What have you done to your square lately??

[bluex]

Damn, that sucks the big one, hope the wife is ok..

Agreed - and good luck getting the square up and rolling.

Thanks guys, she fractured her collar bone and broke her 2nd rib on the left side. Banged up her left knee and ankle to. She was pretty sore for a few days but seems to be better now.

Hope she's OK. You might ask if you can buy the vehicle from the insurance company and then u'd have a donor vehicle for the square. You have that option, most don't know though. Depending on the mileage of course. Who knows higher mileage.....super cheap.

Just a thought.

I possibly will buy it back so I can part it for money towards the replacement. I am just now putting my resealed/painted up 350 back in the 78 and I honestly cant afford the other parts needed to swap it. I will pass it on to someone who will hopefully do something cool with it if the buyback price isnt to high. I has 203753 on it, and it ran great other than some pistion slap on a cold start which isnt abnormal for these engines.

Oh and the insurance looked at it yesterday. Almost $5200 in damage, she's done.

 

[Old77]

That sucks, Paul. Sorry to hear

 

[foamypirate]

Finally got some custom A/C hoses made up and wired up the A/C system for my LS swap. Now I just need to flush the evaporator and high pressure liquid line, install the hoses, install the orifice tube, hook up the climate control vacuum line, install a new blower motor, pull a vacuum, and charge that biatch.

Lol..."just" have to do list is a little longer than I thought.

 

[CRM]

Picked up a few items at "you pull it". Apply a little vinyl paint and it's good to go.

 

[Camar068]

Finally got some custom A/C hoses made up and wired up the A/C system for my LS swap. Now I just need to flush the evaporator and high pressure liquid line, install the hoses, install the orifice tube, hook up the climate control vacuum line, install a new blower motor, pull a vacuum, and charge that biatch.

Lol..."just" have to do list is a little longer than I thought.

Haven't look at the geometry or the hoses. When I go to do the LS swap, is it bolt on compatible? My compressor is low passenger side if i remember correctly. I don't have AC on the 350 I have currently so doing it when the LS swap is done is at the bottom of the list.

 

[r67northern]

Finished getting this back together and upgraded. I added a heater core bypass for the hot Louisiana weather, and then a Summit air filter.

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R20 upgrades by Lineswest, on Flickr

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R20 upgrades by Lineswest, on Flickr

I wasn't sure what to do with the smog pump, I felt bad about just letting it draw air directly from the engine compartment but the new air filter had no place to attach the original line ... So a universal 1in OD filter from Amazon is doing the trick.

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R20 upgrades by Lineswest, on Flickr

Getting rid of the air pump line really cleaned up the engine compartment too. I wasn't quite ready to pull it yet.

 

[foamypirate]

Haven't look at the geometry or the hoses. When I go to do the LS swap, is it bolt on compatible? My compressor is low passenger side if i remember correctly. I don't have AC on the 350 I have currently so doing it when the LS swap is done is at the bottom of the list.

I used a factory low mount compressor (Denso 10S17F) with the Tejas Steelworks mounts. You might be able to position the engine with some Dirty Dingo sliders to where you can use the factory low mount compressor, but I'm not 100% sure on that. I did have to notch the frame to clear the A/C hoses from the compressor.

I used the factory compressor hoses. I took them to a shop and had them weld on new barb fittings and crimp new hose and hose ends to mate up to the Squarebody A/C stuff. I bought an ACDelco replacement parallel flow condenser for a 91' Blazer (PN 156960). This required some minor tweaking to mount, but wasn't difficult at all.

Wiring will depend on your harness. I have a blue/green PCM that takes a serial request, so none of the A/C clutch engagement is handled by the PCM, since I have no way to send an A/C on serial request to it. What the PCM will do, however, is read a pressure transducer in the high side line from the compressor, and control the fans based on the pressure. I used a BP Automotive harness, and they had the wiring for the pressure transducer built into the harness. Since the PCM doesn't control the clutch, you need to make sure you run a high pressure cut switch to shut off the compressor in event of high pressure (blocked condenser, failed fan, etc). The new Denso 10S17F I bought came with one. It will cut power to my A/C clutch relay when the system hits 455 psi on the high side.

I filled the system with 8 oz of PAG 46, and the shop that charged it put 2 lbs of R134a in it (best vent temps at this charge). At 2 lbs, it cools nicely and the accumulator is sweating, indicating a complete charge. This is only a baseline, every setup will differ somewhat, depending on hoses, condenser size, etc.

 

[r67northern]

I used a factory low mount compressor (Denso 10S17F) with the Tejas Steelworks mounts. You might be able to position the engine with some Dirty Dingo sliders to where you can use the factory low mount compressor, but I'm not 100% sure on that. I did have to notch the frame to clear the A/C hoses from the compressor.

I used the factory compressor hoses. I took them to a shop and had them weld on new barb fittings and crimp new hose and hose ends to mate up to the Squarebody A/C stuff. I bought an ACDelco replacement parallel flow condenser for a 91' Blazer (PN 156960). This required some minor tweaking to mount, but wasn't difficult at all.

Wiring will depend on your harness. I have a blue/green PCM that takes a serial request, so none of the A/C clutch engagement is handled by the PCM, since I have no way to send an A/C on serial request to it. What the PCM will do, however, is read a pressure transducer in the high side line from the compressor, and control the fans based on the pressure. I used a BP Automotive harness, and they had the wiring for the pressure transducer built into the harness. Since the PCM doesn't control the clutch, you need to make sure you run a high pressure cut switch to shut off the compressor in event of high pressure (blocked condenser, failed fan, etc). The new Denso 10S17F I bought came with one. It will cut power to my A/C clutch relay when the system hits 455 psi on the high side.

I filled the system with 8 oz of PAG 46, and the shop that charged it put 2 lbs of R134a in it (best vent temps at this charge). At 2 lbs, it cools nicely and the accumulator is sweating, indicating a complete charge. This is only a baseline, every setup will differ somewhat, depending on hoses, condenser size, etc.

Looks like it's doing really well, nice setup.

 

[Burban]

Cleaned all the turds, seat stuffing and other mouse nesting out the interior. Cleaned the possum nesting, made mainly of corn shucks (thanks Midwest) out the engine bay.

 

[bluex]

That sucks, Paul. Sorry to hear

Ya it really does and of course they are low balling the crap out of me. I've spent the last two days just trying to get someone on the phone that can actually do something. For what insurance costs this is ridiculous....

 

[CRM]

Painted and installed both sunvisors and arm rests I picked up from "You pull it". Pulled the small bezel that covers the gauges and painted the backside white. What a difference! While I had the lens off I used a 3M restoration kit to clean it. It's too far gone to be perfectly clear but there is some improvement.

 

[animal]

AC fixed and charged, power window on drivers side fixed, blower motor fixed, next is a "new" carb to replace the holley that's currently on it. Should be completed tomorrow then just drive it.

 

[Camar068]

I used a factory low mount compressor (Denso 10S17F) with the Tejas Steelworks mounts.....

Thanks Foamy, great info to have when I get there.

 

[Fastereddie]

Got my door panels done today

After

 

[silverscottsk10]

Nothing more than walk by it [emoji24]