Rust Attack Part I

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89Suburban

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hahaha....

:console:
 

HotRodPC

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That's what you call shopping. :waytogo:
 

89Suburban

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SUNNUUVA BITCH!!!!!!!!! Raybucks is nailing me with 4.95 sales tax! F-U!!!!!!:flipthebird::flipthebird::flipthebird::flipthebird::flipthebird:

Looks like LMC it is!!!!!:Jedi: That also means Im gonna have to get stuck with the shorter wheel well panel too, BASTARDS!!!:flipthebird:
 

Old77

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For just 4.95 you could have that taller wheel well panel :D
 

89Suburban

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For just 4.95 you could have that taller wheel well panel :D
No, if I can cheat the state fat cat's out of 5 bucks I am NOT GOING TO DO IT!!!!!!!!:flipthebird:

:High 5:
 
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Old77

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:handshake: You're a good man! :D
 

Swims350

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you guys wondering about the raybuck panels, I told ya I bought from them, 2 rocker slip ons 2 lower door skins, cab corners, upper arches. I put them all on too except for the door skins. fit is great and quality looks great too.

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Now I don't have any of the bed, some how I missed that crap, I think my camera must have died then or something. I had great success with them though the bed pieces fit great. Lik anything it just takes time to make them fit perfectly. The rockers I had a little more work on since I left all the old rocker in place, I should have cut off what wasn't good metal and replaced only that but no welder and them being slip on we put em on over the old. They fit good but had some gaps that could have been fixed by removing the old or taking more time. I had to bend the bottom lip flat and rework it, but once on the truck I beat it back into shape to match the original piece. Again all in just trying to make it look stock and perfect. it just used a little more filler on the door jamb area to make it right, that's where the gaps were, where the piece laid over the old it had high spots where it had gaps between the two. I used rivets only and silaprene to hold things together, then hammer them into better fitting, fiberglass, then bondo. Now we have a welder. The bedsides ended up cracking due to silaprene not being a panel bonding ahesive, I was told it was, bought it, used it, it cracked, got pissed, then was told it's not panel bondong it only like for door skins and over laps more of a seam sealer. I'm still pissed. I bought the panels from them, the zero rust and the silaprene, and the flangeing pliers, they work great. I used them on the bed, cut out all the rust, ground down to find an inch of good metal past the rust, cut it out, then cut the repair panel about 5/8 or 1/2 or so bigger, flanged the metal and put the panel on, this way it sits flush with the old stuff and make body work very easy. there is an overlap of 1/2 or so but I hit it all with self etch primer and then used the silaprene as well.
 
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89Suburban

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Can we ask, how many panels total? And what was the cost with freight?
Sorry buddy, just saw this. Total of 3 panels. Upper arch and front and rear lowers for the pass side rear wheel well. Total shipped to SE PA was $138.
 

89Suburban

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@ swimz, why don;t you take those pics and do a how-to man, they look great and your craftsmanship is very good. What the hell else are you keeping from us, lol... :High 5:
 

HotRodPC

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you guys wondering about the raybuck panels, I told ya I bought from them, 2 rocker slip ons 2 lower door skins, cab corners, upper arches. I put them all on too except for the door skins. fit is great and quality looks great too.

You must be registered for see images attach

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Now I don't have any of the bed, some how I missed that crap, I think my camera must have died then or something. I had great success with them though the bed pieces fit great. Lik anything it just takes time to make them fit perfectly. The rockers I had a little more work on since I left all the old rocker in place, I should have cut off what wasn't good metal and replaced only that but no welder and them being slip on we put em on over the old. They fit good but had some gaps that could have been fixed by removing the old or taking more time. I had to bend the bottom lip flat and rework it, but once on the truck I beat it back into shape to match the original piece. Again all in just trying to make it look stock and perfect. it just used a little more filler on the door jamb area to make it right, that's where the gaps were, where the piece laid over the old it had high spots where it had gaps between the two. I used rivets only and silaprene to hold things together, then hammer them into better fitting, fiberglass, then bondo. Now we have a welder. The bedsides ended up cracking due to silaprene not being a panel bonding ahesive, I was told it was, bought it, used it, it cracked, got pissed, then was told it's not panel bondong it only like for door skins and over laps more of a seam sealer. I'm still pissed. I bought the panels from them, the zero rust and the silaprene, and the flangeing pliers, they work great. I used them on the bed, cut out all the rust, ground down to find an inch of good metal past the rust, cut it out, then cut the repair panel about 5/8 or 1/2 or so bigger, flanged the metal and put the panel on, this way it sits flush with the old stuff and make body work very easy. there is an overlap of 1/2 or so but I hit it all with self etch primer and then used the silaprene as well.

Damn Good work their Swims. Why the hell you holding out on us buddy??? Either a tech write up, or Exterior Write Up is certainly in order for that job right there. :grd:
 

HotRodPC

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@ swimz, why don;t you take those pics and do a how-to man, they look great and your craftsmanship is very good. What the hell else are you keeping from us, lol... :High 5:

Doh, didn't read this post yet, and see you already chewed his ass, so I did it too. He's gonna think we're a bunch of old bitchin nags !!! I definatley say he's holding out and don't think we're worth his time !!! I say he has an ass whipin coming. I'll be right behind you 89S. I'll back you up. :boxing::Get him!:
 

Old77

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Nice work man. Why didn't you end up using the door skins?
 

Swims350

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We originally bought one rocker skin and both door skins for the black 86 4x4 dad had, he got rid of it before we got around to it. The doors he has on it now are perfect as far as rust, but the PS had a huge dent in it.

As for tech or write up, eh just forgot. I had plenty of pics on here somewhere on my 88, when I pulled the bed, cut my old rusty cab corners off and welded in new ones, cleaned and painted the frame, the bottom side of the bed floor and painted the cab corners after body work. I also had pics with the motor tore apart to short block in the truck, but no rebuild pics, then had it all back together in the truck. Also have pics of the motor swap between dad's 84 and the 85 monte carlo. I also just did a complete front end rebuild on the 84 back in Nov. tie rods, ball joints, idler arm, and a new upper control arm.

I forget to take pics, and with pics missing and not remembering the bolt size and tools used and such I don't think, to me it's enough tech to help anyone out. Like body work, not much involved, but I could do some tech and answer questions if someone had them.

Should have some gas tank removal and reinstall soon, it needs the brackets put on it, also going to swap rear gears once it warms up.

I got plenty of work to do on the BIL's MCSS too, find and fix a trans leak, so maybe I could do some there, and also other things on it, rear wheel cylinders maybe, and headlights lol, also got new valve covers going on my 88 and an open element air cleaner on the 88 which is tbi.

So if you guys think it's good enough for a tech deal I'll get one together on the cab corners and such, although I don't have complete tools and supplies list.
 

Swims350

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also if I'm gonna do one should it be body work in general or cab corner replacement?
 

Irishman999

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Did you glue and screw the repair panels over the old ones and feather the edges with a grinder and blend it with bondo?

I like that canopy you used to paint, where did you find it and was it worth the cash?
 

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