davbell22602
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2011
- Posts
- 5,617
- Reaction score
- 23
- Location
- Bunker Hill, WV
- First Name
- David
- Truck Year
- I Dont
- Truck Model
- Have
- Engine Size
- One
Nice write up dude
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Nice job. I hope you dont mind a little constructive critism though.
Theres an easier way of removing the seal WITH OUT a seal puller, infact the method I use doesnt even tear the seal up so if you choose to reuse it you could,
When you take the spanner nuts off slide the outer wheel bearing off, THEN reinstall 1 of the spanner nuts, then grab ahold of the rotor with both hands and pull it off like using a slide hammer, this will remove the inner bearing AND seal,
Nice write up, only thing I see is you need IMG tags on the first pic in post #6, as well as mention installing the outer bearing before the spanner nuts. Otherwise great job! (I end up editing posts a million times when I do a write up lol)
I completely forgot about that trick! Im not 100% sure if the spanner nuts will go through the center of the hub though.
One bearing should be enough haha.
Good write-up, I'm about to change bearings and races on mine today. Wanted to research the four wheel drive as it's different than my C 20 was.
One question, I read another write up on the same topic on another site before yours and it didn't mention any of the spanner nuts or the special socket, what he mentioned was locking the hub then removing the bolts and it all comes out as one piece. Any input on that? Sounds easier but I wanted to get the full scoop
Good write-up, I'm about to change bearings and races on mine today. Wanted to research the four wheel drive as it's different than my C 20 was.
One question, I read another write up on the same topic on another site before yours and it didn't mention any of the spanner nuts or the special socket, what he mentioned was locking the hub then removing the bolts and it all comes out as one piece. Any input on that? Sounds easier but I wanted to get the full scoop
FYI the proper way to adjust pre load (according to the shop manual) is to tighten to 50 ft lbs while spinning the wheel and then back off 90* then tighten to 35 ft lbs while spinning the wheel then back off 3/8 of a turn. Then tighten just enough to line up with the closest hole on the lock ring.
The outer lock nut should be torqued to 160-205 ft lbs
If you have Monroe automatic hubs then its 70 and 35 ft lbs.
This is very important so do it by the book! Peoples lives may depend on it! Maybe yours!
FYI the proper way to adjust pre load (according to the shop manual) is to tighten to 50 ft lbs while spinning the wheel and then back off 90* then tighten to 35 ft lbs while spinning the wheel then back off 3/8 of a turn. Then tighten just enough to line up with the closest hole on the lock ring.
The outer lock nut should be torqued to 160-205 ft lbs
If you have Monroe automatic hubs then its 70 and 35 ft lbs.
This is very important so do it by the book! Peoples lives may depend on it! Maybe yours!
Is the inner/outer race something that could be bad, but not a bearing?
I know what a race is, but i guess would there ever be something to indicate it has a problem?