Np208 transfer case brace

[PrairieDrifter]

Does the thing actually do much? It makes it a tight fit for the exhaust so I’m on the fence about removing it. If it doesn’t do much I’ll take it off for the exhaust clearance, the exhaust is right where I pretty much want it. I don’t want it any closer to the frame rail. So at this point the brace is in the way.

Maybe I can bend it away? Or maybe cut it at the end by the trans and modify the eye to sit the opposite way and then weld a sleeve on the outside?

 

[PrairieDrifter]

This guy

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[SDJunkMan]

This guy

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If you aren't talking about the one that goes up to the front of the engine, I would keep it.

The PO of my K20 left that brace and the cast torque converter cover and braces off mine before I got it, and I broke the bellhousing in half. Granted, I used the truck as a snow plow, and was never gentle with it.

 

[QBuff02]

I would move that hangar and modify the exhaust before I'd go removing the truss rods, bad juju generally follows from my experience.

 

[QBuff02]

and I guess another thing, if you wanted to keep the exhaust tube right where it is, you could always heat it up cherry red and "clearance" the tube between the two for the truss rod to get by it and remove the interference. Now, I have full length headers and 2 1/2" tubes on mine, and My exhaust has a few slight bends to get by/around the rod on mine and even though its not ideal, I'd put up with a modified or rebent exhaust tube before anything else. just my .02

 

[hatzie]

You will break bellhousings without that brace. You need it.
I broke a later bell pattern NV4500 Bell before I wised up and installed the NP208C to Bell brace on my 76 K20 6.5L project. I had a small panic attack when I thought it was the engine side cracked on my pristine 1998 6.5L TD block that I'd spent some good money installing a main girdle on.
My M1008 came to me from the DRMO depot without one.
Guess what I replaced along with replacing the missing 27MT starter tail brace?
The 6.xL AMG GM diesels have braces, or truss rods, from the motor mounts to the bellhousing as well. I haven't had the balls to leave them off since my small heart attack over the broken bell. Breaking the thin bell casting area on a working 6.2L or 6.5L block would suck. I would probably consider adding them to a gasser that I intended to plow with or otherwise abuse.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Alright, well looks like it’s gonna be staying and I’ll be modifying the exhaust then lol. I think I might just clearance it, there’s not too much interference goin on.

I also did remove those transmission dust cover braces, because I got different motor mounts. But I’m thinking I should probably get some stuff modified to put those back on.

Thanks for the replies guys

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Mine is bolted right to the frame. Then again it’s all solid mounted.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Mine is bolted right to the frame. Then again it’s all solid mounted.

I think mine had plates that bolted on underneath the motor mounts then they ran from the cover to those plates

 

[Honky Kong jr]

I think mine had plates that bolted on underneath the motor mounts then they ran from the cover to those plates

Originally it would have. One on each side.

 

[rpcraft]

I've been contemplating whether to put mine back on but with the LS swap it's probably going to complicate things. Once I get to my new house and can get the garage set back up to work in I'll dig into it a little more and see what I can fit in. Gonna be nice to be able to zoom around on the creeper with the new 2 car garage!!!!

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[hatzie]

I think mine had plates that bolted on underneath the motor mounts then they ran from the cover to those plates

That's the way mine are.

 

[HotRodPC]

Alright, well looks like it’s gonna be staying and I’ll be modifying the exhaust then lol. I think I might just clearance it, there’s not too much interference goin on.

I also did remove those transmission dust cover braces, because I got different motor mounts. But I’m thinking I should probably get some stuff modified to put those back on.

Thanks for the replies guys

That's the right call. Keep it !!! Orr, figure out something else that serves the same purpose, but I think that one is your best option since trying to figure out a way to anchor the Tcase tot he frame rail will put that directly in the path of your exhaust.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

What do you guys think about fabbing up a new brace and running it straight to the crossmember? Probably a triangular style, still be able to unbolt everything easy if need be. Something in the future probably, I’ll probably change it up a little bit from the H-pipe forward.

I think I’m gonna do headers someday soon I just want a really nice set so I’m saving up. So I’m gonna have to change that pipe up a little bit anyways. So I can get a better fitment then.

For now though I’m fine with “massaging” the pipe in the problem spot lol

 

[Blue Ox]

Unless you solid mount everything to the frame you're probably going to add stress because the engine, transmission and transfer case all move as a unit in the motor mounts. That's also why your exhaust is in flexible mounts. All that stuff wiggles around quite a bit and needs to all move together. Rearranging an exhaust pipe is much easier than re-engineering the powertrain.