Rear bleeder access trouble

[Turbo4whl]

There is a rubber cap on one end, or both ends. Remove the cap and you will see a pin with a flat nail head. Lift that nail head to bleed the brakes. There are some valves that don't have a nail head, those need too be pushed in.

They make a small clip tool to lift the pin. They also make a clamp tool to push the pin. If the proportioning valve has a pin each end, they both need to be moved.

 

[Coal creek Chris]

Will this only work with the special tools or could I use a small pick, like a dentist pick?

 

[Turbo4whl]

Can be done with any tool that allows you to move the pin.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Here's the one I have that works on the cab and chassis trucks:

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This more standard one 'could' work from below the spring, using the 45° end, if I put a bend in the wrench about midway:

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Wow, not much clearance is an understatement! Cool tools, I have never heard of these offset wrenches, I always use sockets or box end wrenches, but I don't have the clearance issues like that shown.

 

[bucket]

Wow, not much clearance is an understatement! Cool tools, I have never heard of these offset wrenches, I always use sockets or box end wrenches, but I don't have the clearance issues like that shown.

Yes, it's tight clearance for sure. It's a good picture to show anyone that wants to convert a cab and chassis rear axle for use in a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck. There's simply no room.

 

[Raider L]

@Coal creek Chris,

Go to Walmart and buy you a device called a "Mighty Vac". It allows you to bleed your brakes by yourself without having to pump them or anyone helping. Once you loosen the bleeder you attach a clear hose onto the valve and use the device to draw a vacuum on the system and when it stops bubbling it's done. I have one and I love it because you can do all four corners in about thirty minutes. The instructions are simple and there are plenty of accessaries to fit anything, even carb power valves to check if they are opening at the right vacuum point.

 

[Coal creek Chris]

@Coal creek Chris,

Go to Walmart and buy you a device called a "Mighty Vac". It allows you to bleed your brakes by yourself without having to pump them or anyone helping. Once you loosen the bleeder you attach a clear hose onto the valve and use the device to draw a vacuum on the system and when it stops bubbling it's done. I have one and I love it because you can do all four corners in about thirty minutes. The instructions are simple and there are plenty of accessaries to fit anything, even carb power valves to check if they are opening at the right vacuum point.

I've tried to bleed them with another person pushing the pedal and almost no fluid comes out of the bleeder when the pedal is pressed. A little comes out, but nothing like I expected. So I think it might be that the proportioning valve has shut off flow to the rears and I need to open it back up.

 

[Coal creek Chris]

Yes, it's tight clearance for sure. It's a good picture to show anyone that wants to convert a cab and chassis rear axle for use in a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck. There's simply no room.

Good to know. So if I ever part out this truck, people might not want to buy this rear axle?

 

[Craig 85]

Good to know. So if I ever part out this truck, people might not want to buy this rear axle?

It will only fit in 1 ton trucks due to the width. The spring hangers are narrower on 1 tons than 1/2 or 3/4 tons. The axle is good for someone wanting to have a dually rear under a standard bed without dually fenders.

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[Coal creek Chris]

Thanks to everybody who helped me on this. So, I got everything back together, went on a long test drive and the brakes work very well with firm pedal and much less pedal travel than before. But the rear bleeding process was strange and it still doesn't seem right, but I got it as best I could. I checked the proportioning valve and I have the kind that only has a rubber cap on one end and not a nail head that is movable. I tried to push the pin inward and couldn't get it to move much, maybe a millimeter, but probably not even that much and as soon as I hit the brakes it would move back to the original position. Tried the technique to fake a front caliper leak to reset the p-valve and that didn't do anything. Tried that about 4 times. Then I tried to bleed the rears again and got decent fluid flow out of the passenger side wheel cylinder. So that made me think that the p-valve was not blocking flow to the rear. Tried to bleed the rear drivers side again and got some fluid but not much. But the brakes on both sides seem to be working and I didn't sense any pulling to the side during the test drive like if only one rear side was working. A bit of a mystery but the truck stops so much better than before that I'll probably just live with it and watch it. Can anybody think of a reason that fluid flow out of the rear bleeders was low, but the brakes seem to be working well on both sides? The steel and rubber lines look fine and nothing obvious like dents or damage. If it matters, I have the rear load sensing valve and hydroboost on this truck.

 

[Turbo4whl]

If you believe there is still air in the rear wheel cylinders, then apply the parking brake and bleed them again. If you do get more air, the rear brake shoes are out of adjustment also.