What did you pay for a square

[sidschev]

picked up my first one $1000 needed rear end rebuilt and had to rewire the plug wires The one with out a bed..
the second one i picked up for $325 it had an engine fire from squirrels nest under hood (women never open hoods) so far all ive had to do is cut out all the burnt wires and put gas in it. she need a brake master cylinder and a new wiper motor (kinda melted ), the radiator has a small leak also needs a fan shroud . But i got her to fire right up after i put a new carb on. the other one burned up to bad to repair. all in all im $500 in it so far and it has a bed

 

[Finkaire]

$10,500 out the door, cost plus $300
I ordered from Val Strough Chevrolet Oakland where I worked. Paid it off on a 3 year loan from Bank of Canton
Stockland shell was $700.

 

[1976dully]

76 C30 5.3 LS four speed. Little scabby but solid. Retirement family project. LMC is close, and we're going to be making a lot of trips there. Gave 4500.

 

[78C10BigTen]

76 C30 5.3 LS four speed. Little scabby but solid. Retirement family project. LMC is close, and we're going to be making a lot of trips there. Gave 4500.

Looks solid!

 

[FireTruck1984]

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[farm truck]

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That's what I have dumped into mine since purchase!

 

[Jawzjeep]

Might as well play. Paid $3,500. 91 burb 1500 Scottsdale with 3/4 axles, 6" lift, old hummer tires, crusty winch bumper and a broken Toreson or Torsen winch. Pretty clean. Axles not as much. Fading clear coat. Not wheeled. I was happy.

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[Grit dog]

When figuring what is a good price to pay, it’s as much about the “market” value for a particular model, which varies greatly, and the “original” stuff condition like wiring and body/rust, as it is what “has” been replaced or is new parts and what “will” need to be replaced and what has been added to it.
The last part, example, if you want a lifted truck, they don’t sell for more or much more than stock but you save $1000 and all the work to install. (If it’s in good shape)
Or an equivalent C10 vs C20, the C10 will be worth more for essentially the same truck. If I when I build a 2wd, since I’d plan to lower it, getting a C20 for cheaper than a C10 makes more sense. Because you can make them look the same unless you’re counting lug nuts…lol.
Also, the market has slowed a BUNCH. Still plenty of know what I gots people trying to sell and the super desirable trucks still go quick and for good money. But prices and demand are definitely back to pre Covid at least.

Buddy has been trying to sell one of the legitimately nicest round eye, verifiable 30k orig mile C20s out there anywhere (unrestored) for about 6 months. Started at $10k. Down to $8k, would probably take 7 as it stands now and no one is interested.
He gave 5k and the truck literally needed nothing and he’s spent basically no money on it and it’s 100% the easiset repaint resto or a daily driver suitable or better than even like @SirRobyn0 truck….but a desireable color ‘77.
I’m just hanging back waiting to maybe grab it from him once he’s really tired of it taking up space….lol.
If it was a C10, same condition, I’ve seen a few of those recently disappear quick with $10-11k asking prices.
Hence my comment about the c10 vs c20 values.

 

[Grit dog]

Then add in that many buyers are as big of idiots as sellers. Or maybe more accurately just uninformed.

 

[Jawzjeep]

Agreed. I got my burb 4 years ago. The market was what I'd call normal then. Now in my area I wouldn't be able to touch it for less than double what I paid.

It was cool to get an already lifted truck but having to replace the 37s and swapping from 17-in to 16.5 rims was way more expensive than getting some stock size tires to throw on. Added around $1500 to the cost to have it drivable. The old Hummer tires had tons of tread but were very very old and weather checked. At the same time I 'had' to swap to the 17's unless I wanted to be struck buying Swampers from here on out. Lots to consider.

 

[SirRobyn0]

When figuring what is a good price to pay, it’s as much about the “market” value for a particular model, which varies greatly, and the “original” stuff condition like wiring and body/rust, as it is what “has” been replaced or is new parts and what “will” need to be replaced and what has been added to it.
The last part, example, if you want a lifted truck, they don’t sell for more or much more than stock but you save $1000 and all the work to install. (If it’s in good shape)
Or an equivalent C10 vs C20, the C10 will be worth more for essentially the same truck. If I when I build a 2wd, since I’d plan to lower it, getting a C20 for cheaper than a C10 makes more sense. Because you can make them look the same unless you’re counting lug nuts…lol.
Also, the market has slowed a BUNCH. Still plenty of know what I gots people trying to sell and the super desirable trucks still go quick and for good money. But prices and demand are definitely back to pre Covid at least.

Buddy has been trying to sell one of the legitimately nicest round eye, verifiable 30k orig mile C20s out there anywhere (unrestored) for about 6 months. Started at $10k. Down to $8k, would probably take 7 as it stands now and no one is interested.
He gave 5k and the truck literally needed nothing and he’s spent basically no money on it and it’s 100% the easiset repaint resto or a daily driver suitable or better than even like @SirRobyn0 truck….but a desireable color ‘77.
I’m just hanging back waiting to maybe grab it from him once he’s really tired of it taking up space….lol.
If it was a C10, same condition, I’ve seen a few of those recently disappear quick with $10-11k asking prices.
Hence my comment about the c10 vs c20 values.

I didn't think tan or cream or whatever shade of off white you want to call my truck. Nicotine stain beige is not my preferred description of the color lol.

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Well I didn't like the color when I bought it but what I've come to love about the color is that it has all the benefits of white, mainly that it reflects heat well, but unlike white, this color is super good at hiding dirt. I think thee running boards, bed rails, and side window deflectors really help make the color much better looking too.

I'll also say value can be in the eye of the buyer, seller or owner. It would take a lot to pry my hands off the steering wheel of my truck, probably many times it's sales value, because it has a greater value to me. And why would I sell it, the serviceability of these old trucks is awesome and as long as they are kepted up, it's near impossible to wear it out.

So to stay on topic I paid $800 for my truck 5 or 6 years ago. It was a steel of a deal and the offer was made only to me after the passing of my friend, his widow is the one that offered it to me at that price. She told me she had no use for the truck but wanted it to go to someone that would take care of it vs getting top dollar. I think I've taken care of the truck pretty good.

 

[Grit dog]

^Fwiw, wasn’t saying your truck was undesirable color. Nor alluding to that. But in general, apples to apples, some color combos are more appealing and for someone who’s making a pretty truck out of it, and especially if they don’t want to tear it apart limb from limb to paint it or want original colors aren’t going after white, FS green, school bus yellow, etc.

 

[SirRobyn0]

^Fwiw, wasn’t saying your truck was undesirable color. Nor alluding to that. But in general, apples to apples, some color combos are more appealing and for someone who’s making a pretty truck out of it, and especially if they don’t want to tear it apart limb from limb to paint it or want original colors aren’t going after white, FS green, school bus yellow, etc.

I did not take it that way at all, but I was serious when I said I did not like the color my truck is initially, but it has grown on me and now I do like it. Kind of like years ago I had a silver Toyota, I thought that was an awful color until I drove it for a while and realized the advantages of silver!

 

[JeffK10America]

$1200 and a 4 hour drive ... one way

 

[78C10BigTen]

$1200 and a 4 hour drive ... one way

I woulda grabbed that! Looks pretty solid.