Speaker pods/General stereo questions

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Rusty Nail

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Well, if you buy that amp BNIB that could be a lot of fun playing with it. Maybe the instruction manual is available online?
I bet they have some sort of "tech hotline" and they could give you advice or suggestions about how to wire it. It's NOT hard.
 
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scenic760

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@scenic760 , imagination and funds is the limit with this stuff. When Easton wanted to do stereo I took a backseat. He spent 1K on amazon and got a great system that we can hear when he drives in the neighborhood. Never understood 1500 watt amp for a standard cab truck but what do dads know anyway. He put dual Chanel speaker in dash and just 6X9’s behind the seat and the enormous sub behind seat. He loves it !
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Hey Randy, any idea what the dimensions on that amp are? I did a cardboard mock up of the one I was looking at (23x7x3) and it doesn't look like its going to fit under the seat....although I doesn't have the seats at the moment it looks too tall at 3" and too long at 23"
 

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Skar is a fine enough amp, loads of people use them.
Stay away from too good to be true stuff with inflated power numbers.

Always consult the reviews and what I like to do is look for a review on YouTube from Williston Audio Labs.
He runs them on the dyno to see if they are able to put out the rated numbers.

I have found with car audio, you are listening to how well the amp can control the speakers.
Not how well the speakers put out the sound.
If the signal the amp puts out is crap, the sound out of the speaker is going to be crap.
 

PrairieDrifter

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Skar and crescendo audio are good. I use a crescendo 1500 watt for my 15, it's been working great. Rockford has decent amps but high priced imo.

Make sure you properly tune your amps. You'll have a max volume where your head unit will start clipping(max clean output) I have a steve Meade tuner, it's basically a simplified oscilloscope, it just tells you when the signal gets dirty with a simple light. Quick and easy, comes with some frequency cd's so you'll need a disc changer, or need to find the proper frequencies online and Bluetooth.
 

Randy and Easton

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@scenic760 I can’t find the box. Easton is not around. i would say his amp was 12” long 6” wide and 2” high and fit great under seat. I fabricated some aluminum mounts that I screwed to floor so amp would have air circulation around it, not sure that makes any difference but it looked cool…

let me know if you need anything else
 

scenic760

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@scenic760 I can’t find the box. Easton is not around. i would say his amp was 12” long 6” wide and 2” high and fit great under seat. I fabricated some aluminum mounts that I screwed to floor so amp would have air circulation around it, not sure that makes any difference but it looked cool…

let me know if you need anything else
Thanks Randy!

I picked up this amp as it looked like the best fit for my sitch..

Another technical question....I'm assuming as long as I hook up speakers between 2-8 ohms the amp will automatically "see" the correct impedance and adjust current accordingly?

I guess the reason I ask is because my plan is to hookup the 4 front 3.5" speakers in parallel, 2 on each channel, which would produce about 2 ohms (?) Each speaker would receive 50w?

On the back, each speaker on its own channel would be 4 ohms so 75w each and then the sub at 2ohms would get 600w?

I could also select 4 ohm for the sub if that's too much wattage on 250RMS but I heard a sealed box needs a little more power to function properly?

Does the amp care if the impedance is different on each channel?

THANKS AGAIN!
 

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Rusty Nail

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Looking at this, one is left to assume that 4 ohm amp power is your only choice out of channel 5 - and there is nothing wrong with that. Especially with a single voice coil 4 ohm woofer - that's likely your best bet.

Again I know very little about that amp, like how the power to channel 5 is sourced.
I know it comes with a "Bass Boost" knob , which is likely an independent gain for channel 5, however.
I don't forsee anything wrong with your plan. Parallel wiring in this instance reduces the resistance of the speakers- not increase the output of the amp when wired +to+ and -to-.
The result is the working temp of the speakers will increase, the distortion level of the speakers increases, the volume of the speakers will increase, and that is done at THEIR expense to spare the amplifier from having to output more power and increase ITS' working temp and distortion.
The 3 inch speakers will see a 2.5 or 2.6 ohm load I think. There is a formula.
If your speakers are good it won't blow them up by separating the voice coils from the magnet. Those Cerwin Vegas are by no means a competition grade unit and I imagine short trips at a moderate volume won't hurt them.
Only one way to find out short of contacting Cerwin Vega.
Again, your due diligence or lack of is not my problem. I'm a stranger on the other side of the internet.

