Worn Rear Shock Mounting Hole (Slotted)

[maxtwms]

Hey guys, my truck bed has been sagging in the passenger rear side so I went to check my Suspension and found the shock on that side was about 1.5" longer. That shock mounts angled towards the cab.

Anyway, while removing the shock I noticed the stud was a little loose and then found that it had been wearing on the thru hole for some time causing it to become a slot.

My question is, should I just mount/weld a 3/16" plate to the inside of the frame and match-drill a new hole, or is there a preferred "standard" way of approaching this?

Ill try to get some pictures this afternoon.

 

[maxtwms]

Rear passenger shock mount now slotted

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Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[HotRodPC]

If you have the welding skills I think I'd use that washer tick and reinforce the who.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

If you have the welding skills I think I'd use that washer tick and reinforce the who.

Agreed, I'd just use a grade 8 washer to fix it.

 

[theblindchicken]

I'd plate it inside and out of the frame. Bolt the two plates together in place, tack it, remove bolt and weld it through.

Additionally, you could make it stronger by using a very short piece of tubing with the same ID as the OD of the bolt, then plate around it.

 

[Blue Ox]

What I'm looking at, but haven't done yet so this is just a suggestion, is a tab on the inside of the frame i.e. off the edge of the channel with a hole the same height and position as the hole in the frame with a tube between the frame and the tab to keep the tab from bending. Then run a long bolt through the tab, then through the frame and attach the shock to that. Basically a double shear mount, but inside the frame with the end of the bolt sticking out to attach the shock.

Hope that makes sense. If not I'll draw a picture.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

A shock, on a Squarebody, really shouldn't see any load. It shouldn't need a double sheer mount or anything else, unless you're running those goofy shock overload coils or something.

 

[theblindchicken]

@Jrgunn5150 Shouldn't see a considerable load, but if that bolt is a touch loose or the bushings wear and cause it to be loose, then the bolt will shift and wear out the hold causing the slotting. I believe the single shear for the shock is what caused some frames to crack that resulted in this bracket by ORD: http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/RearShockBrace.htm

The single shear is probably adequate for purely street driving, but may not be strong enough when you factor in dirt/gravel/rough roads.

@Blue Ox Like the picture attached?

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[Blue Ox]

That's it.

I was thinking to put the tab at the inner edge of the frame, but you've got the idea.

You could also go top to bottom instead of just a tab if you wanted more support.

 

[75Monza]

Another thing you can do if you can weld and have a welder is get a piece of brass round stock the same size as the hole is supposed to be, stick it in the hole and weld around it. Weld doesn't stick to the brass, so just push it out when your done and clean up with a grinder.

 

[Frankenchevy]

I didn't realize that k10 frames use a removable bolt on the frame side of the shock. is the same true of the k20s?

 

[Craig 85]

I didn't realize that k10 frames use a removable bolt on the frame side of the shock. is the same true of the k20s?

Yes K20's are the same.

Here's ORD's fix:
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/RearShockBrace.htm

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[Frankenchevy]

Yes K20's are the same.

Here's ORD's fix:
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/RearShockBrace.htm

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oh yeah...and outside the frame vs. inside.