Springs vs Blocks

[bucket]

I have 8 degree shims in the front, since you cant cut/turn the front (passenger side perch is made into center section). The rear angle is in great shape, the shackle flip did a great job at turning the pinion angle. If anything I have a little too much angle. Bucket has a good idea but the way the spring perches are made on the 14 bolt you cant redrill...
http://yfrog.com/6xdscf2366tj

Ah yes, I forgot about those perches. That was only on the '83-earlier 14 bolts though. I'm pretty sure the later ones are the normal stamped type like on the 10/12 bolts.

 

[85k10383]

14 bolt axles from a truck up to 86 should work under my 85, but what year did the mounting style change for 4WD axles? Was it in 89, or did they stay the same later than that? I'm asking so I know what not to waste time looking at when i go "upgrade shopping" at the junkyard this winter

 

[crazy4offroad]

I'm not sure what you mean? Front axle? Rear axle? Mounting style as in perch width?

 

[85k10383]

Both my axles are ten bolts, front and rear. And yes, I mean things like perch width for doing a cheapie upgrade to 14 bolt axles without having to do any welding. For what my truck is going to be used for the 10 bolts are probably fine, but if I can score something better at the local "u-pull-it" I wouldn't mind the extra insurance.

 

[crazy4offroad]

73-85 3/4-ton trucks have the same perch width as 1/2-ton trucks I believe, 42 1/2". But the 1-ton trucks have 40 1/2" perch width and are more sought after by people with smaller rigs like Jeeps. After 85 I think they changed the pinion pilot bearing size, I think that is the main difference at that year break. I'm not sure how far above 85 the parts similarities stay the same. You may find your answers at the 14-bolt Bible...
http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/index.html
I spent alot of time there reading when I was getting ready to pick mine up.

 

[GothRod]

I'm nearly done with my 3/4 ton swap, the second K5 I've done this to, and its super simple. I got these axles out of an early '77 truck(they still used the D44 & Corp 14 bolt full floater axles til sometime in mid '77 when they switched to 10 bolt front, and somewhere along the line after that they phased in the semi floater 14 bolt w the smaller ring gear...) and so far its been 100% bolt in. I used the 3/4 ton trucks rubber hoses to make the brake lines a bolt in deal and if you pull one at the wrecking yard be sure to grab the top plate & u bolts for the rear end, the axle tube on the 14 bolt is bigger & you will need these items. Steering arm is the same on D44 & 10 bolt so thats not an issue. The rear u-joint is the only other thing that needs addressed, unless you have a factory 4 speed. I went and bought the NAPA 447 conversion u-joint and it didn't fit. After some investigation at NAPA it looks like the 4 spds used the big u-joint like the 3/4 ton trucks. I don't know if this is across the board or not but it was that way on mine(the last one I did I had an auto K5 & 12 bolt rearend & I did have to buy a conversion joint...). I'd try to wait & make sure you get a D44/14bolt full floater combo and not bother with the later 8 lug 10 bolt/14 bolt semi-floater ones. Common gear ratios that I've seen are 3:73, 4:11, & 4:56.

The swap is as easy as lugging two chunks of cast iron out and two chunks into your truck lol! Check out my album to see a shot of my 8 lug frontend in if you want...

-John

 

[HotRodPC]

Good Info Goth. I'll be doing the same to my 85 K10. I already have 2 diffearnt 14bolt FF rears. 1 is out of a 1 ton and is a 4.10 peg legger, the other is out of a CUCV with 4.56 and Detroit Locker. I really prefer to use the CUCV rear 14b ff, but its all gonna come down to which gear ratio I find in the 8 lug front axle. If I get lucky and find one in 4.56, I'll be in bidness, but likley to find the more common 4.10 which will be OK too, since I do intend to have a street/strip 3/4 ton as dumb as that sounds, and I'll use the CUCV in the 2WD street/strip truck.
Onto 1 ton Perch distances. Is it possible that SRW (Single Rear Wheel) 1 ton uses the 42 1/2 inch perch distance as does the 1/2 and 3/4 tons, and then the Dual Rear Wheel 1 tons use the 40 1/2 spring perch distance? Honestly, I don't even know if there is a differance in the 1 ton perches for SRW or DRW.

