Speaker pods/General stereo questions

[scenic760]

A sound system will quickly drain a battery if the truck isn't running. So account for that.

I bet...just looking at the draw of that amp I'm wondering if with the truck RUNNING it is going to be an issue?!

Can I simply add another battery for the alternator to charge just for capacity or do I need to wire in relays/switches/etc?

 

[Catbox]

You should be just fine at those power levels with what you are proposing to run.

Those little speakers will only pull what they can.
They will pop well before you need to start adding capacity to the charging system.

 

[Rusty Nail]

With all due respect;

I consider 4x3.5s in the dash of squarebody truck a "sound" investment and a fine foundation upon which to build, especially starting out low budget.
You'll get spoiled pretty quick and that's a great, easy place to start improvements.
If you decide to put speakers in the doors or the "kick panels" - they don't call them that for nothin. 4 speakers I the dash sounds awesome, requires little power, and are trouble free. A fantastic upgrade!
Ever wonder why car makers don't put them there if it's such a great idea?
It's not for everyone.

Rather than considering adding another battery, you may find valuable information researching car audio capacitors. BOSS makes pretty good ones.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Ive never ran a capacitor. When I was more heavy into car audio, I watched the big guys on YouTube, and never did I see a capacitor. If you truly want good clean power you need an alternator upgrade and more batteries.

 

[Rusty Nail]

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They are less than 50 bucks and you probably don't even need one.

 

[scenic760]

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They are less than 50 bucks and you probably don't even need one.

Knocking the cobwebs off, I vaguely remember doing this in my Mustang! I like it!

 

[WP29P4A]

I was all with you up until you said to mount the amp to the sub box.

That is how amps eventually die.
It has the ability to break the small connections on the insides of the amp loose and suddenly you let the smoke out.

Ideally you want to mount the amp to the vehicle in a way it will not be shaken to death by all the excellent power it puts out.

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We have to keep all these little goodies tight to the board for many years of clean power.
This is a quite old Eclipse four channel amp in my stash of goodies.
I plan to use this one to power the speakers in my truck one of these days.

Due to the fact that all powered subwoofers have the amp built into the box, logic dictates that you are not correct. Based on the fact that I have NEVER (in 30 + years) had to replace a bad sub due to the driver being bad, the amplifier is always the part that fails, says you are CORRECT.

 

[Catbox]

Due to the fact that all powered subwoofers have the amp built into the box, logic dictates that you are not correct. Based on the fact that I have NEVER (in 30 + years) had to replace a bad sub due to the driver being bad, the amplifier is always the part that fails, says you are CORRECT.

Not trying to argue with you, but, I would think that a powered subwoofer amplifier would be built to withstand the environment that it has been designed to live in.

Traditional amplifiers may not be built the same as those designed to be incorporated within the box.
I just know those little tiny solders that hold the components to the board can and will snap causing issues.
I have sent 5 amps in for repair and the common issue was component failure with broken soldered joints.

If you have no other place to mount your amp, go for it.
Mount it on the box and it will work just fine.
I am not sure where the bad sub comparison came from.

 

[scenic760]

Ok…I’m about to run some stereo wires! 1 1/2 year later ain’t bad?!

Question- I have a tote bin full of RCA cables from various home theater configuration over the years.. can I use these for head unit to amp connection?

I know they won’t be as flexible as automotive but I think in this application they are going right down the middle hump to under the seat amp so shouldn’t matter?

I did read an article on twisted pair vs coaxial and to be honest just got more confused as to whether or not I could/should use them…gotta love the internet!

 

[Scott91370]

You can. If you're not competing it'll be fine.
Best thing to do is run your power wires as far from them as you can to keep noise down.