In all things, including car audio, you get what you pay for and the sky is the limit.
Those speakers and amp are low budget and I expect a similar level of performance. Granted to a guy like you that appears to be shooting from the hip and likely doesn't claim to be an audiophile persay, you may not know any difference between Cerwin Vegas or something extremely high-end LIKE Boston Acoustics or similar.. It's not a competition grade system by any means BUT! You will probably love the crap out of it and think it sounds awesome. At the end of the day you'll still have money in your pocket and every trip to work,home,or to the store will put a big shi*-eating grin on your face and you prolly ain't never had it that good.
**Warning!**
An externally amplified car audio system WILL SET a precedent that you may never get away from. Every factory stereo is gonna suck balls - you'll see.

By the time you tune it out between front/back/ and sub it'll probably sound pretty great. ESPECIALLY! compared to what you're running now.

Run at least 4awg power and ground If not bigger. Make the ground as short as is reasonably possible and secure it to bare metal with bare metal. The further away you keep the speaker wires away from those? the better it will sound.
Butt connectors are NOT your friend in car audio BTW. The devil is in the details and so is sound quality. Think solder and heat shrink.

Hope this helps, and good luck!

P.s. = take pix.

Check out this cool old Tshirt I have. The finals were in Tulsa,Oklahoma. I competed in a G body (Monte Carlo) with 12 speakers and three ORION amps in the 250 watt NOVICE class. Took 7th place out of 42 making about 800 watts running 4x12" ORION XTRs. I was barely 17 and was sponsored by the place I worked at - called Traffic Jams Audio, which was owned by two brothers Lee and Larry Lawyer - that were cops.

The system was destroyed by a jacked up Chevrolet 4x4 that drove over my trunk.
:waytogo:
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scenic760

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Looking at this, one is left to assume that 4 ohm amp power is your only choice out of channel 5 - and there is nothing wrong with that. Especially with a single voice coil 4 ohm woofer - that's likely your best bet.

Again I know very little about that amp, like how the power to channel 5 is sourced.
I know it comes with a "Bass Boost" knob , which is likely an independent gain for channel 5, however.
I don't forsee anything wrong with your plan. Parallel wiring in this instance reduces the resistance of the speakers- not increase the output of the amp when wired +to+ and -to-.
The result is the working temp of the speakers will increase, the distortion level of the speakers increases, the volume of the speakers will increase, and that is done at THEIR expense to spare the amplifier from having to output more power and increase ITS' working temp and distortion.
The 3 inch speakers will see a 2.5 or 2.6 ohm load I think. There is a formula.
If your speakers are good it won't blow them up by separating the voice coils from the magnet. Those Cerwin Vegas are by no means a competition grade unit and I imagine short trips at a moderate volume won't hurt them.
Only one way to find out short of contacting Cerwin Vega.
Again, your due diligence or lack of is not my problem. I'm a stranger on the other side of the internet.

In all things, including car audio, you get what you pay for and the sky is the limit.
Those speakers and amp are low budget and I expect a similar level of performance. Granted to a guy like you that appears to be shooting from the hip and likely doesn't claim to be an audiophile persay, you may not know any difference between Cerwin Vegas or something extremely high-end LIKE Boston Acoustics or similar.. It's not a competition grade system by any means BUT! You will probably love the crap out of it and think it sounds awesome. At the end of the day you'll still have money in your pocket and every trip to work,home,or to the store will put a big shi*-eating grin on your face and you prolly ain't never had it that good.
**Warning!**
An externally amplified car audio system WILL SET a precedent that you may never get away from. Every factory stereo is gonna suck balls - you'll see.

By the time you tune it out between front/back/ and sub it'll probably sound pretty great. ESPECIALLY! compared to what you're running now.

Run at least 4awg power and ground If not bigger. Make the ground as short as is reasonably possible and secure it to bare metal with bare metal. The further away you keep the speaker wires away from those? the better it will sound.
Butt connectors are NOT your friend in car audio BTW. The devil is in the details and so is sound quality. Think solder and heat shrink.

Hope this helps, and good luck!

P.s. = take pix.

Check out this cool old Tshirt I have. The finals were in Tulsa,Oklahoma. I competed in a G body (Monte Carlo) with 12 speakers and three ORION amps in the 250 watt NOVICE class. Took 7th place out of 42 making about 800 watts running 4x12" ORION XTRs. I was barely 17 and was sponsored by the place I worked at - called Traffic Jams Audio, which was owned by two brothers Lee and Larry Lawyer - that were cops.

