What have you done to your square lately??

[NOPHO84K30]

If you want the best look for tinting the vent glass. pull the lock off, over size the back part of the glass when cutting it out. Then on the inside cut everything out that you can down to the metal flush the crap out of it with soapy water. Then clean it spray your piece dont spray the glass get it in there leave the back oversize hanging off let it dry up some then use a heat gun will dry faster then file the rear edge with a fine file. Then cut the hole out put knob back on itll look like its factory tinted glass. With no gap at the end ...im a tinter in az

 

[chubble]

If you want the best look for tinting the vent glass. pull the lock off, over size the back part of the glass when cutting it out. Then on the inside cut everything out that you can down to the metal flush the crap out of it with soapy water. Then clean it spray your piece dont spray the glass get it in there leave the back oversize hanging off let it dry up some then use a heat gun will dry faster then file the rear edge with a fine file. Then cut the hole out put knob back on itll look like its factory tinted glass. With no gap at the end ...im a tinter in az

Thanks for the tip. If it would ever stop being so damn windy here I would let you know how it turns out.

 

[89Suburban]

Dropped the lower control arms off to have them reinforced under the bushings. Swapped steering wheels, and finished up the front suspension tear down. Waiting on my offset upper shafts to start reassembly, one came today right part # on the box regular straight shaft in the box though

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Man I would love to do that with mine. Shame you didn't due a write up, we could use one here. With the tool sizes and such. Are you going to replace the studs for that top shaft?

 

[bluex]

Man I would love to do that with mine. Shame you didn't due a write up, we could use one here. With the tool sizes and such. Are you going to replace the studs for that top shaft?

It hasn't been to bad so far. I can do a write up on if needed, I just haven't taken many pictures during disassembly. The upper bushings came out pretty easy I thought with the air hammer. I haven't actually figured out how I'll get the new ones in.

Those studs are staying, I'm not dropping that cross member because that means pulling the engine....

 

[HotRodPC]

If his wife is anything like mine the first thing she said to him after he came in the house was "you stink"

mine too she won't let me touch her with my greasy hands until I've washed up

mine does that to me quite often...

From my wife the other day: "You look kinda hot all covered with grease in your Carhartts."

I never had that problem with either of the kids mothers. I'm actually one of those that when I'm nasty greasy or sweaty from out mowing the yard or something, I don't like to be touched. Ohhhhhh Noooo. Of course they insisted on a biggo bear hug as soon as I walk in the door. That always just grossed me out.

 

[Old77]

nice, blue!!! I need to do a front suspension rebuild on mine, too! I just haven't gotten around to it yet.


Tonight, I'll have some time to kill without the kids or wife so I'm getting the truck out to tootle around town. I'm taking a buddy up to my cousin's house to pick up his truck. He's in the process of doing some fix up on his 91 S-10 and my cousin is a good welder so I've gotten them in contact. This buddy has also ask that I assist with his build which I'm happy to do. I love those square body s-10 and his is really pretty solid! My cousin welded in new rockers and cab corners for him this weekend. New doors are next but other than that the body on it is good and the 4.3 runs decent. So that'll be my night. My cousin also has a 49 Ford on bags that he built himself and has had since he was 16 and also has a restored late 70's bronco that he's had since he was 17. He's a very skilled dude and has got some great fab skills.

 

[HotRodPC]

Dropped the lower control arms off to have them reinforced under the bushings. Swapped steering wheels, and finished up the front suspension tear down. Waiting on my offset upper shafts to start reassembly, one came today right part # on the box regular straight shaft in the box though

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That's the way I like to do bushings and ball joints. I know most will buy all the uppers and do that, then later on do the lowers if funds are an issue. Me,.... I prefer to do one side at a time and remove the whole A frame assembly and do it all. Then the next payday or time to tear it apart it, do the other side upper and lower. Then the 3rd time, is when I'd do the tie rod ends, idler and pitman arm. After that, time for the alignment but everything is new and should be good to go for at least 10 years.

Man I would love to do that with mine. Shame you didn't due a write up, we could use one here. With the tool sizes and such. Are you going to replace the studs for that top shaft?

Yeah, write up would be cool. NOOO, I wouldn't replace those studs unless there is a problem with them. Remember the issue I had on the C20? Those are a major PITA to swap. If they're in good shape, they're in good shape. About all I'd there is maybe chase the threads with the die. If I could find them reasonably easy and cheap, I might replace the nuts too, but generally, unless those studs have been hammered on like starting to get cut into, or spinning, then I'd always resue them.

 

[bluex]

I actually had all the parts already from an abandoned project. The new upper shafts come with new nuts for those studs. The other side is completely torn down as well. The only thing I didn't have on hand was the upper offset shafts. I kept all these parts when I sold the other project because I knew this day would come an that they would work for my truck to.

