- Joined
- Dec 7, 2010
- Posts
- 24,772
- Reaction score
- 6,637
- Location
- Southeast PA
- First Name
- Paw Paw
- Truck Year
- 2007
- Truck Model
- Chevrolet Tahoe LT
- Engine Size
- 5.3, 4WD
You are the artist and this site is your easel. It's up to you bud.
Rust Attack Part I
- Thread starter 89Suburban
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
- Joined
- Aug 29, 2010
- Posts
- 47,128
- Reaction score
- 9,299
- Location
- OKC, OK
- First Name
- HotRod
- Truck Year
- 85 K20 LWB
- Truck Model
- Silverado
- Engine Size
- 454 - Turbo 400 - 3.73
I say whichever or whatever is best for you. Body work is cool, and so is cab corner specific since its such a common replacement part on SBs.
Swims350
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2010
- Posts
- 4,352
- Reaction score
- 812
- Location
- Logan WV
- First Name
- Chris
- Truck Year
- 1983
- Truck Model
- K10
- Engine Size
- none
the rockers I did but the screws were only there to hold it in place while the glue dried and I drilled for rivets. On the cab corners nothing was left other then the 1/2 overlap that's it.
As for the instant carport, it worked good for that purpose, and it came from magic mart, like $100 or so for the top and the side and end kit was more. I think it was $150-180 or so total.
DO NOT expect it to stay in high winds, mine lasted for a long time thru rain and wind and snow, but one bad storm took it out. it took out the paint on the nose of the monte carlo I had and took out the wife's back window, a $300 fix. I had 4 foot rebar drove into the ground at opposing angles and the legs tied to them, it had a larger head on like 3/4 rebar, and about a 2 inch head so the rope would not slip off, had the middle t intersection of it ratchet strapped to my truck frame and all 6 legs had a twist bar like tent stake in the ground and tied to them, the rebar was in each corner, still blew over and tore up. I could put it back up but I need all the intersection pieces for it, they all bent or ripped apart in the storm.
As for the thread I'll work on it tomorrow, and I'll include some of my 88 which is more in to detail as to grinding and cutting.
As for the instant carport, it worked good for that purpose, and it came from magic mart, like $100 or so for the top and the side and end kit was more. I think it was $150-180 or so total.
DO NOT expect it to stay in high winds, mine lasted for a long time thru rain and wind and snow, but one bad storm took it out. it took out the paint on the nose of the monte carlo I had and took out the wife's back window, a $300 fix. I had 4 foot rebar drove into the ground at opposing angles and the legs tied to them, it had a larger head on like 3/4 rebar, and about a 2 inch head so the rope would not slip off, had the middle t intersection of it ratchet strapped to my truck frame and all 6 legs had a twist bar like tent stake in the ground and tied to them, the rebar was in each corner, still blew over and tore up. I could put it back up but I need all the intersection pieces for it, they all bent or ripped apart in the storm.
As for the thread I'll work on it tomorrow, and I'll include some of my 88 which is more in to detail as to grinding and cutting.
- Joined
- Aug 29, 2010
- Posts
- 47,128
- Reaction score
- 9,299
- Location
- OKC, OK
- First Name
- HotRod
- Truck Year
- 85 K20 LWB
- Truck Model
- Silverado
- Engine Size
- 454 - Turbo 400 - 3.73
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2010
- Posts
- 24,772
- Reaction score
- 6,637
- Location
- Southeast PA
- First Name
- Paw Paw
- Truck Year
- 2007
- Truck Model
- Chevrolet Tahoe LT
- Engine Size
- 5.3, 4WD
Tried to tackle a little of the inner fenders tonight......
You must be registered for see images
You must be registered for see images
You must be registered for see images
Swims350
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2010
- Posts
- 4,352
- Reaction score
- 812
- Location
- Logan WV
- First Name
- Chris
- Truck Year
- 1983
- Truck Model
- K10
- Engine Size
- none
had to do that a couple times. Them front fenders and that bracket/plate with the 3 bolts ALWAYS rots out.
