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Nice to see im not the only guy who writes the dates on parts i change.Got the water pump, overflow tank, upper and lower radiator hoses, radiator cap, and new v-belts installed.
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I have a scary list of things I need to do on my 73/81 C10. I have today and the weekend off, nobody at the shop, just got paid so I can blow $$ on parts, but ... I am procrastinating b/c lack of knowledge, and confidence...
I don't want to start a new thread for any/every question I can't answer with a few searches in the archives here, but I don't want to bog down this thread with a lot of Truck-101 classes. So I'm just gonna write down the major things I need to do and the things I can't figure out about those tasks, and any help or pointers to past answers would be appreciated.
** IF I SHOULD MOVE THIS TO ANOTHER SECTION, PLEASE LET ME KNOW **
[One big problem for me is, I can't watch YouTube videos -- I get motion sick and impatient within 30 seconds. I'm used to writing, it's so much easier to understand for me. And you can search in text. Plus the motion-sick handheld-camera-phone aspect. I appreciate all the people out there who make these videos, I really do....]
Flush cooling system:
It's a gnarly, rusty mess. I think I pretty much got this one. A problem has been that I don't have parking at my apt building, and my work has only one hose bib and it's the opposite corner of the lot from our shop. And we are right by the LA River, so I have to catch every drop of fluid I use and "dispose of responsibly". Hard to get big buckets under my lowered truck.
Install new radiator:
I bought a 4-row rad from a '77 from CList. And new radiator hoses from RockAuto. I'm doing a bench-clean with some Zep CLR. Does anybody have a good shade-tree-procedure for flushing the Trans Oil Cooler in a radiator?
Replace water pump (and thermostat):
I got a new AC Delco replacement pump, and upgraded FelPro gaskests for it. Q -- Do I still need any goop in addition to the gaskets, to get a good seal?
Also -- I currently have no hoses to/from mycabin heater core. I assume AutoStore seels the 5/8 and 3/4 hose by the foot. If I hooked up the feed/return, where exactly on the WPump or manifold does the fitting (1/2" NPT -- 5/8 hose bead) thread in? (New rad has a 3/4" ID fitting for the return line.)
Re-mount P/S pump:
Well, I'm replacing the water pump anyway, PS pump is at a whack angle right now. I have a bearing puller and doing this with front clip removed will be much easier. StillI may need to track down new bolts, the PO mounted it witha hodgepodge of random fasteners.
Fuel Gauge problems:
My fuel gauge reads correctly if the tank is above ~5/8 of a tank. Below that, the needle stops at 5/8. Now, I replaced the sending unit in the tank, and I bench-tested it to see it was reading 0-90 Ohms range. But when I installed it, my gas tank was ... about 5/8 full, so I couldn't tell if that had fixed it.
My buddy and I pulled out a long coil if extra wire that was in the line from the dash to the tank. So now it gets down to ...9/16 full, then stops. The gauge itself, I replaced 2 years ago with a new one from LMC. I've measured the signal at the gauge itself, and it is showing ~47-49 ohms -- correct for the reading.
I can't puzzle why it has that floor of resistance though. If there was some resistive load in-line with the signal, wouldn't that be *addative* with the sending unit resistance. Wouldn't the resistance read from ~45 ohm to ~135 Ohm?
Well It must be some ground fault. So I am going unbolt my bed and slide it back, check electric at the tank, then just run a dedicated ground wire from the battery back there, with stops at the headlights, firewall, dashboard, and taillights. I will report back
Bad rattle on startup and engine knock/tick at idle:
I get a bad double-triple clank like tapping on my oil pan, on startup. The engine ticking may be my fuel line/filter rattling against my valve cover wing bolts. Or it could be a rod, lifter, or other exotic things I am not equipped to fix.
My engine mounts might also be farked. I don't look forwrd to trying to replace them alone.
I've put a vac gauge on the engine, and vac is good except for a regular stuck-valve dip. I will remove the valve covers and look for anything obvious. I will also bang on my exhaust, which is a rusty crappy mess and has one known exhaust leak, I know the whole system needs replaced, maybe loose pipes are rattling....
How much should I spend on a torque wrench, and what is the most useful range to have?
I appreciate all the advice I have picked up here on this forum. I promise to post some pictures to document the stuff I'm trying to get done, and use good keywords to make this stuff easier to find.
BRetty
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iI have other questions, like:
How hard is it to remove then re-install the fender wells up front? Since they only have about 1/3 of the bolts installed that they should have, remove is not hard, but i suspect replacing would be super-awkward.
Does one really need a dashboard?
What is the next part I would need coming off a set of long-tube headers with a 2.5", 3-boly flange? And what is the gasket for it? I just don't know the name of the part? Intermediate pipe?
What is the best way to polish any "brightwork" like my billet grille and headlight bezels?
Thanks,
BR
I remember mine looking just like that last summer.You must be registered for see images attach
Trying to get the interior together. I want to have the truck on the road by October but that might be a bit unrealistic! Still have to finish body work and get the engine back from the machine shop