Springs vs Blocks

[GothRod]

I have 5 1/2" blocks in the back of my K5. Never had a problem, but I'm gonna make a traction bar setup for it anyways. When I was looking at lifts the best place by far as far as pricing is Ebay. Just search "73-87 chevy 4" lift" and it should pop up with a bunch of Ebay stores selling them.

I second the shackle flip, I wish I did that on mine.

-John

 

[GothRod]

I just went over to the 'Bay to test my theory. 1st thing that popped up-

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/73-8...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cf0c1821c

$350+ship(only $44 to me...)

-John

 

[crazy4offroad]

When looking for soft riding springs look for ones that have a nice 2-way taper on the ends. Springs that are cut relatively square ride like a chuckwagon. I bought my 6" kit second hand so I have no idea who manufactured it but the ends of the leaves have a nice long taper and ride sweet. I've also heard of people swapping in the rear 52" springs into the front, netting about 4" over the flat or sometimes reverse-arched stock springs, while maintaining a soft ride and better articulation due to the longer spring.

 

[Swims350]

man did the raise the kit price? I bought the same rough country kit as above but from jcwhitney, had the arm, front springs, rear blocks, shocks, boots everything and it was $300 and free shipping on orders over a hundred or so.

 

[GothRod]

When looking for soft riding springs look for ones that have a nice 2-way taper on the ends. Springs that are cut relatively square ride like a chuckwagon. I bought my 6" kit second hand so I have no idea who manufactured it but the ends of the leaves have a nice long taper and ride sweet. I've also heard of people swapping in the rear 52" springs into the front, netting about 4" over the flat or sometimes reverse-arched stock springs, while maintaining a soft ride and better articulation due to the longer spring.

I traded for my "8 inch" lift and the guy didn't know who made it either. After cleaning off the dirt I saw a PN. 15 seconds on Google and I found it to be a Pro-Comp 6" spring set. Might work for you if you can find a number...

-John

 

[lar300mag]

I used Tuff Country Springs, they are supposed to have the softest spring rate.
http://www.tuffcountry.com/products/leaf-springs.html
I used a 6" 63" long from a 200o and later Chevy and an Offroad Design shackle flip for the rear and 52" (73-87 rear) 6" lift with the B-52 spring hanger from DIY4X. the set up is unbelievable. Soft ride and flexes great. For a 4" lift use a set of rear factory springs for the front, here is a write up. http://coloradok5.com/52inchspringswap.shtml

 

[85k10383]

Hey thanks a million guys! Lots of really great info. I had thought that a shackle flip would be the best thing for a start also. And having just removed the radiator support on my 85 I second the opinion on body lifts. The rusty sheetmetal and stout plastic blocks look like a disaster in the making. Come spring I will probably get a combo of a flip kit and a four inch susp. lift and do away with the body lift. Now can one of you explain what a "zero rate" does? Is it for correcting pinion angle? No
I guess that is what you drop the transfer case for right?

 

[bucket]

A "zero rate" is a thick add-a-leaf that is really short, so it doesn't change the spring rate. It basically is just a 1" block that bolts to the spring pack, and is acceptable to use in the front (although I never will).

 

[85k10383]

And the reason you never ever use blocks in the front is that they can't handle torsional stress (like from steering) correct? Thanks for that BTW, I have wanted to know what they were for forever!

 

[Swims350]

not to mention they will let you move the axle front or back an inch.

But front blocks, other then zero rates, front blocks are ILLEGAL in EVERY state.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Zero rate AALs also have other offset holes for relocating the axle forward or back either 1" or 1 1/2" which sometimes seems to be necessary with 6" or more of lift. I will be adjusting my front axle forward and the rear axle back whenever I do the 14 bolt swap. I looked at a pic my mom took of the truck when I used it to pull down some trees and it is obvious the axles need to move...
http://a.imageshack.us/img213/3112/axles.jpg

EDIT: damn swims, you beat me to it lol

 

[bucket]

You can also simply re-drill the perches to move the axle forward or back. I just don't trust even a zero rate in the front because even though they bolt in, they still add leverage. The rear is more than fine though.

 

[85k10383]

So the taller you go the shorter the wheelbase gets! LOL Crazy what have you done with your pinion angles at that height?

 

[crazy4offroad]

I have 8 degree shims in the front, since you cant cut/turn the front (passenger side perch is made into center section). The rear angle is in great shape, the shackle flip did a great job at turning the pinion angle. If anything I have a little too much angle. Bucket has a good idea but the way the spring perches are made on the 14 bolt you cant redrill...
http://yfrog.com/6xdscf2366tj

 

[Swims350]

lol it's cool you guys know more about it then I do.

I'll admit I only done one lift in my lift and that was on the 86 k10 we had and I want to do one on my 88