What is you headlight setup

[Finkaire]

I used these, little roundy round with the company with wrong parts. but overall happy with the improved light, difficult to aim. Low beams shown, huge difference! High beams later replaced as well

 

[RanchWelder]

The units Loren offered up will fry in the dead of summer down south.
They require a fan circuit and relay just the same as your cooling system, or they overheat.

I ran a 12 gauge wire harness to relays, with a 14 gauge ground, to new stoneware 3 wire lighting connectors.
Then I ran a 10 gauge hot wire to my relays, as a master power source with a 20a fuse inline from my 600a firewall 3/8" power distrobution block. (It is there for added second battery and eventually my front winch).
I fed it from the alternator and battery using 2 gauge wire, custom crimps, 3/8" lugs.

The head lights I chose to run, use 4 standard OEM HIGH Beams, in a quad beam configuration.
The dimmer switch relays (2) between 4 high and 4 low.

I can provide a wiring diagram if requested.

The low beams are relatively mild, almost brown, and work well enough. I'm not blinding anyone on the road around town.
The added benefit is I have 4 low beams, in case one low beam goes out, I still have 3.

The high beams are double the high beam strength. Quad Highs rocks.

The trick, is to beef up the weak sauce 16ga wires in the OEM harness and add the relays, so the circuit through the lighting switch only activates the relays, not the lighting system. Saves about 12 feet of 16 ga wiring defects and none of the current goes through a 37 year old headlight switch.

Beef it all up and get creative!

Use the projector lamps with caution... most are designed for an added cooling system in the lamp pods, which we do not have from The General.
If you add these expesive projector lights and blind on coming traffick, you could get hurt, as well.

Here in MT, people with projector beams blind oncoming traffick on roads with 3" past the white line, before ending up in a ditch or falling several hundred feet into a gulck, from the highway.

Everyone here complains about people using projector beams blinding them on narrow 2 lane roads.

Please consider the others on the road before you install porojectors, into your square body.

Read my sig...

 

[Subourbon]

Everything is controlled like factory. I just use the factory wiring under the hood to turn on my relays instead of the actual light bulb and the relays turn on the light bulbs. I’m a professional technician so I wasn’t about to pay for a relay kit that I can wire and fit to my liking but any relay kit will work fine or you can look up how a relay works and I’m sure there’s a million good sources with pictures that’ll explain better than I can type here. But if you need specific help or questions always feel free to ask.

Ben

No inget how relays work etc. I have a dodge. And dodge electrical is.. well... dodge. Lol inwas just curious about modifying that unit for light in the cab. So you just basically added a relay in series between the light switch in cab and the sealed beam lights on either side.
Makes sense coz while I don't have a relay for them, they're straight to battery and switch in the cab, my off road lights are brighter than my stock vehicle lights. They illuminate the "middle" I guess of the vehicle, where as the sealed beams alone kinda fade out before they get to the middle of the vehicle

 

[Subourbon]

The units Loren offered up will fry in the dead of summer down south.
They require a fan circuit and relay just the same as your cooling system, or they overheat.

I ran a 12 gauge wire harness to relays, with a 14 gauge ground, to new stoneware 3 wire lighting connectors.
Then I ran a 10 gauge hot wire to my relays, as a master power source with a 20a fuse inline from my 600a firewall 3/8" power distrobution block. (It is there for added second battery and eventually my front winch).
I fed it from the alternator and battery using 2 gauge wire, custom crimps, 3/8" lugs.

The head lights I chose to run, use 4 standard OEM HIGH Beams, in a quad beam configuration.
The dimmer switch relays (2) between 4 high and 4 low.

I can provide a wiring diagram if requested.

The low beams are relatively mild, almost brown, and work well enough. I'm not blinding anyone on the road around town.
The added benefit is I have 4 low beams, in case one low beam goes out, I still have 3.

The high beams are double the high beam strength. Quad Highs rocks.

The trick, is to beef up the weak sauce 16ga wires in the OEM harness and add the relays, so the circuit through the lighting switch only activates the relays, not the lighting system. Saves about 12 feet of 16 ga wiring defects and none of the current goes through a 37 year old headlight switch.

Beef it all up and get creative!

Use the projector lamps with caution... most are designed for an added cooling system in the lamp pods, which we do not have from The General.
If you add these expesive projector lights and blind on coming traffick, you could get hurt, as well.

Here in MT, people with projector beams blind oncoming traffick on roads with 3" past the white line, before ending up in a ditch or falling several hundred feet into a gulck, from the highway.

Everyone here complains about people using projector beams blinding them on narrow 2 lane roads.

Please consider the others on the road before you install porojectors, into your square body.

Read my sig...

I agree with everything you're saying. In quebec countryside ots probably similar to what youre describing, 2 lane road ditch on either side, and like insaid in my original post, if I'm going down a road i dont knkw very well it's very touch cloth moments when those bloody bright headlight cars come around a corner.

 

[Subourbon]

I used these, little roundy round with the company with wrong parts. but overall happy with the improved light, difficult to aim. Low beams shown, huge difference! High beams later replaced as well

See I'd like those two square lights on top of each other on either side of the grill. I dont have that set up. I have the lights in the bumper which honestly do nothing at all. Can barely indicate left or right. I bet if I had that 4 light set up I'd be alright is just a matter of what year the truck is. Mine is 1982 k20 suburban.

If i were tonget those I have to order the, for lack of a better term, "well" where the sealed beam would sit, and I can point it left right up down as needed. But then the wiring, I'd simply tee off the wiring harness for the stock lights, with the addition of relays. Would one relay per side be enough?

Cheers everyone by the way for your posts and feedback, some good looking trucks posted in this thread!

