The ORD steering box brace should be on EVERY Square Body! There's no bracing or triangulation from the factory, the box just bolts to a single wall frame rail, a GM "it's good enuff" issue. The RAG joint can last 100k, or forever. Seeing play in it is elementary. Titening up the top adjustment bolt is a no-no. It adjusts the internal pre-load and is factory or re-manufacturer set, and if one refers to the shop manual, it's a very fine adjustment and if the think you've titened up the steering, you've really only bound up the two internal gear-shafts. Everyone does it, no one should touch it.
I installed Lares reman boxes in my '84 6.2 3/4 ton Sub and ex'es '95 6.5 3/4 ton. Both had wrong torsion input shaft resulting in too much steering effort. That's desirable in a Trans Am, but I missed my one touch steering for ease of backing up w a trailer. The '95 was even worse! I called them and the guy had the same attitude as the guy that said 3/4 tons were like that new. A guy selling Borg steering box conversions set me on track about the input-torsion spring shaft and how that worked in relation to steering effort. The Lares guy said they put in exactly the same shaft as the factory did, he's so full of it. Next issue w the Lares box was they BOTH had play where the pitman shaft exited the box, clearly evident when moving the steering wheel a few inches back and forth. The ex susequently upgraded to a RedHead box, but that was after she became my ex, so I don't drive the '95 anymore. This hasn't really addressed your issue, but I would say the alignment shop is wearing blinders. A little extra toe in or out (not sure which way) would titen up the steering wander as all vehicles require a bit of drag to prevent twitchiness or wander. I'm sure the toe in-out answer is a simple Google search away.
It always surprises me when a shop can do a tremendous amount of 1st class work and then totally overlook some elementary issue, like the mandatory ORD steering brace. It's $50 and 2-3 hour install. On my Sub I modifyed the little bracket the goes behind-over top of the leaf spring mount. I grinder-cut the bracket to better fit around the spring brace and I believe I cut and welded a little piece of steel for it to be a little stronger, or something. I think I have a video of my mod-install...
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Sorry about the crappy sound, old junky camera.
I think your issue is prolly mis-aligned front springs-axle. You could measure front to back on both sides, you may find the new springs may have the axle locating pins in the wrong spot. Just pull a tape measure between the front and back tires, back of the front tire to front of the back tire, both sides should be identical. I've never seen this problem before unless the vehicle has been in a wreck, I'm just thinking about what was changed, and aftermarket parts may have a manufacturing defect.
Another issue that should be addressed is the rear of the front leaf spring hangers, where they mount to the frame. GM used half inch bolts at the front leaf spring mounts, behind the bumper, and 7/16 bolts (I think?) at the back of the leaf spring where it goes to the frame, under the floor pan. Weak spot, and often times the bolt wears right thru the bushing into the frame bracket. DIY4x4 makes a serious 9/16" bolt upgrade to address this issue. I bought their beautiful parts, but I've never installed it because it's a pretty fair job, but one of my bushings on both my K5 diesel Blazer, and my 3/4 ton diesel Suburban has worn through the bushing and eventually the bolt will break and leave me stranded with the leaf spring up against the frame, not good, I need to get on to this.
http://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17751&cat=250&page=3
So these are my guesses and suggestions, and last thot is the 3/4 ton is identical to the 1/2 to except the 3/4 ton has 8 bolt spindles instead of 6. It's a shame you wasted all the coin on new D44-10 bolt parts when you should have gone w the Dana 60 as part of the swap. The D44-10 bolt would be fine on an S10, but is really another example of GM under-engineering.
If your going to off road, there are front lockers that don't affect steering like the old school GM always pre-loaded clutch plate posi.
So to re-hash, do the ORD brace, measure axle squareness-alignment, consider getting rid of rag-joint and find another alignment shop.
Maybe I'll make a video of my above thots to clarify. Good luck --
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