What have you done to your square lately??

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Vbb199

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Oh and on a side note, the old 700r4 from the suburban (the original one) has an entire stripe in its 2nd gear band missing (lol), and a broken accumulator spring (lol again).

I didnt look any deeper into it for now



I think the issue was, i lost 3rd and 4th in that, cant remember.

In its defense, it did have 335,000 miles on it.... she was tired.
 

Kim Burke

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In the spirit of @QBuff02 and @Kim Burke, I’m neck deep in fixing peeling paint.
This would have been 1000% easier if GM could have made their damn paint stick to their cars 30 years ago! Lol
95% of the bulk stripping and sanding is done. Still gotta fix the windshield frame and lead in the holes from the visor, some detail sanding around windows etc, little bondo in the dings, paint the chassis and core support, remove 1 more door panel and back window, about 200’ of seam sealer.....
Yeah just about ready for paint....lol

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I didn’t paint the truck but it got a complete paint job. Mine had dimples, doinks, and dings all over it.
 

Grit dog

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Trans was supposed to be DONE and DONE. Oh well i guess. :rolleyes:

I'm with ya. Seems it's a neverending battle and doesn't matter how old the car is unless it's new w/warranty. Half my problem is, unlike alot of people, I can't stand stuff that "doesn't work". So that makes more work.
And I generally don't half ass repair stuff. If it's going to take 3 times longer than I expected, I'm damn sure not doing it again next month!
 

Vbb199

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I'm with ya. Seems it's a neverending battle and doesn't matter how old the car is unless it's new w/warranty. Half my problem is, unlike alot of people, I can't stand stuff that "doesn't work". So that makes more work.
And I generally don't half ass repair stuff. If it's going to take 3 times longer than I expected, I'm damn sure not doing it again next month!


Im very anal about my vehicles performance and how it functions...
At this juncture i WAS at, i had done my rear end regear and such, trans was good, motor mechanically is sound, front suspension was done, and i had all new tires all the way around
.. i was damn near a completed trustworthy truck... ive been thru fuel system, brakes, etc.

All works as it should, the last on my list was to figure out WTF is up with my ECM's data i pulled.... (weird o2, map kpa, tps ranges, and namely a mysterious high idle)


Yeah well, 1 step forward, 3 steps back.

Guess i will get back to tuning the motor then slapping the 620 cfm tbi on at a later date...
 

QBuff02

I like Big Blocks and I cannot lie
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I did something similar.
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sanded 400 grit first, then 1000 grit(I think?), then sprayed with a Rustoleum 2in1 rattle can. There was a Rose color that was an amazing match. Not perfect.

You can see the top of the left front fender was beaten up by the sun. My truck had a good side and a bad side as well. Stored in an attached carport for 9 years.

See, I think that looks a ton better. I literally hate how the driver side of my truck is 90% and the passenger side is about 45%. I figure for the time being (the next year or so) it will look nicer when driving around and people walk around it and look at it. I don't think i'll mind the different shades under the clear as it should look about 100% better than it does!

In the spirit of @QBuff02 and @Kim Burke, I’m neck deep in fixing peeling paint.
This would have been 1000% easier if GM could have made their damn paint stick to their cars 30 years ago! Lol
95% of the bulk stripping and sanding is done. Still gotta fix the windshield frame and lead in the holes from the visor, some detail sanding around windows etc, little bondo in the dings, paint the chassis and core support, remove 1 more door panel and back window, about 200’ of seam sealer.....
Yeah just about ready for paint....lol

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This is my eventual plan for next winter, strip her down to her guts and start over... floor pans, cab corners, rockers and probably some new outer sheet metal as well. The core of the truck is mostly solid, and now that I've got most of the drivetrain rebuilt and how I want it to be, it's getting time to do the exterior. And that's going to be a winter project as I figure it will take me 4-6 months to complete. I can do the 40-50 hours it's going to take to clean up and re-clear the areas it needs before spring. I don't have the 400-500 hours and the cash to complete the humpty dumpty right now the right way with the addition of an interior color change. So i'm compromising in the meantime. Lol
 

Grit dog

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See, I think that looks a ton better. I literally hate how the driver side of my truck is 90% and the passenger side is about 45%. I figure for the time being (the next year or so) it will look nicer when driving around and people walk around it and look at it. I don't think i'll mind the different shades under the clear as it should look about 100% better than it does!



This is my eventual plan for next winter, strip her down to her guts and start over... floor pans, cab corners, rockers and probably some new outer sheet metal as well. The core of the truck is mostly solid, and now that I've got most of the drivetrain rebuilt and how I want it to be, it's getting time to do the exterior. And that's going to be a winter project as I figure it will take me 4-6 months to complete. I can do the 40-50 hours it's going to take to clean up and re-clear the areas it needs before spring. I don't have the 400-500 hours and the cash to complete the humpty dumpty right now the right way with the addition of an interior color change. So i'm compromising in the meantime. Lol

