Re-upgrading to power driver's window

[da_raabi]

For some reason the PO of my truck decided he did not want power windows or locks in the front doors. When I first got the truck I put the lock switches back in and got the power locks back (that's all the doofus needed... switches ). Well the manual regulator in the driver's front door finally broke. As in the crank post broke right off! So now I'm going back to power.

I was able to get a regulator and new motor (not reman) from Advance for about $65, both with lifetime warranties. I'm hoping to get them installed over the next couple of days. Trying to drive in FL with no A/C AND no window opening SUCKS.

I was able to find a window switch on ebay too. Damn things are hard to come by. I could find tons of the 1/2 way window switches everywhere, but the 4-way switch I needed for the crew cab was rare! And at $28 used it hurt too!

Anyway, wish me luck. Regulators are always a "fun" project.

 

[74 Shortbed]

Actually it's very simple(at least in Big Turd it was)took a couple hours to figure it out though, lol, take off two bots and nuts, slide the whole thing back half ways, there's a notch in the top track(you can see it)the front roller drops out that notch, then lift up and slide the unit back till the rear rollers slide out the top and bottom tracks then pull it out the hole, reverse for installation, takes about 5 minutes each way, once you figure it out that is,lol..

 

[da_raabi]

Well shoot that don't sound too bad!

 

[74 Shortbed]

Nope, in fact I felt like a dork because it took so long to figure it out, lol.

 

[75Monza]

For some reason the PO of my truck decided he did not want power windows or locks in the front doors. When I first got the truck I put the lock switches back in and got the power locks back (that's all the doofus needed... switches ). Well the manual regulator in the driver's front door finally broke. As in the crank post broke right off! So now I'm going back to power.

I was able to get a regulator and new motor (not reman) from Advance for about $65, both with lifetime warranties. I'm hoping to get them installed over the next couple of days. Trying to drive in FL with no A/C AND no window opening SUCKS.

I was able to find a window switch on ebay too. Damn things are hard to come by. I could find tons of the 1/2 way window switches everywhere, but the 4-way switch I needed for the crew cab was rare! And at $28 used it hurt too!

Anyway, wish me luck. Regulators are always a "fun" project.

Just curious, is the 4 way switch in a crew cab the same as the 4 way in a Burb?

 

[da_raabi]

Just curious, is the 4 way switch in a crew cab the same as the 4 way in a Burb?

I sure hope so, because I bought one that said it was from a burb!

The switch arrives today, and hopefully I'll be able to get the window done too. I'll post up results.

 

[75Monza]

Looked at LMC, shows the same part number for Crew cab and Burb.

 

[gmachinz]

I've got an NOS switch and bezel if your used one doesnt work.

 

[da_raabi]

Well it was pretty much that easy! The old regulator slid right out, and the new one went in pretty well. Had to run the motor up/down a little bit with some jumper wires (didn't have the switch yet) to get everything in place, but that was no big deal.

The only thing I ran into was that there is apparently an adapter bracket that connects the motor to the regulator. The Cardone Select motor I had bought did not come with this adapter, so I had to swap out with a different brand that did. Fortunately my local store had one in stock (ACI or something brand) that came with the bracket. And it was $4 cheaper!

Just keep that in mind if anyone does this. If putting together a motor and regulator from separate parts, make sure you get that bracket! Oh, and you will likely need hardware to connect the bracket to the regulator.

Got the switch Saturday. Works like a charm!

Now I just need to do the other side...

 

[74 Shortbed]

I got mine from the Zone, it came with a bracket but it was opposite direction, so I just used the bracket off the old one done deal..

 

[da_raabi]

Here's how things look now that I got the install done.

I decided to install a moisture shield of sorts, hoping it will cut down a bit on humidity in the cab. No idea if it will do anything, but it's just piece of a $6 plastic drop cloth so its not like it was a ton of money!

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And here is a shot of the door panel. The switches are not perfectly aligned, but I'm ok with that. The thick-ass stainless the PO used to make trim was a giant pain in the balls to cut, so this works for me.

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[Honky Kong jr]

That vapor barrier will do more then you think but then again the door acts as part of the ventilation system too. You may get that awsome air bouncing around the cab thing with one window down.

 

[da_raabi]

That vapor barrier will do more then you think but then again the door acts as part of the ventilation system too. You may get that awsome air bouncing around the cab thing with one window down.

Interesting. I didn't have a problem this morning, but then again I've only done one door. I'll be doing the pass door soon because the manual regulator is getting... stiff. I'll be very curious to see if I get the "wumping" once I do all 4 doors.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Interesting. I didn't have a problem this morning, but then again I've only done one door. I'll be doing the pass door soon because the manual regulator is getting... stiff. I'll be very curious to see if I get the "wumping" once I do all 4 doors.

Not trying to piss on your parade but most stuff vents threw the back of the cab or back at the rear bumper on cars. Worse case crack another window.

 

[chengny]

That moisture barrier you made looks good - a nice neat job. Also, in addition to acting as a moisture barrier, it will likely make a significant difference in the degree of noise & heat transfer through the door.

HKJ's observation - about the doors playing an important role in cab ventilation - is correct. But given the way you sized/located the barrier, it won't have any impact on ventilation.

The heat/AC blower is always drawing in fresh air from the outside and discharging it into the cabin. Even when in MAX AC mode, only 90% of the incoming air is recirculated. The fresh air inlet damper under the cowling is designed so that it can't completely close and that opening supplies the remaining 10%.

So (if we disregard MAX AC mode), whatever volume of air that comes out of your dash/heater/defrost vents is is equivalent to the volume of fresh air drawn in from outside. For the HVAC system to work as designed, the cab must have exhaust vents of sufficient capacity to accommodate the volume of fresh air that is flowing into the cab. Obviously, it's not the same air - the new fresh air comes in and pushes the old stale air out - it's just the same volume.

In theory, if all the seams and weather stripping throughout the cab are factory tight, the only way to vent the volume of stale cabin air (equivalent to what is coming in from the registers) is through the doors.

The flow is like this:

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So, my point is - your moisture barrier won't interfere with cab air flow through. Jeezum Crow, that comment was a lot more detailed than necessary. I should've stopped at "nice neat job".