GMC-IH

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dragstews

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Location
Belleview Florida US of A
First Name
Jesse
Truck Year
Body 1954, frame 1975
Truck Model
R-100
Engine Size
406 ci SBC
The issue is removing them. Unless you are very good, cutting off the clamp, you need a new hose when done.
I heard that those clamps was a one-time usage ...

Going to run the ugly, being if there is ever a future need to remove the hose won't be spending $20+ for a new clamp and possible a new hose ..

Old truck needs a little ugly on it to keep it humble .. :oops:

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dragstews

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2024
Posts
279
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Location
Belleview Florida US of A
First Name
Jesse
Truck Year
Body 1954, frame 1975
Truck Model
R-100
Engine Size
406 ci SBC
Added a mount to the tube,,
This bolts to the back of the head ...

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Dipstick is rock solid now ...

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Time for the juice !
Going to take bout 10 qts to fill it up ..
 
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dragstews

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Location
Belleview Florida US of A
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Jesse
Truck Year
Body 1954, frame 1975
Truck Model
R-100
Engine Size
406 ci SBC
Since the starter was off the motor, thought it would be wise to take a look at it's guts ...

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A little clean up won't hurt a thing ...
( Tools came over on the 'Mayflower' )

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dragstews

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Location
Belleview Florida US of A
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Jesse
Truck Year
Body 1954, frame 1975
Truck Model
R-100
Engine Size
406 ci SBC
Ah a growler and a mica undercutter/lathe!
Back to like new ...

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Did replace the solenoid with a new one just because the old one has a lot of years under it's belt and a new set of bushes are thrown into the soup too ..
Should see many more years of service ..

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Bushes still had some life left in them ...
Bout half way worn out ...

Just did a bench test ... It works ....
Years back I installed a Moroso starter heat shield, was going to reuse it but found one of the mounting ears broken ..

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Just about done with the repair ..
 
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dragstews

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Location
Belleview Florida US of A
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Jesse
Truck Year
Body 1954, frame 1975
Truck Model
R-100
Engine Size
406 ci SBC
Got the starter back on, making up a battery cable that runs though a disconnect switch .. The switch was on the truck when I got it, works the best kills all ...

Wiring the whole truck is on the menu ...
Looks like I'm going to be under the dash for a few weeks ...

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The under dash creeper is going to get a workout !!

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Need to install a safety belt to keep my bony ass from falling off the dang thing ... Eek !!
 

dragstews

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Location
Belleview Florida US of A
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Jesse
Truck Year
Body 1954, frame 1975
Truck Model
R-100
Engine Size
406 ci SBC
Just about done with the work on the radiator ..

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With acquiring another brace only needed to do one weld ..
The front brace was factory welded to the rad. support bracelet, had to weld in a spacer ..

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Two welds was needed ..

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That outta do it ...

Filled the rad. up with antifreeze, no leaks yet ..
I have a pressure tester that will allow a better look ..

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This will show how good of a job I did (Or how bad of a job !)

Holding 5 psi, so far so good ..

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Lets see what happens at 10 psi ??

Holding stead fast at 10 psi ...

Going to 15 psi ..
Kind of got a wonder about the popoff pressure of the cap, it's not marked ??

My pressure tester kit doesn't do the caps .. Bummer !!
Guess I'll just roll the dice and put it in service, see what happens ??

15 psi, been holding at that pressure for a good ten minutes and hasn't dropped a pound ... No Leaks !!

Going to do a overnight test with leaving 15 psi on the radiator ... Hope to see the 15 when I get to the shop in the morning ..
 
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dragstews

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Location
Belleview Florida US of A
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Jesse
Truck Year
Body 1954, frame 1975
Truck Model
R-100
Engine Size
406 ci SBC
You tell em ... Lol

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Location: China
 
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dragstews

Full Access Member
Joined
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Posts
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Location
Belleview Florida US of A
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Jesse
Truck Year
Body 1954, frame 1975
Truck Model
R-100
Engine Size
406 ci SBC
Hummmmm ??

The cap came with the aftermarket radiator ...
Have no clue what it's rated at, has no marking on it ..

Back in 1954 the cap that the factory used had a pressure rating of 7 psi ..
Nearly 70 years has past since those days and technology has improved with material choices and manufacturing techniques ...

Welcome to today's world

Which brings us back to the radiator cap ..
The Oem cap had a pressure rating of 7 psi ..
Since the new cap wasn't marked I contacted the manufacture and asked ..

They said 19 psi .... Wow !!
Times sure has changed ..

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dragstews

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2024
Posts
279
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1,019
Location
Belleview Florida US of A
First Name
Jesse
Truck Year
Body 1954, frame 1975
Truck Model
R-100
Engine Size
406 ci SBC
Kool ...
Just checked the pressure gauge, still at 15#'s .. No Leaks ..
Just for sh*ts & giggles going to add 4#'s more which is the popoff rated pressure of the cap and see if the coolant system blows to kingdom come ??
If it hangs at that pressure I'll keep the 19# cap in play ..

The coolant system has a lot of new parts installed which most likely is a huge plus ..

* Water pump (Stewart aluminum)
* kick-ass Mr. Gasket thermostat gasket (Reusable)
* Top hose is new ... Lower hose is fairly new, wasn't showing any signs of fatigue so I didn't feel a need to replace it.
* And the Chinese radiator

The boiling point goes up 3° F for every pound of pressure (psi). A 19-psi radiator cap will raise the boiling point by 57° F.
This could be a good thing since the motor will be working harder having A/C on board ..

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dragstews

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2024
Posts
279
Reaction score
1,019
Location
Belleview Florida US of A
First Name
Jesse
Truck Year
Body 1954, frame 1975
Truck Model
R-100
Engine Size
406 ci SBC
Well, I've pumped myself silly trying to get to 19#'s ..
Said, self ya got a air hose attachments in the kit box ..
Why not put it to use ??

Holding at 19#'s .... Had a dribble at one of the top hose clamps, got a wrench on it and gave it a few more turns cured that ..
So far I don't see any more leaks ..

I'm calling this part of the doing done & over with ...

Now to get back to working on the firewall ..
Got a bunch of holes to weld up, then epoxy primer can go on, sand and bed liner will be laid on ... All that is on the engine bay side of the firewall, inside will get two coats of POR-15 and then the repop firewall pad ...

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(That should keep me out of the bars for a long while)
 
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