SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME very appreciated

[codesteez]

That looks pretty rusty but I will have to check that wen I put it back together tomorrow. The thing is though if I advance it more it is fast do burnouts go flying up hills shifts great its odd

 

[HotRodPC]

Are you sure this Green Wire and Sensor your speaking of isn't the Temp Gauge or Oil pressure gauge senders. Those use Green wires.

Also, being an 86, it won't have a MAP sensor will it? I guess it could be if he has the mixture solenoid Carb, but for certain it should have the ESC dizzy. Never heard of it before, but if he's got the ESC, could a defective knock sensor be retarding the hell out of his timming through the ESC? I know just enough about the ESC to get into trouble, but without a CEL and a Code, I'm not so hot with it.

 

[HotRodPC]

That looks pretty rusty but I will have to check that wen I put it back together tomorrow. The thing is though if I advance it more it is fast do burnouts go flying up hills shifts great its odd

So wait? You're saying if you advance the timing real far it does run good?

 

[Jims86]

Sounds good. That valve won't close, unless vacuum is applied via a temp switch in the side of the air cleaner, otherwise, there is a spring inside to hold it open.

 

[codesteez]

Just pings bad but it rips. Yes its runs great beside pings

 

[Jims86]

How do you get passed a smog check like that?

 

[Jims86]

Are you sure this Green Wire and Sensor your speaking of isn't the Temp Gauge or Oil pressure gauge senders. Those use Green wires.

Also, being an 86, it won't have a MAP sensor will it? I guess it could be if he has the mixture solenoid Carb, but for certain it should have the ESC dizzy. Never heard of it before, but if he's got the ESC, could a defective knock sensor be retarding the hell out of his timming through the ESC? I know just enough about the ESC to get into trouble, but without a CEL and a Code, I'm not so hot with it.

It has everything TBI does, save for the ESC module, no knock sensor either.

 

[codesteez]

That's my whole issue tags were up two months ago. I can't figure it out I piad reg but I need to smog it won't just one time then hopefully register it at grandmas in lake county

 

[Jims86]

That's my whole issue tags were up two months ago. I can't figure it out I piad reg but I need to smog it won't just one time then hopefully register it at grandmas in lake county

Yeah, I think smog has got you until around Healdsburg in Sonoma, then its just change of ownership from there on.

 

[MrMarty51]

How about if You back the timing off, just until it quits pinging.
Pinging could still be a sign of a plugged exhaust pipe, creating excessive heat in the combustion chamber, I think.

 

[Jims86]

How about if You back the timing off, just until it quits pinging.
Pinging could still be a sign of a plugged exhaust pipe, creating excessive heat in the combustion chamber, I think.

Timing has to be 6 +/-2 to pass smog.
I wonder if his balancer slipped?

 

[codesteez]

If I got tell it pings then back off a little it runs terrible completely gutless kinda giants ramp and lowers gians and lowers with a load on with my foot on the gas peddle the same it barely runs idles great but doesn't drive

 

[codesteez]

Sorry gains RpMs and lowers

 

[codesteez]

Could this be a vac leak?

 

[chengny]

Dude - run a compression test. Why are you fighting it? It is one of the best diagnostics you can do.

Harbor Freight has a cheap quick connect set - $19.99. It's not Snap-on quality for sure but it will last a long time for the typical weekend warrior.


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Quickly diagnose worn piston rings, burnt valves and bad head gaskets

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Pull all your spark plugs out. Screw the adapter into the #1 cylinder. Open the throttle by hand and stick a screwdriver down the throat to hold the plates open.

Crank the engine over a few revolutions -just until the reading on the compression gage stops rising.

The gage has a check valve in the nipple. Record the pressure for #1. Push the release pin to reset the gage to zero and move on to #2.

Do the test dry (don't shoot oil into the cylinders on the initial set of readings). If possible do the test while the engine is warm.

When you get your readings you can post them here. I'm sure someone will help you interpret them.

Seriously, if an engine is struggling like yours is, a comp test is generally accepted to be the first step in determining where the problem is. And really, it only takes a few minutes to do.

What you will be looking for is not so much the pressure in the cylinders (- it is the difference between the highest and lowest pressures . That delta P will reveal burnt valves (or a valve timing problem).

From the GM shop manual:

Specifications

Minimum, 698 kPa (100 psi) @ 200 rpm.
The lowest cylinder reading should not be less than 80% of the highest. Perform compression test with engine at normal operating temperature, spark plugs removed and throttle wide open.


Or do a vacuum test as described in the following post. The results of that test are not as specific as a compression test but it is a good place to start too.