Twitchy steering with a big travel trailer (rear sway bar help?)

[DoubleDingo]

I wonder what e rated tires are out there that are lower in profile?

I'd suggest getting a second set of rims and wrap them in E rated tires for when you are going to tow. Then run the passenger setup when you want to have your passenger car back.

 

[DoubleDingo]

For reference, this was how I bought Crusty Biscuit 10 years ago.

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The PO's son is the one that thought it was the best thing since sliced bread to install passenger tires on the truck. I honestly didn't think anything of it at first. But, when driving at highway speeds it was squirrely as heck, and that was loaded as heavy as you see it in that pic, zero pounds extra, nothing in tow either. Not only that it was a pain to steer.

I then swapped on proper tires and the truck was rock solid, rode better, and steered normal.

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[AuroraGirl]

For reference, this was how I bought Crusty Biscuit 10 years ago.

You must be registered for see images attach

The PO's son is the one that thought it was the best thing since sliced bread to install passenger tires on the truck. I honestly didn't think anything of it at first. But, when driving at highway speeds it was squirrely as heck, and that was loaded as heavy as you see it in that pic, zero pounds extra, nothing in tow either. Not only that it was a pain to steer.

I then swapped on proper tires and the truck was rock solid, rode better, and steered normal.

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how much does it weigh?and what kind of front suspension setup is that?

I have what are essentially the highest rated non LT tires on my f150 in the back, and cheapo walmart P tires on the front
THe thing is all over the road, but what you say may influence me to get a load range C LT tire for the steering tires and see how it does, all else equal

 

[DoubleDingo]

how much does it weigh?and what kind of front suspension setup is that?

I have what are essentially the highest rated non LT tires on my f150 in the back, and cheapo walmart P tires on the front
THe thing is all over the road, but what you say may influence me to get a load range C LT tire for the steering tires and see how it does, all else equal

It's 3,800 pounds and stock 3/4 suspension.

 

[Grit dog]

Lower profile tires are easier to make E rated because the sidewalls are shorter , thats much less that needs stiffening. What size is the tire (the P-metric numbering (P225/65/16, for example)
Depending on how your trailer axles are setup and how you load it, those tires are either under-spec or severely dangerous in this situation

Actually the opposite. The shorter the sidewall the less load capacity all else being equal.

 

[txaggie]

The pirellis I have are an xl load rating of 2535 lbs per tire at a max 50 psi

 

[Grit dog]

thanks!


I have a weigh safe heavy duty distribution hitch that helps me dial in perfectly by weight. The squat is good with the rear air lift air bag system at 65 psi. I’m running some pirelli scorpions at 45 psi (Max 50).

While it’s possible the tires are a contributing factor, first off you didn’t mention trailer sway or wiggle which is where some of the responses are leading.
But your numbers above don’t make sense at all unless you have a VERY nose heavy trailer.
If you need 60psi in the bags on top of 3/4 ton springs AND a wdh properly setup that makes zero sense.
For comparison 60psi is about what it takes to handle 4000lbs in the bed under 3/4 ton truck springs.
And your wdh should largely or completely negate the need for bags.
Those jumping on the tires as the cause doesn’t math out. Assuming a 275/55/20 117 load index tire you’ve got about 2800lbs capacity.
id be surprised if you had more than 5600 lbs on the rear axle. Or the same even if your wdh is doing its job.
IMO you need to check your actual numbers and tire rating and know where you’re at. A lot of speculation here with tires.
However as load rating is largely a function of tire pressure and air volume (yes that’s why low pro = less capacity than taller sidewall profiles.) if you suspect it’s soft tires causing the squirm translating to twitchy steering, just air them up more for a short ride to verify.
You will not hurt anything doing that. I’ve run 1/2 tons a lot with 45-51 psi max tires at the 60-65 psi range to stiffen them up with heavy tongue loads.
Again though your published numbers 60psi airbag and a wdh don’t make sense as stated above.
Another example. Full load bearing toyhauler with a 1500lb plus tongue weight takes about 40 psi to level back up on an avg 3/4 ton.
Another factor, how much towing experience do you have? Is this a problem or just to be expected? What is your basis for comparison?

 

[Grit dog]

The pirellis I have are an xl load rating of 2535 lbs per tire at a max 50 psi

Ok, them are a little softer than I imagined. But not necessarily the issue.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Actually the opposite. The shorter the sidewall the less load capacity all else being equal.

