- Joined
- Dec 7, 2010
- Posts
- 24,772
- Reaction score
- 6,637
- Location
- Southeast PA
- First Name
- Paw Paw
- Truck Year
- 2007
- Truck Model
- Chevrolet Tahoe LT
- Engine Size
- 5.3, 4WD
hahaha....
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No, if I can cheat the state fat cat's out of 5 bucks I am NOT GOING TO DO IT!!!!!!!!For just 4.95 you could have that taller wheel well panel
Sorry buddy, just saw this. Total of 3 panels. Upper arch and front and rear lowers for the pass side rear wheel well. Total shipped to SE PA was $138.Can we ask, how many panels total? And what was the cost with freight?
you guys wondering about the raybuck panels, I told ya I bought from them, 2 rocker slip ons 2 lower door skins, cab corners, upper arches. I put them all on too except for the door skins. fit is great and quality looks great too.
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Now I don't have any of the bed, some how I missed that crap, I think my camera must have died then or something. I had great success with them though the bed pieces fit great. Lik anything it just takes time to make them fit perfectly. The rockers I had a little more work on since I left all the old rocker in place, I should have cut off what wasn't good metal and replaced only that but no welder and them being slip on we put em on over the old. They fit good but had some gaps that could have been fixed by removing the old or taking more time. I had to bend the bottom lip flat and rework it, but once on the truck I beat it back into shape to match the original piece. Again all in just trying to make it look stock and perfect. it just used a little more filler on the door jamb area to make it right, that's where the gaps were, where the piece laid over the old it had high spots where it had gaps between the two. I used rivets only and silaprene to hold things together, then hammer them into better fitting, fiberglass, then bondo. Now we have a welder. The bedsides ended up cracking due to silaprene not being a panel bonding ahesive, I was told it was, bought it, used it, it cracked, got pissed, then was told it's not panel bondong it only like for door skins and over laps more of a seam sealer. I'm still pissed. I bought the panels from them, the zero rust and the silaprene, and the flangeing pliers, they work great. I used them on the bed, cut out all the rust, ground down to find an inch of good metal past the rust, cut it out, then cut the repair panel about 5/8 or 1/2 or so bigger, flanged the metal and put the panel on, this way it sits flush with the old stuff and make body work very easy. there is an overlap of 1/2 or so but I hit it all with self etch primer and then used the silaprene as well.
@ swimz, why don;t you take those pics and do a how-to man, they look great and your craftsmanship is very good. What the hell else are you keeping from us, lol...