The system was destroyed by a jacked up Chevrolet 4x4 that drove over my trunk.
:waytogo:
You must be registered for see images attach
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I appreciate all the advice! You are correct, I am nowhere near an audiophile but would like some relatively clean tunes watching the sunset from the tailgate!

I actually did have to call Cerwin Vega because the 3.5" speakers had 3 different RMS ratings..25w on the website description, 30w in the specs page and 40w on the box! I was impressed as they answered the phone right away and the guy knew exactly the speaker I was talking about and told me it was 30w..he double checked with the engineering dept too...

A friend of mine (lost touch 30 years ago) used to compete in those competitions as well...he said he used to pull up in an oxidized 4 door Mazda 626 and blow everyone away because of, exactly as you said, DETAILS!

I just got some of these connectors to use and I needed to repair a broken landscape light and they seemed to work well!
 

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Camar068

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I guess the reason I ask is because my plan is to hookup the 4 front 3.5" speakers in parallel, 2 on each channel, which would produce about 2 ohms (?)
Resistance in parallel with only 2 resistors/loads = R1 X R2/R1 + R2. 16/8 =2, so yes 2 ohms.
 

PrairieDrifter

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I appreciate all the advice! You are correct, I am nowhere near an audiophile but would like some relatively clean tunes watching the sunset from the tailgate!

I actually did have to call Cerwin Vega because the 3.5" speakers had 3 different RMS ratings..25w on the website description, 30w in the specs page and 40w on the box! I was impressed as they answered the phone right away and the guy knew exactly the speaker I was talking about and told me it was 30w..he double checked with the engineering dept too...

A friend of mine (lost touch 30 years ago) used to compete in those competitions as well...he said he used to pull up in an oxidized 4 door Mazda 626 and blow everyone away because of, exactly as you said, DETAILS!

I just got some of these connectors to use and I needed to repair a broken landscape light and they seemed to work well!
A sound system will quickly drain a battery if the truck isn't running. So account for that.
 

Scribbles

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I hear ya...do you think the kick panel speakers are good bang for the buck or I would be good with the 2 3.5" and the center channel in the dash? On the rear 4x10's is it that much of an upgrade to drop 6x9's in?
It will sound way better with the speakers in the kicks, do not even bother with the center dash speakers unless you are running a digital signal processor.
4 speakers 2 in kicks, 2 in rear doors and a sub will be great.
If you have any questions I'd be glad to help. I have been an audio installer for 30 years at a shop that does basic to insane SEMA builds.
 

scenic760

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It will sound way better with the speakers in the kicks, do not even bother with the center dash speakers unless you are running a digital signal processor.
4 speakers 2 in kicks, 2 in rear doors and a sub will be great.
If you have any questions I'd be glad to help. I have been an audio installer for 30 years at a shop that does basic to insane SEMA builds.
I appreciate it Scribbles!

I'm fairly committed at this point with the four 3.5" in the dash, the 4x10 rears and a 12" sealed sub...I have 96sf of Kilmat to spread around too so hopefully that helps my acoustics a bit.

I'm not listening to classical music but would like some reasonable representation of the way it's supposed to sound...Hendrix moving left to right on the speakers brings back a lot of memories, throw in some Gypsy Kings and life is good
 

Randy and Easton

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Well @scenic760 , @Rusty Nail and @Scribbles have a ton more background than me and my kid combined. I will just say that E has about 1K in the system and you can hear him turning into the neighborhood and he loves it…Kids!

sounds like you have a great plan! I will say of all the things we did with his truck, we are most proud of the sound system as I had never done anything like this before with the direct wire off battery and the fuse and big amp, challenging but absolutely cool once we finished. Not professional, but he loves it.
 

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scenic760

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Well @scenic760 , @Rusty Nail and @Scribbles have a ton more background than me and my kid combined. I will just say that E has about 1K in the system and you can hear him turning into the neighborhood and he loves it…Kids!

sounds like you have a great plan! I will say of all the things we did with his truck, we are most proud of the sound system as I had never done anything like this before with the direct wire off battery and the fuse and big amp, challenging but absolutely cool once we finished. Not professional, but he loves it.
That's a clean install I think! One of things that gets underestimated is the knowledge you gain from doing something like that yourself from the ground up...something he can do with his kids someday! Priceless
 

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