What have you done to your square lately??

[79K10]

swapped out the MC ... im a little worried i went too tight and started to strip the threads coming out of the booster... how bad would that bad? fml ... anyway, im sure ill need to bleed the whole system out asap, but it was dark and i was done for the night

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war wounds from the lid of the old MC... felt like it was saying well F you then, hahaha blood all over the booster and brake lines, lmfao

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[79K10]

old water temp gauge wasnt working (never has), i went and got a new one... i was gonna try and fix the old one too but i ran over when i went to the gas station lol

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oh i hooked up the volt meter last night, ran wires to the fuse block and ground by the brake assembly ... its reading kinda low, even with the motor on it was floating around 12, is there a better spot to hook it up? should be 14.5 running, the fuse panel should show that right?

 

[flyboy1100]

That's what I thought
My previous owner hacked up my wiring
Pulled out about 40 foot of wire with no destination at either end on just one wire
Was a fun 3 hours upside down to say the least

Where did you get your adapter?
I'd like to have my radio work in acc position

PO hacked all those off. When i swapped from the old broken deck to my new pioneer i just connected straight to the wires. no adapter really required. lets be honest, are you going to reinstall the factory radio ever??? just search out a wiring diagram, i found one but can't remember where.

the po also used a vampire tap to one of the acc positions on the fuse box, so i left that wire alone. i hate vampire taps, but they tapped so incredibly close to the connector that i can't remove it

 

[foamypirate]

PO hacked all those off. When i swapped from the old broken deck to my new pioneer i just connected straight to the wires. no adapter really required. lets be honest, are you going to reinstall the factory radio ever??? just search out a wiring diagram, i found one but can't remember where.

the po also used a vampire tap to one of the acc positions on the fuse box, so i left that wire alone. i hate vampire taps, but they tapped so incredibly close to the connector that i can't remove it

You might not reconnect the factory stereo, but you might want to swap your existing radio out for a different one. The adapter harness lets you cut and solder the new radio's adapter together out of the truck, instead of hanging under the dash trying to do it.

 

[flyboy1100]

I was able to do it all from the radio opening, the po left enough wire to be able to pull the wires through and sit on the seat to do all the work.

You can always add on more wire if for some reason you don't have enough.

Some vehicles an adapter makes sense, like my subaru. But not this truck

 

[silverscottsk10]

I like the adapters for the reason of being able to solder out of the truck
And the harness wouldn't hang under the dash when pushed back all the way
Plus there wouldn't be 3 wires running loose under the dash
Would just be a simpler way I suppose

 

[Stewzer55]

I agree, use the adapter harness over hacking up the wiring because for some reason or another it makes the radio removeable and serviceable.

 

[silverscottsk10]

I spent 3 hours undoing wiring
Adapters will be used once found lol

 

[89Suburban]

swapped out the MC ... im a little worried i went too tight and started to strip the threads coming out of the booster... how bad would that bad? fml ... anyway, im sure ill need to bleed the whole system out asap, but it was dark and i was done for the night

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war wounds from the lid of the old MC... felt like it was saying well F you then, hahaha blood all over the booster and brake lines, lmfao

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About time we saw some busted knuckle tinkering in here.

 

[GTME94]

I spent 3 hours undoing wiring
Adapters will be used once found lol

I just happened to find my adapter at Walmart. I know Crutchfield sells them.

 

[silverscottsk10]

I'll have to find these

 

[HotRodPC]

swapped out the MC ... im a little worried i went too tight and started to strip the threads coming out of the booster... how bad would that bad? fml ... anyway, im sure ill need to bleed the whole system out asap, but it was dark and i was done for the night

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war wounds from the lid of the old MC... felt like it was saying well F you then, hahaha blood all over the booster and brake lines, lmfao

You must be registered for see images attach

You should have enough room on the stud to double nut it if you think you stripped the threads. Just put another nut over the existing nut as a spacer and then you'll be on good threads again.

 

[one4fun]

Installed a new p/s pump and pressure line. New steering wheel and door hinge pins are next.

 

[smoothandlow84]

Replaced all of the interior lighting with led. Cluster lights, dome light and added some led strip lights at each kick panel...now I can see inside the truck when something gets dropped on the floor. I also replaced the incandescent cargo light with a similar led strip light.....much brighter than the cheesy incandescent bulb. Installed my oem replacement tail lights. Thirty plus years of sun and uv rays made the original lights faded and cracked.

 

[HotRodPC]

Looked at it sitting in my driveway on blocks again. Been to busy to finish the transmission build. Actually haven't decided which trans to build for it. I have 4 different ones now. Not sure if I want to pull apart the passenger car that I was assured worked, to put in the truck output shaft, piece one together that I have parts laying around for and a bare case, one I have that is a truck trans that needs rebuilt cuz it don't work, or rebuild the original one that had the mud ran through it. Think I may just go with the stocker build and none of the good hard parts and a little work to firm up the shifts a bit about equal to a Stage 1 RV Tow kit. I'll wait til I get the kit with waffled clutches to build the stronger trans with the good hard parts and a nice Stage 2 kit.