REMOVE a leaf?? or, How to Lower a 4" lift to stock height

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bucket

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That truck in the picture is lifted and 4wd, probably a 2.5 lift. You might be perfectly happy with just going down to a 33" with more of a street tread. It will work a little better with your gearing and it's not too much different from a stock sized tire. Then you can simply pull one of the front leaves and then go down to a 2 or 3 inch block in the rear. Simple and cheap.
 

MannyDantyla

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That truck in the picture is lifted and 4wd, probably a 2.5 lift. You might be perfectly happy with just going down to a 33" with more of a street tread. It will work a little better with your gearing and it's not too much different from a stock sized tire. Then you can simply pull one of the front leaves and then go down to a 2 or 3 inch block in the rear. Simple and cheap.

That might be the ticket right there. Thanks bucket :cheers:

but I'm not so sure that truck in the picture is lifted. Here's his build thread - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=537558 - no lift blocks on the rear and flat springs on the front
 

bucket

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Hmm, you might be right. It does look a little higher than most though, maybe the springs just haven't sagged much. The truck does have 33's though.
 

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I would just replace the blocks and drop down to 33's. That would be the easiest and cheapest route to go. This is just my opinion. Then you don't have to worry about the gear ratio. The tires will be slightly cheaper. The truck should have slightly more power. Just my thoughts tho.

BTW- It looks like the driveshaft will have to be cut according to your pic if you drop it. It looks like there is about a inch or inch and a half of play which is a good thing when your truck is lifted.
 

Skweegle89

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What trans are you running?


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MannyDantyla

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BTW- It looks like the driveshaft will have to be cut according to your pic if you drop it. It looks like there is about a inch or inch and a half of play which is a good thing when your truck is lifted.

If that's the case then my dilemma is solved and I know what I must do: SELL! (and by a different square body of course ;)).

Or maybe not, I don't know.........
:whymewhyme::whymewhyme::whymewhyme::whymewhyme:
 
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Skweegle89

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Previous post from him says he has a 465 with a 205 transfer case.:)


I wouldn't think he would have too much gear with that 4speed, but I'm no expert.


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MannyDantyla

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I wouldn't think he would have too much gear with that 4speed, but I'm no expert.

Yeah it's a bit too much gear, but the 350 is very strong and can muscle through it. In fact, the engine might be my favorite part of this truck. That, and the fact that it's SWB.

What to do what to do.....
 

Skweegle89

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Yeah it's a bit too much gear, but the 350 is very strong and can muscle through it. In fact, the engine might be my favorite part of this truck. That, and the fact that it's SWB.



What to do what to do.....


Hit me up if you decide to sell it. My stepdad lives over by Ft Scott and has been looking for a half ton.


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MannyDantyla

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Can I get another opinion on whether or not I'll need to shorten the driveshafts? Here are some better pictures:

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So you can see there's only about an inch of travel.

I here there's a driveline shop in Wichita that will shorten them for $50 a pop. That's not bad at all.

Hit me up if you decide to sell it. My stepdad lives over by Ft Scott and has been looking for a half ton.

Will do
 

bucket

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Even as it is now, it looks like they could stand to be shortened. But as you have found, that's not too terribly expensive.
 

Skweegle89

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Il trade you springs, but will take a little time to coordinate when we could meet up.


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MannyDantyla

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FYI, I was able to remove the lift and bring the truck back down to stock height. It did require new front leaf springs, and the driveshafts did need to be shortened. The steering arm was the stock one so that didn't have to be replaced, thank god. Of course I needed new shocks and u-bolts all around, and smaller tires.

Full write-up about this job is in my build thread, page 11.

Before:
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After:
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The new leaf springs, shocks, u-bolts:
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A word (or two) about shortening the driveshafts:

In order to drop this truck 4 inches, the driveshafts need to be shortened a little. I drove 40 miles to a place in Kansas City that could do the work. Before making the drive though, I did a little algebra. Remember that **** in 9th grade math class? a squared plus b squared equals c squared. Of course this only works for a right triangle. But from that calculation, my front driveshaft needed to be shorted 2 inches and my rear driveshaft 1 inch.

Ok back to the KC truck shop, I told the manager there these calculations and he wasn't having any of it. The only way to do this once (and not have to come back and have them shortened again because it wasn't enough the first time) was to do the drop then take a real measurement from u-joint to u-joint. (Spoiler alert: he was right, I was wrong.) So the plan we came up with was to leave him with my rear driveshaft and to drive back home in front wheel drive only, then drop the rear and call him with the measurement. So that's what I did and I'm glad I did because the measurement was no where near what I had calculated it would be. It wasn't a right triangle.

Hope this info come in handy for anyone stumbling upon this thread.
 

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