Removing Trans and T-Case

[Doppleganger]

Ok...bear with me here - stupid question alert. Its been 30 yrs since my last square and never had to pull the entire drive train on one before....just looking for a little insight / strategy. I watched a couple vids on youtube that were borderline worthless.

Motor is ready to come out - swapped it to a guy for rebuilding my axles. From what I can tell, the t-case just hangs on the back of the trans and that is mounted with just 1 cross member/support? So is the trans balanced between 1 mount and then the back of the motor...with the t-case hanging on it?

Trying to figure if its more strategic to pull it all together (would really rather not) or can I remove the t-case and trans separately - without them dropping or shifting when the last 2 bell housing bolts come out and the motor is pulled? I have 2 floor jacks to position under one or the other but dont want them left outside in the weather.

Thanks for any help.

 

[75Monza]

I just pull the motor and have a jack under the trans to start with. Once motor is out, I cut a 2x4 stud to lay across the frame and support the front of the trans by that so I can take my jack back.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Parkour

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[AuroraGirl]

thats also without the drive shaft connected to anything or resting in a supportive position. its all the mount

 

[Doppleganger]

T-case needs rebuilt too, so going to try and remove it by itself. Lot of weight out of the way (said the same thing when my ex left too).

 

[75Monza]

Well, if you don't have a trans jack, the easiest in that case is to drop the transfer off the trans first (the bolts on the transfer case side of the adapter so the transmission is still supported by the crossmember), then take motor and trans right out at the same time if you have enough pick height with your cherry picker it that is what your using. Need to pull the hood to clear everything out easy, I left mine on the last one I did and was very tight over the core support with Hood at the pivot limit with spring lower disconnected, lol.

 

[Doppleganger]

Got 3 bolts left in the front of the t-case and they're about 1/2 out....ATF's been dribbling pretty good for a couple hours now. Already pulled the large drain plug and emptied it there....no idea where all this other fluid is coming from (trans?).

Got plenty of room to move when the time comes. heh heh

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[wanderinthru]

Got 3 bolts left in the front of the t-case and they're about 1/2 out....ATF's been dribbling pretty good for a couple hours now. Already pulled the large drain plug and emptied it there....no idea where all this other fluid is coming from (trans?).

Got plenty of room to move when the time comes. heh heh

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If that pic is what you have, i would take them out together.

 

[BKING33]

I pull every out the front with a skid loader when i'm stripping a truck for parts. its a lot of weight if u r using a cherry picker. i use a four wheeler jack when i'm dropping a trans/t-fer case separately from engine.

 

[Doppleganger]

If that pic is what you have, i would take them out together.

Thats an actual pic of a couple days ago. Should be easier all going back in....going to do it with no cab or bed on.

I pull every out the front with a skid loader when i'm stripping a truck for parts. its a lot of weight if u r using a cherry picker. i use a four wheeler jack when i'm dropping a trans/t-fer case separately from engine.

Funny....I used a motorcycle jack to lift a motor/tran (4cyl) into a car from underneath to save the new paint in the engine bay.

 

[BKING33]

yeah one of my best investments. i've parted out over 20 trucks and fixed many others using it alot safer on the ground than floor jacks or trans jacks. i've used it for dropping axles also.

 

[Ricko1966]

I've pulled transfer case and transmission as a unit the 5 or so times I've done it .Last transmission I did on the ground I put a long wide trailer ramp underneath the transmission and sticking out each side of the truck 6 inches or so, and it's the same way I'll do my next t case/transmission assembly stick scissor jacks at the end of each ramp lower one side a few inches run around the other side lower it twice as many inches, repeat until your ramps close to the ground. Lift the ramp kick the jack out now you slide it across the ramp 1 sides high so gravity helps. It was way easier and more stable than any other way I've done them without a lift. I did use blocks to hold my ramps 2 blocks on each end of the ramp and a scissor jack for raising and lowering the ramp. I used 2 scissor jacks but you could get by with one.

 

[Vbb199]

I reckon you could either unbolt everything, and Pull engine, trans, and t case out as 1 whole unit, since you're on concrete, that wouldn't be so bad, just don't forget the floor shifter for the t case haha.

Or in my case, since I lack concrete, it's t case first, then trans, and motor gets yanked last.

 

[HotRodPC]

Yes you can pull the Tcase off as a separate unit if you want. I've done it both ways. I have pulled engine and transmissions together too but not with a Tcase hanging off the back of the transmission.

 

[Doppleganger]

I let it drain overnight - t-case is on with 3 bolts that are half loose and ATF was coming out of the front end pretty steady. Drive shafts are all out - just need to lower the t-case out now. Will probably do as was suggested and pull the motor-trans out together. Not much left and its a straight shot with little to nothing in the way.

The trans not having a drain plug in the pan cracks me up....brilliant. Maybe did it for weight reduction? lol New pan will have a drain plug.

Will almost be cheating going back in on an open frame. Probably wont be til next year though.

Looking at that pic....think I need a little longer brake line on the right side too.