you're going to be running either Th350 or 700r4 or may be going back and forth, you'll want to find an intermediate output shaft, more known today as a long 9 in. shaft Th350. Its actually the same trans that squarebodys use. Passenger cars use the short 6in shaft, and so did 67-72 trucks. But the 9in was used in Squarebody trucks. The reason I say go with the 9in, is the 9in Th350 and 700r4 and only 1/4 different in length, so you are likley to be able to use the same driveshaft for either trans. They also both use the same yoke into the trans. This way you can be flexible and bounce around and swap transmissions without any expense since the shifter I suggested, the driveshaft will work with both. If you were wanting to bounce around between a Muncie M20, M21, M22 or fully synchronized Saginaw 3 speed manual, then I'd suggest going with the short 6in Th350 since they will all use the same driveshaft.
Have you figured out yet, I used play with my streep/strip trucks and used and tried about every combo possible. I was known for running a Munice M22 rockcrusher and a small block, then the next week show up with the Muncie M22 and a Big Block, then the next week show up with a Big Block and Th350, and then gave my buddy his Big Block back, and show up with the small block and Th350 the next week, get bored now that i've been running the Th350 auto for the last 3 weeks, and show up next weel with the Muncie M22 back in it. LOL, that's just the way I rolled. I had my truck set up to be very universal and the only that was guarenteed that I'd be running when I showed up was the Dana 60 4.56 limited slip rear end. I got pretty quick at swaps. There was even one time, a bud broke his rear end, so that afternoon I borrowed his motor, went to the races that Friday night, next Sat. morning, swapped my motor back in, then went to the races Sat night. Fun times back then in my early 20's.

 

[HotRodPC]

How far you want to drive for a 700? You can get them at Budget Wrench for $129 (+$25 core) each...It's a U-Pull-It yard though.

Yikes, that's a bit steep. I'm suprizes. All the prices you have quoted from Budget have been the same of a little less than our Pull A Part. But for our Auto trans, they are $75 for any trans + $25 core. For $20 more, you can get a 30 day exhange warranty.

 

[RetroC10Sport]

Better than $250-300 most other yards around here want.

 

[HotRodPC]

Better than $250-300 most other yards around here want.

I'm sure those would be the Cash n Carry places. True, about half price to pull it yourself. I also prefer to pull my own. You get to see what it came out of and get an idea of how it was maintained and how it looked before someone pulled it and cleaned it up. Point is your more likley to really have a clue what to expect out of it.

 

[1low4x4]

Thanks again for the tips. I appreciate it. Guy on another site noticed I had purchased passenger car headers instead of truck headers. Found these and ordered them. First thing in the am I'll call summit and cancel the other headers.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-69890/

 

[HotRodPC]

You'll sure be glad you get truck headers. With truck headers I was able to make a trans swap without removing exhaust pipes or headers. With P car headers, they are closer to the block, so you'r have to remove the right exhaust pipe and header to do a trans swap.

 

[jake wells]

Thanks again for the tips. I appreciate it. Guy on another site noticed I had purchased passenger car headers instead of truck headers. Found these and ordered them. First thing in the am I'll call summit and cancel the other headers.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-69890/

if you can find some. A truck of that era had "center dump cast iron manifolds". They flow great look nice and even better cleaned and painted with cast iron paint.

 

[HotRodPC]

if you can find some. A truck of that era had "center dump cast iron manifolds". They flow great look nice and even better cleaned and painted with cast iron paint.

You thread skimmer !!! You're reffering to the Ram Horn exhaust manifolds I suggested up there. ^^^.

 

[HotRodPC]

Just incase you're interested in knowing what they are 1low, here is a set of what they look like. They also work great with Z bar clutch linkage.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-S...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c80f9152

Sounds like you've chosen 350/700r4. As said before, if the truck has the rear end I think it does and has 3.90 gear ratio, that will be a very nice set up. Any where in the 3.73 to 4.56 ratio will be good with that 350/700r4 combo.