 

[HotRodPC]

I always liked doing complete front suspension overhaul. They drive like a brand new truck when you're all done and get it aligned. Like a total different vehicle.

 

[SlickGTP]

I always liked doing complete front suspension overhaul. They drive like a brand new truck when you're all done and get it aligned. Like a total different vehicle.

Yup... I haven't been able to get to the ball joints and bushings yet, but just refreshing the steering linkages and all made the truck a whole lot more enjoyable to drive.

 

[bluex]

I need to go grab another Jeep shaft for this to be a complete rebuild. I sold the one I had because I was under the impression it wouldn't work on 78's. The write up here says it will though

Anyone already done one on a 78?

 

[HotRodPC]

I need to go grab another Jeep shaft for this to be a complete rebuild. I sold the one I had because I was under the impression it wouldn't work on 78's. The write up here says it will though

Anyone already done one on a 78?

I'd check into making sure it worked too. I forget what issue Retro ran into on a truck and couldn't use it when he thought he could. I forget now what that issue was.

 

[89Suburban]

That's the way I like to do bushings and ball joints. I know most will buy all the uppers and do that, then later on do the lowers if funds are an issue. Me,.... I prefer to do one side at a time and remove the whole A frame assembly and do it all. Then the next payday or time to tear it apart it, do the other side upper and lower. Then the 3rd time, is when I'd do the tie rod ends, idler and pitman arm. After that, time for the alignment but everything is new and should be good to go for at least 10 years.



Yeah, write up would be cool. NOOO, I wouldn't replace those studs unless there is a problem with them. Remember the issue I had on the C20? Those are a major PITA to swap. If they're in good shape, they're in good shape. About all I'd there is maybe chase the threads with the die. If I could find them reasonably easy and cheap, I might replace the nuts too, but generally, unless those studs have been hammered on like starting to get cut into, or spinning, then I'd always resue them.

If one were to do it like that in 3 steps, what is your guess on the cost of each step in parts? I know my upper shaft and studs are rusted to phuck, I'm a little scared to even put a wrench near them at all. But it would be great to get that stuff safely apart and clean it all up and paint it and put together with all the new stuff.

 

[foamypirate]

If one were to do it like that in 3 steps, what is your guess on the cost of each step in parts? I know my upper shaft and studs are rusted to phuck, I'm a little scared to even put a wrench near them at all. But it would be great to get that stuff safely apart and clean it all up and paint it and put together with all the new stuff.

It depends what quality of parts you use. I'm in the middle of rebuilding my front suspension as well. I don't have disassembly pics, but I can take some putting it back together. I did use all Moog parts.

Here is my part/cost list for what I have into it so far:

Idler Arm - MOOG Part # K6247T - $ 43.79
Pitman Arm - MOOG Part # K6143 - $ 30.79
Tie Rod - MOOG Part # ES409LT x2 - $ 30.02
Tie Rod - MOOG Part # ES409RT x2 - $ 30.02
Tie Rod Sleeves - MOOG Part # ES2004S - $ 17.30
Lower Balljoints - MOOG Part # K6117T x2 - $ 43.58
Upper Balljoints - MOOG Part # K6136 x2 - $ 55.58
Rear Shocks - KYB Part # 344072 GR2 x2 - $ 47.58
Front Shocks - KYB Part # 344068 GR2 x2 - $ 45.58
Upper Arm Bushings - MOOG Part # K6138 x2 - $ 22.34
Lower Arm Bushings - MOOG Part # K6137 x2 - $ 28.58
Inner Wheel Bearing - TIMKEN Part # SET6 x2 - $ 10.18 (C10, NON-heavy half)
Outer Wheel Bearing - TIMKEN Part # SET3 x2 - $ 11.40
Inner Wheal Seal - TIMKEN Part # 8871 x2 - $ 2.60 (C10, NON-heavy half)
Swaybar Bushings - MOOG Part # K6169 x2 - $ 14.18 (For 1-1/16" swaybar)
Brake Hose Left - BENDIX Part # 77299 - $ 7.17 (For light duty 1" rotors)
Brake Hose Right - BENDIX Part # 77300 - $ 7.17 (For light duty 1" rotors)
Shop Labor for Bushing Replacement - NO Part - $ 100.00

TOTAL: $547.86

You could definitely do it cheaper, and probably leave out a few parts, but I wanted to do the whole kit-n-kaboodle, with high quality parts.

 

[bluex]

Control arms are back an all braced up.

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My second control arm shaft came in an it was correct. The replacement for the first one that was wrong came as well an guess what, it's wrong to. Amazon won't send another one so they refunded me an I ordered one from rock auto. Hope it's right....