No Start and have adjusted switches

[Scott91370]

I haven’t, would a bad starter not give me anything when I turn over? It’s dead silence.

Yes. Mine would not make any noise and if I held the key in the start position for about 5 seconds it would start smoking.

 

[MacAgent]

I just noticed your battery cable connections. Yeah those arent secure looking, the one on the positive looks like its missing something in that stack like the right bolt or spacer. I would peel that rubber off the lug and see if its corroded. Then on your other one, I cant tell if thats a side post lug to begin with. do you have a top post battery you could use? alternative, I suggest getting some marine terminals and side post adapters then making it connect by stacking the lugs of the cables on the marine terminal then connecting with the "normal" way, thats just me tho. if you have a top post or want to make them work as side, you can too. They sell the proper bolts for the side post at the store

Battery posts are secured as can be. That’s how it’s always ran since the original owner. I’m going to try your recommendations. They’ve been helpful so far.

 

[MacAgent]

Yes. Mine would not make any noise and if I held the key in the start position for about 5 seconds it would start smoking.

Ok, I’ll check that out.

 

[MacAgent]

It may be the ignition switch (or you replaced the lock cylinder?) regardless I’d start at the easy stuff and work my way up. Not knowing exactly how or how long the symptoms have persisted.
A bad starter solenoid could be intermittent and no sound. Bad starter is click from the solenoid and no crank. Both are known to maybe work if smacked with a hammer…or rock.
If you turn the key to run or if you suspect the cylinder isn’t pushing the rod far enough on the switch ( which I think you can see? Been 30 years since I’ve worked on a square ignition switch) then key in run, jump the solenoid and see if it starts.
If it starts you’ve eliminated the starter and main battery power to it as issues.
Next try to start it manually with a screwdriver in the ignition switch.
If it starts it’s in the lock cylinder/rod. If not then back to the wiring diagram and chasing wires that @AuroraGirl posted.

That’s a super clean truck though. That’s why I’d equally expect a bad component as much as a short in wiring.

Good info, I’ll work it tonight.

 

[Matt69olds]

If you have no power on the yellow wire with the ignition in the crank position, you have found the problem. Now you need to find out why.

It’s easy to narrow down the potential problem area with a little detective work.

Disable the ignition, make SURE the trans is in park. Use a heavy gauge jumper wire, jumper from one of the red wires to the yellow wire at the ignition switch, assuming the NSS, starter and other wiring is good the engine should crank. If so, either readjust or replace the ignition switch.

 

[MacAgent]

Forgive my ignorance, which red wire are you talking about?

 

[Matt69olds]

There is probably a couple red wires at the ignition switch, each protected by a different fusible link.