Speaker pods/General stereo questions

[scenic760]

A sound system will quickly drain a battery if the truck isn't running. So account for that.

I bet...just looking at the draw of that amp I'm wondering if with the truck RUNNING it is going to be an issue?!

Can I simply add another battery for the alternator to charge just for capacity or do I need to wire in relays/switches/etc?

 

[Catbox]

You should be just fine at those power levels with what you are proposing to run.

Those little speakers will only pull what they can.
They will pop well before you need to start adding capacity to the charging system.

 

[Rusty Nail]

With all due respect;

I consider 4x3.5s in the dash of squarebody truck a "sound" investment and a fine foundation upon which to build, especially starting out low budget.
You'll get spoiled pretty quick and that's a great, easy place to start improvements.
If you decide to put speakers in the doors or the "kick panels" - they don't call them that for nothin. 4 speakers I the dash sounds awesome, requires little power, and are trouble free. A fantastic upgrade!
Ever wonder why car makers don't put them there if it's such a great idea?
It's not for everyone.

Rather than considering adding another battery, you may find valuable information researching car audio capacitors. BOSS makes pretty good ones.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Ive never ran a capacitor. When I was more heavy into car audio, I watched the big guys on YouTube, and never did I see a capacitor. If you truly want good clean power you need an alternator upgrade and more batteries.

 

[Rusty Nail]

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They are less than 50 bucks and you probably don't even need one.

 

[scenic760]

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They are less than 50 bucks and you probably don't even need one.

Knocking the cobwebs off, I vaguely remember doing this in my Mustang! I like it!

 

[WP29P4A]

I was all with you up until you said to mount the amp to the sub box.

That is how amps eventually die.
It has the ability to break the small connections on the insides of the amp loose and suddenly you let the smoke out.

Ideally you want to mount the amp to the vehicle in a way it will not be shaken to death by all the excellent power it puts out.

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We have to keep all these little goodies tight to the board for many years of clean power.
This is a quite old Eclipse four channel amp in my stash of goodies.
I plan to use this one to power the speakers in my truck one of these days.

Due to the fact that all powered subwoofers have the amp built into the box, logic dictates that you are not correct. Based on the fact that I have NEVER (in 30 + years) had to replace a bad sub due to the driver being bad, the amplifier is always the part that fails, says you are CORRECT.

 

[Catbox]

Due to the fact that all powered subwoofers have the amp built into the box, logic dictates that you are not correct. Based on the fact that I have NEVER (in 30 + years) had to replace a bad sub due to the driver being bad, the amplifier is always the part that fails, says you are CORRECT.

Not trying to argue with you, but, I would think that a powered subwoofer amplifier would be built to withstand the environment that it has been designed to live in.

Traditional amplifiers may not be built the same as those designed to be incorporated within the box.
I just know those little tiny solders that hold the components to the board can and will snap causing issues.
I have sent 5 amps in for repair and the common issue was component failure with broken soldered joints.

If you have no other place to mount your amp, go for it.
Mount it on the box and it will work just fine.
I am not sure where the bad sub comparison came from.