Seized front axle?

[Magnum44357]

Ok, So first off, here are some pics of the angle the pinion sits at.

On the pinion note: the axle seems to be leaking out the back (not the Dcover) I didnt think I overfilled it when I re-sealed the front, but it keeps leaking lol. Do you think it could be filled correctly and just leaking because of the angle it sits at with the long shackles? I'm getting really close to putting stock shackles on and doing a spring lift intead...

I didnt think the leak mattered a whole lot, but, I was replacing my rotors on sunday and decided to check my axle shafts too. when I pulled them out the ends were covered in water... when I first pulled my hubs off I found alot of water and mud, I thought at first I had a bad seal via hubs, but Now I'm thinking its leaking into the hubs from all the way at the back of the diff... that even possible? haha

so do you guys know of anywhere I can get a new seal? its a D44

PS. I tried to get the camera as level as possible... there really aren't any objects to go by in the picture, so just assume the picture itself is level.

 

[Magnum44357]

Ok, so second issue tonight...

I went sunday and got a new front Drive shaft, but when I brought it home, and compared it to my existing one, I noticed its a little different... The most notable difference and may be the deal breaker, is that the new driveshaft doesnt have as much angle to it as the old one... you spose I got some 3/4 ton shaft on accident? or does it even matter 1/2ton vs. 3/4ton? one thing i did notice is it looks like the new one is a little bit beefier. am I wrong about that?

heres some pics. My existing one has the orange rust on it and is a little shorter (seized) the new one actually seems shorter from the front U joint to the start of the spline.

oh also, how easy is it to replace the U joints in that Double cardon joint?

 

[Magnum44357]

Sorry for all the double postings but heres another picture of the angle they max out at.

 

[HotRodPC]

I'll wait for someone else to chime in that is more knowledgable, but I'm thinking the new driveshaft is fine and the older one is probably worn so bad and that's why it has the extra movement. However, that movement may have been created by the pinion angle either now, or before someone changed the angle. I notice those straps on the U joint aren't OEM. It looks like someone drilled out the threads for the U bolts.

 

[Magnum44357]

Wow I didnt even notice the drilled holes. why on earth would someone think you'd need U bolts instead of the OEM strap? weird...

 

[HotRodPC]

Cuz it's known in the off roading/rock crawling world that straps can get snagged and rip off so most will switch out yokes to U bolt type or the cheap guys will drill out the threads and use U bolts.

 

[crazy4offroad]

As far as the front axle is concerned that pinion angle dont look too awful bad. What happens when the pinion is lowered, when you fill the front diff through the fill hole the oil level is higher than it's supposed to be. Your oil level is supposed to reach the rear most pinion bearing but not really go onto the seal. So when the truck is sitting now, oil is against the (potentially bad) seal and leaking. When being driven in 4WD the oil gets tossed around in there pretty good and the seal gets lubed. If it were mine I would go for a spring lift instead of trying to gain it all by shackles, but I wouldnt go to stock length shackles. Maybe an inch longer, just to keep the eye of the spring from contacting the frame under compression which = very rough ride.

Now for the d-shaft, be sure the newer shaft is angled all the way. Reason I say this is a driveshaft in better shape has a tighter slip joint, and also has a tighter feeling center ball in the double cardan joint. It is possible yours is very worn out and can flop over that far easier than the newer, tighter one. You can look between the coupler for the DC joint and see the center ball/pin, and you can also see the contact patches of the yokes and coupler. I bet the old one the contact patches are shiny from contact and the new tight one isnt. I noticed the longer vs shorter pic, the slip yokes werent compressed the same. They need to be for a good comparison, and extended the same to make sure they're the same length. Auto trans trucks have a longer front driveshaft than their standard trans counterparts, by as much as 3 or 4". The part about how easy is it to change the DC joint u-joints, should be how HARD is it. If you really really think they need replaced I would leave it to a driveline shop. You have to melt out the plastic plugs to get the factory u-joint caps out. Then you have the centering ball to worry about, it's quite a balancing act to do all at the same time. And I can tell you from experience a worn out center ball can have very fine metal slivers that can be harder to get out of your skin than any spinter you've ever had. Not an easy job at all.

 

[Magnum44357]

Ok, so maybe I'll try just not filling it as much. know of any place to get a new seal? and a how to maybe?

heres some pics of the Driveshafts again. the new one max's its angle out on these stopper type pieces, but the old one doesnt. and I'm pretty sure its not just that the old one's stoppers are warn down, they whole DC joint looks diff, and is actually a little smaller.

I marked where they contact/bottom out at max angle, and also marked the driveshafts, so u can tell which is longer at which point. (I cant fully extend the old Driveshaft because it siezed... so idk which is longer for sure)

 

[Magnum44357]

oh also, I do notice that the old shaft's ball joint seems really loose compared to the newer one.

and I dont necessarily need new joints in the DC but was just curious if i could do it eventually. they seem fine for now.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Unless you park somewhere that people bitch if your truck marks its territory I would just let it leak till you get your spring lift. When it stops leaking the level will be just about right. If you're set on it any parts store sells the seal but it can be a bitch to install. You'll probably need an impact to take the pinion nut off, and red thread locker when you put it back on (with the impact). It is important to not overtighten the pinion nut, you will need at least 24 inch-pounds of rotational torque on used pinion bearings to prevent damaging them. Plus that part is easier done with the differential removed and you dont wanna get into all that. I would just let it weep for now.

For the driveshafts some people grind off the stops on the DC joint trying to get better angle. Been there done that and too much = ruined DC joint. You may want to try to take the slip yoke off the new shaft and put it on the old shaft. There's a cap with a rubber+metal grease seal on the slip shaft, you may need to use channellocks to take it off. Once the cap is off slide the shaft out and it may take a good yank to take it apart. Whether or not this works depends on whether your old shaft's main slip splines are worn out or if just the slip yoke is worn out. If it seems like it wont go together it may be a good thing, like the splines are good & tight, keep trying. Since the main shaft is too long I wouldnt try to use it, if it bottoms out it will destroy the differential and/or t-case.

 

[Magnum44357]

My only issue with letting it leak is like I was saying earlier, I'm getting my diff full of water, and its leaking into the hubs. thats y I think I should get a new seal I am pretty sure its leaking into the diff from the seal because I just changed the Gear oil and re-sealed the diff cover. and my hub's Orings look fine, and sit tight... and I'm pretty sure my vent hose is located high enough inside the engine bay.

I would love to try and just switch over the splines... but the old shaft is siezed... it wont budge whatsoever...

on that note, I also noticed that my new shaft has about twice as many spline gears as the old one. (i'll post a pic later)

 

[crazy4offroad]

The differential and hubs are seperated at the knuckle, there's no way water from your diff is making it into the hubs. There's a seal on the axleshaft at the back of the hub assembly, if it is missing or bad, water can get in the hub that way. There is also a smaller plastic bushing back there that works as a seal as well. You could have a driveline shop cut the splined end off the old one and weld on the new one. Might not cost $50 or less.

 

[Magnum44357]

Oh duh... ofcoarse its seperated at the nuckle... *facepalm*

when I pulled the axleshaft out most of the moisture was at the axleshafts splines. I also found alot of water in the hub, so i assumed without even thinking i guess haha. I'll take a look for that seal, to see what condition its in next i guess.

I dont really got 50 bucks to take it to a Dline shop... So maybe I'll throw it up in there and see how much of an angle I really need. hmmph