What have you done to your square lately??

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350runner

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Ceasar
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c10
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Sent from the dust in front of you!
 

bucket

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Dear mother of god. If you are going to swap from points to HEI PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF GOD DO THE WIRING PROPERLY.

I was trying to figure out what was going on with my truck in regards to wiring and I noticed today that the wire for the coil 12v had another 12v line spliced to run to the choke.

I remembered reading that using the original wire for the points to power your coil is NOT advised because while the wire will feed 12v during startup it will only provide 9v or so while it is running.

So because of this I ran a entirely new 12g wire from the bulkhead of the firewall to the distributor which well should immensely.

Oh did I mention it was a 1.5hr round trip to buy the stupid terminal for the bulkhead connector... but it is done now.

Yes that is fine.. What isn't fine is using the resistor wire from the points setup because you will only be feeding 9.5v to your distributor and choke when the vehicle is running... :lazer:

When I bought my '70 Impala, the previous owner had swapped in an HEI dizzy. When I was making some engine repairs, I noticed the coil power was wired to the original resistance wire. So I fixed it. Oddly enough, it didn't seem to make a noticeable difference in how it ran. I don't drive it hard though.
 

79K10

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painted the door panels, made a 98 silverado seat fit, hooked up the volt gauge

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HotRodPC

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Made a couple brackets for holding a hi-lift in the bed of my K10. Used 2" x 1/8" flat steel, 1/2" grade 8 bolts, stainless wing nuts, and some 1/16" nylon coated cable to tether the retainer clips when removing the jack. Some etching primer and a few coats of rustoleum for the finished product.

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Perfect. That's what I was referring too. You should be able to get a shovel handle in behind the jack too as part of your "get unstuck" tool kit.
 

HotRodPC

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painted the door panels, made a 98 silverado seat fit, hooked up the volt gauge

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Great pics for the Before and After photo thread.
 

foamypirate

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Trying to track down a rhythmic vibration that has been in my 84 C10' since I got it running. Measured the driveshaft angles, and the trans is 1.5* down, pinion 1.3* up, relative to the driveshaft. I think those should be closer to 3, but being that they match, I'm not so sure they are the cause of the vibration.
 

smoothandlow84

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Installed my rollpan, and replaced the front four headlights. Installed my ignition bypass so now I can park it and disable the ability for theives to drive off with my truck in a hurry....it will at least slow them down.
 

HotRodPC

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Trying to track down a rhythmic vibration that has been in my 84 C10' since I got it running. Measured the driveshaft angles, and the trans is 1.5* down, pinion 1.3* up, relative to the driveshaft. I think those should be closer to 3, but being that they match, I'm not so sure they are the cause of the vibration.

That's running the 10 bolt rear axlle and a 700r4 or Th350 with 6in tailshaft? Lemme know if anyone is passing thru OKC to your area with room to carry a driveshaft. I'm fairly certain I still have driveshafts out of an 81 Chev Longbed C10 that had a Th350 6in shaft and 10 bolt rear, and the same driveshaft from an 81 GMC C1500 with 10bolt rear and Th350 6in tailshaft. Either of those should fit yours and were good when in use. Or even borrow one from someone else for purpose of elimination. If that's the problem then we can see about getting one of mine to you. I'd suggest new joints in them just because though.
 

foamypirate

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That's running the 10 bolt rear axlle and a 700r4 or Th350 with 6in tailshaft? Lemme know if anyone is passing thru OKC to your area with room to carry a driveshaft. I'm fairly certain I still have driveshafts out of an 81 Chev Longbed C10 that had a Th350 6in shaft and 10 bolt rear, and the same driveshaft from an 81 GMC C1500 with 10bolt rear and Th350 6in tailshaft. Either of those should fit yours and were good when in use. Or even borrow one from someone else for purpose of elimination. If that's the problem then we can see about getting one of mine to you. I'd suggest new joints in them just because though.

Yessir, 6" TH350 with a 10-bolt. I'm going to see if I can get this one balanced, and we can go from there. I'd sure love for this vibration to go away, been dealing with it for 2 years...
 

HotRodPC

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Yessir, 6" TH350 with a 10-bolt. I'm going to see if I can get this one balanced, and we can go from there. I'd sure love for this vibration to go away, been dealing with it for 2 years...

Good idea. Any flaws in the tube causing a vibration should show up. If it can't be balanaced lemme know. I'm sure I have 2 of those shafts out at my dads. Might even have 1 of them here.
 

silverscottsk10

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k10
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Cleaning out wires under my dash and these was tucked back against the firewall
Any ideas on what they could be?
For stock radio perhaps?
 

flyboy1100

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k1500
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305, 700r4??, 3.42 gears
Pretty sure those are all factory radio, colors look right anyway
 

GTME94

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454/TH400/14bff 3.73
Yes those are the factory radio connectors. I bought an adaptor to wire in a new head unit that plugs into them so I didn't have to hack up the factory wiring.
 

silverscottsk10

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Pretty sure those are all factory radio, colors look right anyway


That's what I thought
My previous owner hacked up my wiring
Pulled out about 40 foot of wire with no destination at either end on just one wire
Was a fun 3 hours upside down to say the least

Where did you get your adapter?
I'd like to have my radio work in acc position
 

silverscottsk10

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Put my panel in with the aluminum inserts
 

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