No Start and have adjusted switches

[MacAgent]

I’m at the end of the road with this issue. I recently replaced the neutral safety switch due to my 1980 C10 not starting 100% of the time. Well that wasn’t it, as I discovered it was the ignition switch. Replaced it and it started once and the lock cylinder wouldn’t go back to the lock position and no couldn’t get the key out.

Well, I tore into the column and fixed the rack and sector, got everything back in place lined up and followed the instructions with the new ignition switch and neutral safety. Turned the key to the in position, got the buzzer, air circulation etc., but now start. I put the key in accessory mode and nothing. All I want is the truck to start as it was driving perfect prior.

Any help or recommendation on where to go next? It’s a 1980 C10 Custom Deluxe and had tilt steering put in at some point by the original owner.

 

[newguy11]

Have you tested the starter yet? Place the ignition in the th position and jump the solenoid. Simple test to see if that’s your trouble

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-vo...MIp9ShlM3T-gIVtDizAB109QSyEAQYASABEgLAf_D_BwE

 

[MacAgent]

I haven’t, would a bad starter not give me anything when I turn over? It’s dead silence.

 

[newguy11]

No crank Vs No start. it sounds like you are describing a " no Crank" situation. you have battery power and when you attempt to start the truck the engine does not truck over correct? to me this identifies the problem is in the starter circuit between the ignition switch and the starter. the most common issue on any car is the starter / starter solenoid.

the blow video is for a more modern vehicle but the concept is exactly the same

its and easy test and a a relatively simple job to replace a starter.

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[fast 99]

Check for power on the S terminal at the starter with key in start position. Should be purple and closest to the block. Also check the large wire from battery. Should be power there at all times. If powered, replace starter. If not go back under dash and check for power [key in start] at the purple wire at the base of the steering column.

 

[MacAgent]

All I get is the buzz from the dash and the air circulating.

 

[AuroraGirl]

is your Battery to engine ground good? Is your power cable to the starter good? Ive both zapped the power cable in half(Was rigged bad) and about started a bbq with the ground cable from my fender to my battery when the one from the engine was very corroded and barely connected to the battery. But these were not stock cables but jury rigged solutions by my gpa. Show us under hood if you could?

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See the cable with wrap where it gets oddly "big" Thats where I lugged a suitable cable I had onto the lug that is on my power cable to my starter. frankly I just never asked(hes dead anyway) but ill eventually fix it to something more future proof. The heat shield on the first photo is what is probably the original hot cable id say and then the wires for the starter etc.

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Here is my ground cable, a new one which is just a auto store lug-lug cable with a marine post on the battery to accept the lug and then the bracket for the alt to take the cable. The connection on the intake and the (Water pump? Block? Head?) that the bracket uses were cleaned up and the bolts to to ensure a ground path and the alt case ears too. The starter grounds through the engine through that bracket to the battery. Realistically, that wasnt smart, which is why newer vehicles either run a ground to the starter or they ground the block so you dont have the heads, intake, then bracket to corrode or cause bottle necks etc.
The engine should have some straps to the firewall from the heads, and the fender should be grounded to the frame (you can see in my pic earlier)

 

[AuroraGirl]

I’m at the end of the road with this issue. I recently replaced the neutral safety switch due to my 1980 C10 not starting 100% of the time. Well that wasn’t it, as I discovered it was the ignition switch. Replaced it and it started once and the lock cylinder wouldn’t go back to the lock position and no couldn’t get the key out.

Well, I tore into the column and fixed the rack and sector, got everything back in place lined up and followed the instructions with the new ignition switch and neutral safety. Turned the key to the in position, got the buzzer, air circulation etc., but now start. I put the key in accessory mode and nothing. All I want is the truck to start as it was driving perfect prior.

Any help or recommendation on where to go next? It’s a 1980 C10 Custom Deluxe and had tilt steering put in at some point by the original owner.

in your work on the column I think you may have introduced your issue, but dont skip the checks on the grounds. they can be tricky. The easy test you could do is first, verify that the transmission is actually in park. you need to get under the truck and make sure the lever is in the detent of park, before you try what I say next

once you verify its actually in park, key on, chock a wheel for safe measure, jump the starter if you knew how(You could look it up) fords had it easy for that, but basically power the starter because if it works , it should turn over and start. that tells you if its column and related still. Alternatively, check for wires you may have hit, check the column connector, check the fuse panel (never hurts) check the column by tilting and holding the key to crank and then play with it up and down. play with the shift lever but dont hold crank, just try different wiggling and detens and a quick turn to see(foot on brake)
You have plastic fuses, right?