Hmm, I must be thinking of something else then. Thanks for correcting that.
Maybe im thinking about how large diameter low profile tires are expensive, and then when they are rated for load range E they cost even more, and those are what newer vehicles are coming with and people want to put on their vehicles, and I Noticed how the max payload capacity increased on tires the larger (and thus often low profile , but only compared to what trucks used to have on them oem) they got when i worked at the tire place

 

[Bextreme04]

The pirellis I have are an xl load rating of 2535 lbs per tire at a max 50 psi

That should be fine for what you are doing here. A bumper pull trailer on a weight distribution hitch will be adding about 1000lbs max to the vehicle weight. My guess would be that you have not properly set up your hitch and trailer and that is causing the front to be unloaded and twitchy while towing. You probably don't have the weight distribution set up properly and are using the airbags to compensate for the extreme rear end sag. What you SHOULD be doing is taking the whole setup through a scale and setting up the weight distribution properly so that the load is distributed properly between the front and rear axles, or you are going to rip the hitch right off the back when you hit a big enough bump on the highway.

 

[AuroraGirl]

For comparison 60psi is about what it takes to handle 4000lbs in the bed under 3/4 ton truck springs.

OOO. So I probably have too much pressure in my 2005 gmt800 tires? I Think with the warming up they are probably 55psi
BUt 48-53 when it was cooler , while i have at max 300 pounds in the bed/cab and no spare tire

You will not hurt anything doing that. I’ve run 1/2 tons a lot with 45-51 psi max tires at the 60-65 psi range to stiffen them up with heavy tongue loads.

We talking the sidewall spec? Isnt that a little above the safety limit? assuming the tire is saying 50-55psi max, that is. If youre going by what the label says on the truck then nvm

Another factor, how much towing experience do you have? Is this a problem or just to be expected? What is your basis for comparison?

this is a very good question too
While i dont think the tires are a small part of it all, Im glad you agree there is more components and factors than the tires. I think just saying a new set would fix it is being a little too optimistic, esp since that could be a great cost depending on how he decides to get them

 

[legopnuematic]

BUt 48-53

For reference, I run my 2nd gen at 45psi up front and 35 in the rear when not towing. That’s on 35x12.5x17, but ran around the same when I had the approx 33” 4th gen 18” stocks and stock 31” tall tire on stock 16” wheel. All 10ply tires.

Rides pretty good considering.

Towing I’ll put the rear at 45 or so (my towing is typically below 7k lbs for reference). Adjust from there depending on what I’m towing if I need more or less.

 

[AuroraGirl]

The pirellis I have are an xl load rating of 2535 lbs per tire at a max 50 psi

go through and read what me and others have said, and respond to the clarifying questions
But knowing you have the "XL" which is the high end of the P-metric tires load wise I believe, thats a good sign for them tires

 

[AuroraGirl]

For reference, I run my 2nd gen at 45psi up front and 35 in the rear when not towing. That’s on 35x12.5x17, but ran around the same when I had the approx 33” 4th gen 18” stocks and stock 31” tall tire on stock 16” wheel. All 10ply tires.

Rides pretty good considering.

Towing I’ll put the rear at 45 or so (my towing is typically below 7k lbs for reference). Adjust from there depending on what I’m towing if I need more or less.

I think my steering links or ball joints are starting to get unhappy , because if i have less than 50 psi in my front tires its heavy to steer
Or my pump is getting tired(original, just hit 180k, hydroboost too) especially with foot on the brake. quick shot of grease helps them moderately but not much

I do also run more psi at the moment to counter under inflation wear on them But they are pretty close to being even that id start to wear them only in the center id imagine

 

[legopnuematic]

I think my steering links or ball joints are starting to get unhappy , because if i have less than 50 psi in my front tires its heavy to steer
Or my pump is getting tired(original, just hit 180k, hydroboost too) especially with foot on the brake. quick shot of grease helps them moderately but not much

I do also run more psi at the moment to counter under inflation wear on them But they are pretty close to being even that id start to wear them only in the center id imagine

If the tires have/had uneven wear you might be experiencing some tread pull too.

My tire guy recommends an X pattern rotation for trucks. Not sure if other rotation patterns would be better or worse, but I trust his judgment.