Vintage air versus LMC A/C Kit

[BlazerDave87]

I see several threads regarding Vintage Air. But before I drop that much on that system, I wanted to see if anyone had used the LMC kit that utilizes the original ductwork, but basically replaces everything else?

I'm not afraid of the work involved, my K5 is an original A/C truck, but the system hasn't held a charge for 5+ years. I'd rather just start over with either of these two systems.

Thanks!

 

[Finkaire]

New compressor, accumulator and hoses, long as the compressor didn’t lunch you might be in good shape. OE is a good system and I believe you might loose your fresh air with the AF system. My 2 cents

 

[yevgenievich]

I prefer factory setup if already equipped and mostly complete on these trucks. But still would have to check all parts and service as needed

 

[Finkaire]

Important:
If you decide to use the OE system and for anybody out there considering retrofit to 134a. Use an Ester Oil not PAG, PAG oil is a corrosive and will take out the evaporator.
FYI

 

[Craig 85]

My system is OEM except for the Sanden compressor and custom lines. Works great. FYI I replaced everything in the system prior to install.

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[JoeR Jr]

The OEM ventilation system is a lot better than the add-on ones. OEM blends in outside air to control temperature, which gives you better temp control and helps get moisture out of the truck. It makes a big difference when you're trying to clear condensation off the windows.
I put a Vintage air system in my truck. It definitely beats having no AC, but I definitely prefer OEM AC systems.
Joe

 

[BlazerDave87]

Thanks for the insight everyone.
Craig 85, when you say that you replaced everything in the system prior to install, what other elements are you talking about other than the Compressor, lines and the accumulator?

 

[yevgenievich]

Evaporator worth replacing. Condenser can be flushed or if suspected too dirty, replace or upgrade. Take out hvac box, clean, check things and replace heater core as well if needed

 

[Craig 85]

Thanks for the insight everyone.
Craig 85, when you say that you replaced everything in the system prior to install, what other elements are you talking about other than the Compressor, lines and the accumulator?

Everything except the vacuum lines in the cab. Includes new A/C Controls, all the vacuum pods, the flapper under the outside cowl that reduces fresh air for Max A/C and the felt on the inside flap that directs air to the floor and defrost (photo #3).

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[BlazerDave87]

Thanks! I have already replaced the Heater core, and cleaned everything around it. I replaced the felts, but didn't replace the vacuum pods.
Thanks everyone for your insight!

 

[akchevrolet]

I wish mine was factory ac. I just got a coldmasters inc ac and heat system. Looks like po mighta been tryingto add an after market ac system with stock controls.

 

[Bextreme04]

I just got my AC going while doing a bunch of engine and other work. It hadn't worked since at least when it was parked in 2006. I flushed the A6 compressor really well with an entire bottle of PAG 150, flushed the condenser and evaporator with AC flush and compressed air, replaced the orifice tube with a new blue one, and replaced the lines in the engine bay and the filter/dryer. I wish I had also replaced the condenser with a newer parallel flow type, but it works fine as-is. I also replaced all the O-rings with the newer green R134 compliant ones. Then I vacuumed the system for a few hours and checked for leaks before filling with R134. No issues since.

Important:
If you decide to use the OE system and for anybody out there considering retrofit to 134a. Use an Ester Oil not PAG, PAG oil is a corrosive and will take out the evaporator.
FYI

This is incorrect. PAG is insoluble with R12 and the mineral oil that was used with it. PAG will also have a chemical reaction with water to create an acid that will eat through the metal components in an AC system. That's why you have a filter/dryer and need to vacuum an R134 system for at least 40 minutes before charging the system. It makes all the moisture in the system boil off.

If you can't get the system fully cleaned of the mineral oil(or just don't want to bother with it) then you can/should use the esther oil as it is compatible with both R12 and R134 and will mix with the mineral oil fine. If you are fully and properly switching to R134 by fully cleaning/flushing the system, then use the proper weight PAG for the compressor you are using. Esther oil only comes in one weight and might not be correct for your compressor.