 

[Sad Sack]

In my 85 C15 I used $30 Kenwood KFC-835C 3.5-inch Round Car Speakers for dash replacements due to low height which didn't cause any dash pad bulging using the top mount stock brackets and they have nice quality sound. The stock lower cab corners use 4x10s and brackets are readily available thru a third party like LMC which I installed $45 Cerwin Vega HED Series 4"x10" 2-Way Coaxial Car Speakers. Mounting holes may already be pre-drilled for these brackets in your truck. I then used foam buckets on the 4x10s to lighten the bass and eliminate corner feedback since I am already employing a AIO 400 RMS watt sub setup behind seat. Absolutely no fit issues. $89 KENWOOD KDC-BT35 Radio and speakers RMS ratings are aligned. Nice budget system using all new items for under $175 and my electrical system with a 78 amp alternator has no issues with this setup. Your main concern is your "Big Three > Alt, Battery Wire". A good rule of thumb is knowing your amp rating on your alternator, times it by 10 (say 80 amp alt you can max your system near 800 watts of RMS power) and that will let you know your limit on total amplifier wattage which you will apply to your wiring and battery, always stay under since the vehicle has other electronics pulling juice. If ya like pulsating headlights and frying alternators from trying to keep the battery charged, go gung-ho. When using RCA cables, go shielded. I've done a few systems and never needed a capacitor when adhering to these stated items of concern.

 

[CalSgt]

You can. If you're not competing it'll be fine.
Best thing to do is run your power wires as far from them as you can to keep noise down.

^^^^ This

Home theater patch cables often times do not have as much RF shielding which causes them to be slightly susceptible to RF ingress/egress. Other than the shielding most of the home stuff doesn't have as much insulation (padding) which may make them more susceptible to damage from abrasion etc.

Run any power, ground, remote turn on, and speaker wiring away from your patch cables. If they need to cross each other try to do so at perpendicular angles.

If you can hear interference through the amp you will likely need to replace them with a better RFI shielded set, and/or ensure the engine/body/chassis grounds are good, add a small capacitor.

 

[scenic760]

^^^^ This

Home theater patch cables often times do not have as much RF shielding which causes them to be slightly susceptible to RF ingress/egress. Other than the shielding most of the home stuff doesn't have as much insulation (padding) which may make them more susceptible to damage from abrasion etc.

Run any power, ground, remote turn on, and speaker wiring away from your patch cables. If they need to cross each other try to do so at perpendicular angles.

If you can hear interference through the amp you will likely need to replace them with a better RFI shielded set, and/or ensure the engine/body/chassis grounds are good, add a small capacitor.

In my 85 C15 I used $30 Kenwood KFC-835C 3.5-inch Round Car Speakers for dash replacements due to low height which didn't cause any dash pad bulging using the top mount stock brackets and they have nice quality sound. The stock lower cab corners use 4x10s and brackets are readily available thru a third party like LMC which I installed $45 Cerwin Vega HED Series 4"x10" 2-Way Coaxial Car Speakers. Mounting holes may already be pre-drilled for these brackets in your truck. I then used foam buckets on the 4x10s to lighten the bass and eliminate corner feedback since I am already employing a AIO 400 RMS watt sub setup behind seat. Absolutely no fit issues. $89 KENWOOD KDC-BT35 Radio and speakers RMS ratings are aligned. Nice budget system using all new items for under $175 and my electrical system with a 78 amp alternator has no issues with this setup. Your main concern is your "Big Three > Alt, Battery Wire". A good rule of thumb is knowing your amp rating on your alternator, times it by 10 (say 80 amp alt you can max your system near 800 watts of RMS power) and that will let you know your limit on total amplifier wattage which you will apply to your wiring and battery, always stay under since the vehicle has other electronics pulling juice. If ya like pulsating headlights and frying alternators from trying to keep the battery charged, go gung-ho. When using RCA cables, go shielded. I've done a few systems and never needed a capacitor when adhering to these stated items of concern.

All great info, much appreciated!!! I am putting those same 4x10's in the stock location as well..how do they sound?

Is there any way to test the cables for proper shielding before installing them or installing them and running it IS the testing procedure?

 

[Sad Sack]

The items description should state shielded but do your research first. All kinds on Amazon like "GearIT"

Amazon.com