 

[crazy4offroad]

From the 14-bolt Bible ( http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/index.html )

"1-tons feature 40.5" perch spacing - whether C&C or pickup, whether SRW or DRW. 3/4-ton is 42.5" spacing."

That info was found a little more than half way down the page.

 

[bucket]

Yes, the SRW 1tons have the same spacing as the others. Also, it is not hard to use the 1ton spring hangers and shock mounts to make the axle bolt right in. Except on my burb, there was not clearance for the right upper shock mount because of the fuel tank. All I did was cut the mount off the axle, then weld it to the front of the axle tube (like the left side), and mount the shock on that side.

 

[throttleissues]

Axles swap directly from 1/2 and 3/4 ton pickups up to '87, and blazer/suburban up to '91 into any 1/2 and 3/4 tons back to 73. The only perch spacing difference you'll find is for the 1tons. I have been lucky and gotten a K20 and K35 that are both 4.56 factory gears, but the K20 has a Gov-lok.

 

[GreaseDog]

Ah yes, I forgot about those perches. That was only on the '83-earlier 14 bolts though. I'm pretty sure the later ones are the normal stamped type like on the 10/12 bolts.

my 94 14FF has cast perches...

 

[bucket]

my 94 14FF has cast perches...

Hmm, I guess it is hit and miss. I know I have seen them with stamped though.

 

[HotRodPC]

One more thing though, if I were you, I'd ditch the body lift. I have never really trusted body lifts. I had a friend that had a Jeep Wagoneer with a 3" body lift on it. One day we were going down an old, old overgrown logging trail in the Sierra's when he hit a log that was partially buried laying across the road. When he hit it, his truck stopped, but the body didn't. It shifted forward about 4" or 5" and did a lot of damage.

I think I am for ditching the body lift too. I want all my lift to be in the suspendion on my 85 K10. I was even considering a cab and bed swap and thought what a great time to add just a 2 inch body lift. But I think I am going to pass on it. I can certainly see how a body lift will certainly disrupt the integeritly of the vehicle. Especially in the bed if you intend to carry any kind of weight at all. The body would acutally be sitting on small donuts and thats it. I'd think it would be much stronger supported and sitting on the frame and full bushings for the cab. JMO, dunno, have NOT had alot of experience in this area. I am sure its probably OK if you don't intend to carry alot of weight or just looking for the "LOOK" instead of functional. I still want my K10 to be very functional, so passing on the body lift. I'll probably go with a 4 or 6 inch suspension lift and call it good. And I don't want to use blocks in the rear either. Crazy's idea of the shackle flip in the rear is something I'll be looking into though, along with useing 52in rear springs up front. Still want to do the budget build, but still want safe and very functional, along with some comfort too. Hoping to have all of the above.

 

[crazy4offroad]

I've seen where people do most of their lift with suspension parts and if they needed to gain an inch or two to clear the next size taller tire, they use hockey pucks. In my opinion if I needed another inch or 2 to clear 42s (the next size I'm looking at after 38s) I would do the hockey puck lift. They are cheap, solid rubber, have a much bigger footprint than an aftermarket body lift, and if you do it right with some tubing through the bolt hole to help protect and support it, it will be even better than an aftermarket BL.

 

[burbdood]

The main problem I have with body lifts besides not trusting them is the fact that when you put one on, you're not doing anything to strengthen or upgrade the suspension in any way. Then when you throw on bigger tires and beat the snot out of the truck, you're bound to get some carnage involved. So in the end, you're running, say, 35's on stock equipment.

I think if I were looking for 1" or 2" extra lift to clear bigger tires, I'd go with an add-a-leaf or a zero rate instead of lifting the body off the frame.