Rims won't fit on rear with drums.

mlsceo said:

I repeat the question. Did you take a hammer to the raised areas around the stud holes thinking they were causing the issue?

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Those wheels must've been balanced while the paint was still wet. I sure didn't have that kind of paint damage when mine were done.

Redfish said:

I am not trying to make this worse for you but I am running 33x12.50 mud grips and they don't need that much weight. If you have that much lead on that wheel something is wrong.

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I learned something new. Thank you for that information. Now I want to run them after I figure out how to fit them and see how the ride compares to the alternate wheels I will put on for now to get my pet Monster rolling. I wonder if the quality of tires could also contribute to the excess weights?

mlsceo said:

I repeat the question. Did you take a hammer to the raised areas around the stud holes thinking they were causing the issue?

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No I did not. No hammering was done in these pictures.

Cyrillious said:

I learned something new. Thank you for that information. Now I want to run them after I figure out how to fit them and see how the ride compares to the alternate wheels I will put on for now to get my pet Monster rolling. I wonder if the quality of tires could also contribute to the excess weights?

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Yes. Tire quality has more effect on balancing that the rim quality. Mostly because the tire is further from the center and any weight differences have a greater effect further from the middle/center of rotation.

Did the earlier blazers have smaller drums? They were smaller and lighter than the 1/2 ton pickups. Just so odd why there made wrong. Maybe 10 bolt is 12 bolt. But I'm thinking maybe blazers had smaller drums?

If it were me, i think I would go to the local auto parts store, order a new set of drums and see what shows up. If the new drums clear, great. If not, I'd stop there and get different wheels as it's not worth the time, money, effort to modify a part that really shouldn't have to be modified and something tells me every few months/years, there will be an issue related to the wheels and or drums.

Also, how do they fit on the front? Any issues?

Bennyt said:

If it were me, i think I would go to the local auto parts store, order a new set of drums and see what shows up. If the new drums clear, great. If not, I'd stop there and get different wheels as it's not worth the time, money, effort to modify a part that really shouldn't have to be modified and something tells me every few months/years, there will be an issue related to the wheels and or drums.

Also, how do they fit on the front? Any issues?

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Mine fit great after a little trimming. But, do as you will. I've described exactly what is needed, can't do any more than that.

mlsceo said:

I bought the same wheels. Test fit them before painting and had the same trouble. The wheel inner is manufactured a little differently than the factory wheels. A couple of hours with a Dremel wheel along the edges of the inner wheel openings and all was well. My truck is a 77 c10 and the wheels are 15x10. Not sure if 4x4 drums are the same as mine? Looking more closely at your pics, yes same issue. Just grind down the edges of the lips for clearance. I bought mine from Wheel Vintiques but it's the same manufacturer.

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This ^^

Cyrillious said:

I learned something new. Thank you for that information. Now I want to run them after I figure out how to fit them and see how the ride compares to the alternate wheels I will put on for now to get my pet Monster rolling. I wonder if the quality of tires could also contribute to the excess weights?

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What brand of tires? Name brand or Tiawanesium tires?

Wow, who’d ever think this discussion would grow so many legs?
@Cyrillious, my first observation of your picks I thought the drum was hitting the actual rim, to the outside of the steel lips on the “slots” in the rim. But it’s touching the rolled lip only, correct?
I agree with @mlsceo that is the case and you don’t need more depth than those little lips are deep, then I’d clearance them by grinding them down. It will be kinda time consuming but you likely can’t return them as you’ve painted them and selling them “used” and starting over will be somewhat costly.
If you can grind down the wheels, IMo that seems like a fair solution.
Alternately how much of a chamfer do you think you’d have to grind on the outside corner of the drums to make em fit?
Looks quicker and easier and I’m pretty sure there is plenty of meat in that area to chamfer the drums to fit (at home with a grinder). Pretty easy area to mark for a consistent profile and easy to work the outside of the drum with a grinder.
Only have to fix 2 pieces instead of 4 and IMO no more risky than clearancing the rims.

Alternately, there’s the option of wheel spacers. Either the real deal 1.5” spacers that true up the rear track width to the same as the front. Or if you have enough thread on the lugs since you’re running thin steel wheels, some simple 1/4” spacer plates assuming that gets you enough to clear the interfering areas.

Cyrillious said:

I painted them because it is only a protective primer out of the box. I did not want to see rust so soon. Otherwise if it was paint I would've left it the same colour.

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Sorry, wasn’t bagging on you for painting them, but comparing what WV offered for for different part numbers and painted primed etc trying to figure out why they didn’t fit.
Still didn’t see your part number on WV website and the closest numbers were advertised as I mentioned back on p 1 or this thread. So I think you got rims that were made more specific to different/earlier model year trucks but “fit” 6 lug squares. Or almost fit anyways!

Cyrillious said:

It's possible. GM#: 359493 is stamped on the lip of the drum that's interfering. I assumed it's the proper one? I thought I was clear with going OE style but clearly I am wrong here. Ugh!!

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I’d say that definitively makes them original equipment drums

I blew your pic up and looked harder,now I understand. I thought I was looking at the front side of a factory wheel,that wheels just made different than anything I've noticed. I think a thin spacer is probably the fastest easiest fix. I thought I was seeing the three raised bumps that hold the hubcap.

Grit dog said:

Wow, who’d ever think this discussion would grow so many legs?
@Cyrillious, my first observation of your picks I thought the drum was hitting the actual rim, to the outside of the steel lips on the “slots” in the rim. But it’s touching the rolled lip only, correct?
I agree with @mlsceo that is the case and you don’t need more depth than those little lips are deep, then I’d clearance them by grinding them down. It will be kinda time consuming but you likely can’t return them as you’ve painted them and selling them “used” and starting over will be somewhat costly.
If you can grind down the wheels, IMo that seems like a fair solution.
Alternately how much of a chamfer do you think you’d have to grind on the outside corner of the drums to make em fit?
Looks quicker and easier and I’m pretty sure there is plenty of meat in that area to chamfer the drums to fit (at home with a grinder). Pretty easy area to mark for a consistent profile and easy to work the outside of the drum with a grinder.
Only have to fix 2 pieces instead of 4 and IMO no more risky than clearancing the rims.

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That was going to be my ultimate solution for all four rims. Grind down the folded inward lips that are not welded on the inside. I need to look inside the drums chamfer circumferences as to how much I can take off on the outside lips. This job will not happen not at least next year because I want to take a break from these disappointing fit wheels. I'm hoping better luck with my used wheels for now.