Recommend rear wheel cylinder?

[88SUB]

So now I seem to have multiple issues....awesome!
Still need to figure out my brake issue and now get into the axle part which I have no clue about. Great.
I don't even see what you mean about a groove so have no idea what I'm trying to fix.

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[HotRodPC]

So now I seem to have multiple issues....awesome!
Still need to figure out my brake issue and now get into the axle part which I have no clue about. Great.
I don't even see what you mean about a groove so have no idea what I'm trying to fix.

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You MAY NOT have multiple issues. I think suggestions are being made as to what else could be saturating the brake shoes or what other problems can go inside the brake drum. Didn't you mention you lost brake pedal or brakes became soft or squishy? Forgive me, I've read several threads and may be getting your confused with another.

 

[88SUB]

Yeah. On way home from camping I noticed my braking was almost gone. Pedal pretty much to the floor. Was fine going out there and driving around (desert) and on the way out to go home, is when I noticed (beginning of paved road) I had to really push down on brake.

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[HotRodPC]

Yeah. On way home from camping I noticed my braking was almost gone. Pedal pretty much to the floor. Was fine going out there and driving around (desert) and on the way out to go home, is when I noticed (beginning of paved road) I had to really push down on brake.

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Chances are you have the problem solved with the wheel cylinder replacement, but these guys aren't going to let you leave any stones unturned as far as what else could be wrong. Do what you've done now, and maybe in a couple weeks pop what was the worst side this time and do an inspection. If it's still dry and brakes are working good, then you can feel confident you got'er done !!!

 

[88SUB]

Well like I said. So far only replaced passenger rear side cylinder. While I was going to do driver rear, I noticed axle issue and just buttoned it up since I'm gonna need to go back and do that stuff, plus it was getting late. But putting truck back in its spot, brakes were no better. Same, pedal to the floor and no braking (well very minimal anyway) bit that maybe because only one cylinder replaced.
I need to find out what parts I need and go at it again next weekend. I'm just not sure what I need. What brand and whatnot.

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[MikeB]

I didn't know Brake Best was Wagner, but I've used at least 2 pairs of their wheel cylinders over the years, along with rotors and calipers, I've had no problems with any of those parts, and my O'Reillys store really stands behind what they sell. Not sure about their brake parts, but the alternator, power steering pump, and aluminum radiator I bought from them have lifetime warranties.

 

[88SUB]

Couple things after having some help yesterday.
First, had someone take apart everything on both rear systems. Looked at both old cylinders and confirmed they were bad. Also noticed brake adjusters were wrong and not working correctly and auto adjusting correctly.
The other issue was I expected. Air. LOTS of air. Bled all 4 wheels and my brakes never felt better. Only thing we are concerned about is the master cylinder. Top reservoir is pretty loose, even though it isn't leaking at the seals. But the Beast is sitting this week and next weekend we will see if any air gets into the system during this time.

I'll also be replacing the bearings and seals in the rear next weekend since it was confirmed the driver side is in fact leaking.

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[rt66paul]

Once the Brake shoe/pad or clutch surface has any oil on it, you must replace them. No ifs, ands or buts. They soak up oil and then will not grip.

 

[88SUB]

Need some assistance here... can't figure out how to remove axles. Opened and drained the pumpkin, now what? Lol
I can't see any clips or bolts to remove to allow axle to slide out so I can replace seals and bearings.

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[Blue Ox]

Did you try removing that collar by the axle bearing?

If that's not it then it's a C-clip rear and you'll need to get the crosspin out. There should be a bolt in the carrier that is parallel to the axles that goes through the pin to hold it in place. Once the PIN is out push the axle shaft in. Then you can remove the C-clips and pull the shaft out.

The spider gears may have to come out too. I don't know that it's critical, but I would try to put them back in the same spot they came out of.

 

[88SUB]

If by collar you mean the plate with lug studs, not yet. Assumed they wouldn't move without removing whatever is inside pumpkin first.
Not seeing anything that runs parallel with the axle though. Only that short rod in the middle with the smaller gears but it's running up and down

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[Blue Ox]

I'm not sure if those are retainers or the axle flange. I don't recall those rears having retainers, I'm pretty sure they were C-clips.

A retaining bolt would be perpendicular to that pin. Look at both ends of it. There would be a recess in the carrier where it goes in.

 

[88SUB]

Yeah, it's almost like I'm missing the small bolt that holds that bar in there to slide out.
I see small recessed areas where one should be.

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[Blue Ox]

Uh oh. I think mine had a conventional bolt, but it's been a while since I blew it up and scrapped it. How about an Allen, or is there a bolt head stuck to the magnet?

 

[88SUB]

Yeah I'm gonna have to see if I can get a scope or something to see what's up. No bolt head and that hole looks empty lol which isn't good I would imagine.

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