 

[wlwarnke]

I’m guessing the new ignition switch isn’t set properly, so turning the key to crank isn’t pulling the rod far enough.

I say this because it was working fine until you replaced the ignition switch?

Also, the PN switch is built into the column. I don’t think you can even turn the key to crank position if not in PN.

 

[MacAgent]

is your Battery to engine ground good? Is your power cable to the starter good? Ive both zapped the power cable in half(Was rigged bad) and about started a bbq with the ground cable from my fender to my battery when the one from the engine was very corroded and barely connected to the battery. But these were not stock cables but jury rigged solutions by my gpa. Show us under hood if you could?

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

See the cable with wrap where it gets oddly "big" Thats where I lugged a suitable cable I had onto the lug that is on my power cable to my starter. frankly I just never asked(hes dead anyway) but ill eventually fix it to something more future proof. The heat shield on the first photo is what is probably the original hot cable id say and then the wires for the starter etc.

You must be registered for see images attach

Here is my ground cable, a new one which is just a auto store lug-lug cable with a marine post on the battery to accept the lug and then the bracket for the alt to take the cable. The connection on the intake and the (Water pump? Block? Head?) that the bracket uses were cleaned up and the bolts to to ensure a ground path and the alt case ears too. The starter grounds through the engine through that bracket to the battery. Realistically, that wasnt smart, which is why newer vehicles either run a ground to the starter or they ground the block so you dont have the heads, intake, then bracket to corrode or cause bottle necks etc.
The engine should have some straps to the firewall from the heads, and the fender should be grounded to the frame (you can see in my pic earlier)

 

[Matt69olds]

Check for power at the purple wire at the nuetral safety switch with the key in the crank position. There may be 2 purple wires (one solid purple that goes to the starter terminal, the other might be purple with a yellow tracer, those are power FROM the ignition switch. It will come out of the NSS as a purple wire.

If you have no power at the NSS, check for power at the ignition switch, while holding the key in the crank position. Once again, it’s either a yellow wire, or purple with yellow tracer. No power? Either it’s not adjusted right, or the switch is defective.

 

[MacAgent]

In the pictures, I have power from everything but the yellow. On the neutral safety switch, only the yellow and purple have been connected.

The blue and green have been hanging. When the green touched the blue before taking the picture the truck tried to kick over.

I do know for a fact the green hasn t been connected to anything since Ive had it.

Yellow is the only one with no power.

Thoughts?

 

[AuroraGirl]

In the pictures, I have power from everything but the yellow. On the neutral safety switch, only the yellow and purple have been connected.

The blue and green have been hanging. When the green touched the blue before taking the picture the truck tried to kick over.

I do know for a fact the green hasn t been connected to anything since Ive had it.

Yellow is the only one with no power.

Thoughts?

on my manual truck yellow goes to the clutch safety, and the purple wire is on it too, thats my interlock. I have a stock 1980 column. So this is a pic that I think may be a 1980 as well, did a google foir it

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The colors match and are in a connector that go on blade terminals looks like maybe someone put female spades on

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I only found this diagram(which doesnt show the termination of the circuits) but the colors match that too

 

[AuroraGirl]

I just noticed your battery cable connections. Yeah those arent secure looking, the one on the positive looks like its missing something in that stack like the right bolt or spacer. I would peel that rubber off the lug and see if its corroded. Then on your other one, I cant tell if thats a side post lug to begin with. do you have a top post battery you could use? alternative, I suggest getting some marine terminals and side post adapters then making it connect by stacking the lugs of the cables on the marine terminal then connecting with the "normal" way, thats just me tho. if you have a top post or want to make them work as side, you can too. They sell the proper bolts for the side post at the store

 

[Grit dog]

It may be the ignition switch (or you replaced the lock cylinder?) regardless I’d start at the easy stuff and work my way up. Not knowing exactly how or how long the symptoms have persisted.
A bad starter solenoid could be intermittent and no sound. Bad starter is click from the solenoid and no crank. Both are known to maybe work if smacked with a hammer…or rock.
If you turn the key to run or if you suspect the cylinder isn’t pushing the rod far enough on the switch ( which I think you can see? Been 30 years since I’ve worked on a square ignition switch) then key in run, jump the solenoid and see if it starts.
If it starts you’ve eliminated the starter and main battery power to it as issues.
Next try to start it manually with a screwdriver in the ignition switch.
If it starts it’s in the lock cylinder/rod. If not then back to the wiring diagram and chasing wires that @AuroraGirl posted.

That’s a super clean truck though. That’s why I’d equally expect a bad component as much as a short in wiring.