 

[82sbshortbed]

I run hella buckets.
Led's for low beams) and halogens for high beams.
And some led driving lights down low. Very happy with this setup. Had to keep some halogens to melt any snow or ice that can build up in the winter. Also used the lmc headlight harness and wired so all 4 stay on when high beams are on.
I spent alot of time aiming these to not blind oncoming traffic

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What plastic piece under the bumper is that? And what fog lights did you put in there? I have the same grill and lights but, would like the setup you have under the bumper. Thanks

 

[R Carnella]

What plastic piece under the bumper is that? And what fog lights did you put in there? I have the same grill and lights but, would like the setup you have under the bumper. Thanks

The bottom air dam is from LMC truck with holes i cut for the driving lights. The lower lights are aftermarket LED's for a gmt800 style truck. They add alot of light down low right in front

 

[gmbellew]

I run hella buckets.
Led's for low beams) and halogens for high beams.
And some led driving lights down low. Very happy with this setup. Had to keep some halogens to melt any snow or ice that can build up in the winter. Also used the lmc headlight harness and wired so all 4 stay on when high beams are on.
I spent alot of time aiming these to not blind oncoming traffic

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I have a similar setup on my 1990. LMC buckets with lows clearanced to fit 9012 and 9006xs in the highs, both on relays. I have a pair of Diode Dynamics SS6 wide fogs mounted to the bottom of the bumper with the lower air deflector clearanced for them. Its a good setup and i dont have any complaints.

I've thought about going to LED in the lows, but worry about ice/snow buildup not melting off in the winter. I've looked at the Diode Dynamics SL1, just never pulled tbe trigger. The 9012 are bright enough, the only reason i thought I'd switch is to get the headlights the same color as the fogs and MAYBE pick up a little more brightness.

 

[plugugly]

im not an LED fan. I searched for a long time and ended up with LMC clear replacement housings. I was hoping to find glass ones, but settled for their plastic housings which are adequate. I then found higher wattage bulbs, and made my own wiring harness for the bulbs to get full battery power.

Much clearer brighter light. For a fairly affordable upgrade, I am happy with it.

 

[RanchWelder]

LMC sells the replacement harness and relays.

If you wire it your self, you'll be wiring 1 relay per pair.
Relay for low beams,
Relay for high beams.


Simple:

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Quad beams:

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2 Beams to quad beams (Notice the yellow fuse in a water tight capsule).:

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5 pin relay for dual headlights on the old style round lamps option. Realy 1 Low beams ON/OFF ONLY:

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Here's a thread from 2013:
https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/headlight-relay-mod.5351/

2017:

Headlight Upgrade

I have an 1984 K20 that we have been rebuilding. My son has been driving it and has asked if we can upgrade the headlights. It currently has Sealed beams 2B1-Halogen lights in it. Are there any upgrades to help make it brighter while driving at night?

www.gmsquarebody.com

 

[Dano500]

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I got these on Amazon. They are plug and play. Work great. Only middle row turn on for low beam. Sharp it off.

I hate it when people put bright aftermarket lights and don’t aim them and then blind the rest of us. Aim them. Lol

 

[F-64]

I haven't converted my R10 from the stock sealed beams as my options aren’t that great (I have the 90’s Suburban grill)

But I have retrofitted an HID projector lens setup on a 2006 Kia Sorento ---Morimoto D2s minis and the mini HB. That took about 2 months of research, mounting, aiming and wiring.

Anyway, Morimoto and Holley have come up with a light that I would get if they had my size---they have your size (again my smaller Suburban headlights).

https://www.morimotohid.com/Sealed-Beam-Holley-RetroBright-LED-Headlights-5x7_3?quantity=1

It has a led bulb. This means you won’t need a relay as it draws much less current than your sealed beams (25w low beam 30w high beam). So your wiring will be pretty simple.

You can choose between three colors (tungsten yellow 3000K, daylight blue 5700K, or Euro Yellow)

The beam pattern is also not going to blind oncoming traffic if aimed correctly(top of headlight beam down 2.5” at 25’). Yet in that beam area you will have pretty good even brightness. Morimotos have a pretty sharp cutoff at the top of the beam. They ain’t cheap but should be simple to install and have a 2 year warranty. Check them out—do your research.

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[squaredeal91]

I haven't converted my R10 from the stock sealed beams as my options aren’t that great (I have the 90’s Suburban grill)

But I have retrofitted an HID projector lens setup on a 2006 Kia Sorento ---Morimoto D2s minis and the mini HB. That took about 2 months of research, mounting, aiming and wiring.

Anyway, Morimoto and Holley have come up with a light that I would get if they had my size---they have your size (again my smaller Suburban headlights).

https://www.morimotohid.com/Sealed-Beam-Holley-RetroBright-LED-Headlights-5x7_3?quantity=1

It has a led bulb. This means you won’t need a relay as it draws much less current than your sealed beams (25w low beam 30w high beam). So your wiring will be pretty simple.

You can choose between three colors (tungsten yellow 3000K, daylight blue 5700K, or Euro Yellow)

The beam pattern is also not going to blind oncoming traffic if aimed correctly(top of headlight beam down 2.5” at 25’). Yet in that beam area you will have pretty good even brightness. Morimotos have a pretty sharp cutoff at the top of the beam. They ain’t cheap but should be simple to install and have a 2 year warranty. Check them out—do your research.

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Those are actually

 

[Ajax19]

I'm running 5x7(7x6 they are the same) Amazon led they are plug and play on my 83 brightest headlights I have ever seen no need for light bar with these badboys tip yellow led fogs combo with the white led softer on the eyes hated my sealed beams love driving at night now top row and 3 center row on low beam all of the lights on high

 

[David King]

Might want to check out Dapper Lighting LED's. I have them on my 85 C-10. No relays, no extra wiring issues, works with existing wiring. (833)-327-7371.