One done you can glob on some filler or fiberglass, then undercoat it, and you don't even have to sand it. You could undercoat right now and hide most of it but if you want to seal it up good throw some fiberglass or filler on it or caulk the edges then slap on some undercoat.
One done you can glob on some filler or fiberglass, then undercoat it, and you don't even have to sand it. You could undercoat right now and hide most of it but if you want to seal it up good throw some fiberglass or filler on it or caulk the edges then slap on some undercoat.
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2010
- Posts
- 28,456
- Reaction score
- 9,432
- Location
- Kansas City, Mo
- First Name
- Jacob
- Truck Year
- 1977/1990/1991
- Truck Model
- C10 longbed/R1500 Burb/R3500 Dually
- Engine Size
- 350/350/454
Did you cut out the rot on the inner fenders first or just put a plate over them?
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2010
- Posts
- 24,772
- Reaction score
- 6,637
- Location
- Southeast PA
- First Name
- Paw Paw
- Truck Year
- 2007
- Truck Model
- Chevrolet Tahoe LT
- Engine Size
- 5.3, 4WD
I knocked out the loose ****, blew it out with air and sprayed the **** out it in there with rust converter and primer on top of that, then plated it.
- Joined
- Aug 29, 2010
- Posts
- 47,128
- Reaction score
- 9,299
- Location
- OKC, OK
- First Name
- HotRod
- Truck Year
- 85 K20 LWB
- Truck Model
- Silverado
- Engine Size
- 454 - Turbo 400 - 3.73
I think that might work since you are hitting it with rust converter, but its always been my understanding that you always want to cut the rust out, since its like a fungus and if you panel over old rust it would just eventually transfer to the new panels in a short time. But, you'd hope with rust converter, you killed the ability for it to grow and can then go over it.
Swims350
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2010
- Posts
- 4,352
- Reaction score
- 812
- Location
- Logan WV
- First Name
- Chris
- Truck Year
- 1983
- Truck Model
- K10
- Engine Size
- none
yea but the back side can still grow. if you used tin or whatever it looks like tin for roofs, it won't transfer cuz it don't rust, well some don't.
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2010
- Posts
- 28,456
- Reaction score
- 9,432
- Location
- Kansas City, Mo
- First Name
- Jacob
- Truck Year
- 1977/1990/1991
- Truck Model
- C10 longbed/R1500 Burb/R3500 Dually
- Engine Size
- 350/350/454
I guess we will see in a few months 
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2010
- Posts
- 24,772
- Reaction score
- 6,637
- Location
- Southeast PA
- First Name
- Paw Paw
- Truck Year
- 2007
- Truck Model
- Chevrolet Tahoe LT
- Engine Size
- 5.3, 4WD
It's aluminum I am using for the plates,and by the time this thing get's back to the condition it was in, I'll be shopping for a new SB for sure. I think the major thing getting accomplished here is closing up those inner fender wells so the tire aint slinging water and mud and salt and **** into the inner panels. If I can keep that **** outside where it belongs, it will greatly slow down any rusting going on. And that rust converter is some really good **** from what I have been seeing using it...
- Joined
- Aug 29, 2010
- Posts
- 47,128
- Reaction score
- 9,299
- Location
- OKC, OK
- First Name
- HotRod
- Truck Year
- 85 K20 LWB
- Truck Model
- Silverado
- Engine Size
- 454 - Turbo 400 - 3.73
Makes good sense to me. So you're basically just buying time then, not going for the full restoration.
- Joined
- Aug 29, 2010
- Posts
- 47,128
- Reaction score
- 9,299
- Location
- OKC, OK
- First Name
- HotRod
- Truck Year
- 85 K20 LWB
- Truck Model
- Silverado
- Engine Size
- 454 - Turbo 400 - 3.73
I think undercoat really helps alot. I hope to be able to clean the bottom of my trucks that don't have rust and undercoat them. Even if it is the rattle can stuff, it bound to be much better than nothing at all and should keep the road elements from weather from getting to the metal til you get thru some water puddles or undercarriage wash to get the stuff off the undercoat.
