Need a inline fuel pump for Carbed 350, what brand/ part?

[AuroraGirl]

Sorry, what?

self priming unit? which would have a check valve in it

 

[AyWoSch Motors]

self priming unit? which would have a check valve in it

I dont belive it is.

I bought some inline check valves instead, just to be sure.

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[idahovette]

I dont belive it is.

I bought some inline check valves instead, just to be sure.

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Ayden, where did you get them....part #?

 

[BMac Attack]

I’ve been dealing with a dirty fuel tank, I use the WIX 33003, they work great and are see through so you can tell when you have garbage coming through the system.

Wix 33003 (3/8") In-line Fuel Filter, Pack of 4 https://a.co/d/3vmRC25

 

[AyWoSch Motors]

Ayden, where did you get them....part #?

Ebay. 8.99 free ship for 2.

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[AyWoSch Motors]

Ayden, where did you get them....part #?

Ebay. 8.99 free ship for 2.

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[78C10BigTen]

Ebay. 8.99 free ship for 2.

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I need a few of these!

 

[AyWoSch Motors]

I need a few of these!

Helps drainsback on old carburetors

 

[CheemsK1500]

Dang, I may have to get one of those check valves. My K1500 has drain back issues sometimes.

 

[SirRobyn0]

Another thing noteworthy on the drain back stuff. A good strong mechanical pump should be able to fill the system and have your truck running in just a few seconds of cranking. Not saying there isn't value in those drain back valves, but at the shop if I have someone complaining of hard starting cold and the issue is that it's taking forever to get fuel into the float bowl, most often it's a weak pump and replacing it with a good quality pump solves it. Also sometimes a rubber line before the pump with a pinhole in it won't let fuel out but will let a little air in, or a rubber line before the pump collapsing or partially collapsing down, any of that stuff just makes it harder for the pump to fill the float bowl. Again not saying those valves don't have value, as I've never installed or dealt with one just throwing out potentially other useful info.

So I'm curious @AyWoSch Motors do those check valves get installed before or after the pump?

 

[idahovette]

@AyWoSch Motors Thanks Ayden.....you're ok...I don't care what Ted says....lol

 

[AyWoSch Motors]

Another thing noteworthy on the drain back stuff. A good strong mechanical pump should be able to fill the system and have your truck running in just a few seconds of cranking. Not saying there isn't value in those drain back valves, but at the shop if I have someone complaining of hard starting cold and the issue is that it's taking forever to get fuel into the float bowl, most often it's a weak pump and replacing it with a good quality pump solves it. Also sometimes a rubber line before the pump with a pinhole in it won't let fuel out but will let a little air in, or a rubber line before the pump collapsing or partially collapsing down, any of that stuff just makes it harder for the pump to fill the float bowl. Again not saying those valves don't have value, as I've never installed or dealt with one just throwing out potentially other useful info.

So I'm curious @AyWoSch Motors do those check valves get installed before or after the pump?

Before. Id say in both mechanical and electric. If you put the near to the tank, the lines will stay full of gas.
Technically theyd work backwards too, meaning by keeping fuel up stream ahead of it, theyd keep a suction on the fuel downstream, but i know air would find its way in one way or another. Id say closer to the tank the better, but i guess anywhere could work.

 

[boltbrain]

Edit
We can't all be the Mr. Goodwrench that you think you are...

Dude it's a SBC fuel pump..not rock science.
That job could be completed with the "Do it Herself" toolkit.

Why would somebody start doing that without the confidence AND knowledge to complete it?
AND THEN tell everybody on the internet? I think it must have been a joke. When in doubt, use acetylene.

The tool kit however, is not a joke.. my kid sister used to have one - in grade school. Mebbe OP can win the auction!
*torch not included

Good Luck.

Pink Ladies Lightweight "DO IT HERSELF" Home Tool &Hardware Set in Hard Case vtg 780437471955 | eBay

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Rusty Nail read my posts. I said I heated a brand new pump. It had no fuel in it. Your other false assumption was that heat caused the leak. If you had read my post you would know the leak was around the threaded line going to the carb. I only heated the other two ports. Don’t make assumptions out of thin air, it only exposes your mental deficiencies. Like illiteracy. If you had actually addressed the problem I had putting the pump in, instead of being so eager to resort to grade school verbal abuse, you might gain a bit of respect. Where’s your integrity? The only problem I had was getting the cam moved to where the 2 mounting bolts would reach the holes. Your amazing mechanical knowledge totally failed to enlighten us on that.

Putting the timing mark up solved the problem. Using the 3/8” Thread in the front of the block to hold the rod worked well. The Delphi pump works great. I was looking for a quick solution ( electric) on account of working with bare hands in sub zero temps, give a guy a break. To all the helpful contributors: I wrote down the names of those pumps, thanks. And maybe some day I’ll put in a 40 gallon TBI tank with an electric in-tank pump, good idea. Rusty Nail you’re lucky you’re on a very tolerant forum. Most do not suffer your kind of cheap bullying. This moderator should’ve canned you long ago IMO. And by the way, bolts aren’t sized according to head size, rather, by thread OD and length. Careful with the BS

 

[boltbrain]

He got good advice,to my knowledge he didn't follow any of it read#5#7#8#9#11#14

Ricko, I did follow Grit dog’s advice from # 7 and 8. # 5 was my post. Sorry I misunderstood your post # 11, which #14 clarified, but I decided not to check the amount of wear on the lobe because (a) That plate was glued down too good and (b) it was too darn cold. And I didn’t need to use the rod to get the cam lobe right, because I just put the timing mark on the balancer up instead. Thank you for the good info. Next time I have the pump off I’ll remove that plate and see if the lobe moves the rod that 1/2”.

 

[Ricko1966]

Boltbrain if the pumps working no need to check the pushrod movement,I wanted you to check it first. Only because I didn't want you to put a pump on if it wouldn't fix your problem. All well that ends well even if it takes 60 posts. Lol