It totally looks better. And if it's something you drive regularly, it won't make you cringe everytime you walk out and look at it!
The real question is what is under that 2 stage paint?
Presumably it was repainted at some point as I don't think there was a single truck that was 2 stage paint back then, 82 or 86 in my case (although it's kind of muddy, what you read, some models went bc/cc before others, not just trucks).
You said you hit primer under the current basecoat.
The goal is how far do you need to strip it down.
I "thought" my truck was original paint, but had some touch ups (based on overspray in places). What I found was it had been re-primed and re-painted, likely very early in it's life (warranty job maybe?). The original paint is still present in the bed and door jambs etc. But the entire body was sanded to, almost, bare metal. The areas I took down to metal have hints of the original black primer. The "new" paint was a beige primer and single stage top coat. The beige primer is bonded VERY well to it's substrate, but the top coat literally peeled off everywhere with a razor blade. Even though it lasted alot of years with NO paint peeling in real life.
That required me to get rid of ALL of the color coat as it was all suspect and in the end, only a select few random small areas where the top coat actually bonded to the primer properly.

Given that you are dealing with a 2nd or subsequent paint job on your truck, you may get out of stripping all the current basecoat off if its bonded well.
On the upside, when I'm done the truck will not have multiple coats of paint on it and the beige primer was actually fairly thick for what I'm sure was a sand and squirt job, so a good portion of my block sanding is hopefully complete after this round. God willing I can give it one shot 3 coats of primer, block it, sealer coat and be on to paint. Truck is very quite straight already, but I'm this far along, it will be STRAIGHT before I lay the color to it again.
 

RedBeard_83

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The time has come . busy weekend, this weekend. Replacing all my steering and suspension components this weekend and lowering the truck 3frt/4 rear. As well as new rotors/ hubs, wheel bearings and brake pads and completely bleeding the system. Wish me luck

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80BrownK10

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Had an exhaust leak. Needed donut gasket. Studs too rusted ended up pulling manifold . Not I have to get the studs out
 

QBuff02

I like Big Blocks and I cannot lie
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It totally looks better. And if it's something you drive regularly, it won't make you cringe everytime you walk out and look at it!
The real question is what is under that 2 stage paint?
Presumably it was repainted at some point as I don't think there was a single truck that was 2 stage paint back then, 82 or 86 in my case (although it's kind of muddy, what you read, some models went bc/cc before others, not just trucks).
You said you hit primer under the current basecoat.
The goal is how far do you need to strip it down.
I "thought" my truck was original paint, but had some touch ups (based on overspray in places). What I found was it had been re-primed and re-painted, likely very early in it's life (warranty job maybe?). The original paint is still present in the bed and door jambs etc. But the entire body was sanded to, almost, bare metal. The areas I took down to metal have hints of the original black primer. The "new" paint was a beige primer and single stage top coat. The beige primer is bonded VERY well to it's substrate, but the top coat literally peeled off everywhere with a razor blade. Even though it lasted alot of years with NO paint peeling in real life.
That required me to get rid of ALL of the color coat as it was all suspect and in the end, only a select few random small areas where the top coat actually bonded to the primer properly.

Given that you are dealing with a 2nd or subsequent paint job on your truck, you may get out of stripping all the current basecoat off if its bonded well.
On the upside, when I'm done the truck will not have multiple coats of paint on it and the beige primer was actually fairly thick for what I'm sure was a sand and squirt job, so a good portion of my block sanding is hopefully complete after this round. God willing I can give it one shot 3 coats of primer, block it, sealer coat and be on to paint. Truck is very quite straight already, but I'm this far along, it will be STRAIGHT before I lay the color to it again.

The truck was redone about 20 years ago or so by the previous owner, and it doesn't appear to be too bad of a job (at/from the time). Other than the fact the truck sat with the passenger side being beat on and burned down by the afternoon sun for over 4 years straight and burning the clear off it would be 90% on body. I wish it would've been in a garage for that time because I wouldn't be doing any of this touch up. Lol The base is bonded pretty good, so i'm going to scuff it to clean it up and give it something to adhere to and knock down the ridges where the peeling clear meets back to paint and run with it. Sounds like you got real involved, real quick on yours! That's in the works for me, but for now i'm going to get some good practice and make her look purty. Put the lipstick on the pig for a year or so. But, I'm curious to see how yours turns out!
 

Camar068

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10 yrs Air Force
I finally got tired of my blower motor making noise after about a year of constant noise, I went to the parts store and got the new blower motor for about 22.00 dollars , I don't know why I kept waiting , for anyone doing this it's as easy as changing your oil and a level 1 project anyone can do.
Just remove your 6 screws holding the motor and unplug the power wire and remove the unit,
Set on your bench take off the plastic fan assembly by removing the nut and take off with a screwdriver or your hands, clean and reinstall on your new motor ,then just install in the same position it was before ,replace screws and power plug, just be careful to not overtighten the small screws and you can use a nut driver for most of it.

Thanks for the info, I'll take care of mine when the weather gets warmer. Long been sick of the squeal.
 

Camar068

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Ohio finally made the front plate obsolete. It's so nice to be like most other states now, lol.

well damn....one less way to identify "slow ass Ohian" drivers. Anything to teach, no offense, stay in the right lane unless your passing? Damn turds will sit there doing 65 in a 70 in the passing lane when traffic is doing 80.....they won't ******' budge.
 

Catbox

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Didn't do much to it.
But I did take it to go grocery shopping the other day...

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