My 3rd Car, a FREE 1990 Olds Cutlass Supreme

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Replaced the hood release cable and handle (that I broke). Unfortunately, something must be wrong with the latch itself because I closed it, and it still won’t open.

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[bucket]

Have a helper push down on the front of the hood a couple times while you pull the release.

Or does the cable just feel disconnected?

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Have a helper push down on the front of the hood a couple times while you pull the release.

Or does the cable just feel disconnected?

I actually took the trim piece that goes over the handle off and very carefully pulled on the handle, and it popped open. I hit the latch with some PB Blaster, but I don’t know why it’s been acting up. I’ll work with it once I get some stuff done under the hood.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Replacing the fuel tank, sending unit/pump, filter, vapor lines... Used the tow hooks on my mom’s Burb to yank that sucker up on the ramps. Worked out well, plenty of clearance.

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[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Aforementioned job completed successfully as of yesterday. Fuel pump works, and I’m getting good, clean fuel all the way to the rail. Still no start so it’s looking like my injectors are either clogged or totally shot. If they look anything like the tank did, then probably completely rusted up. It’ll still pop off with a shot of ether so I will make sure I’m getting a strong spark. I need to source a set of junkyard injectors, too. I doubt these are realistically reusable if they have any of the same attributes as the tank. At least the fuel system up to that point is back up and running. Here’s what came out of the tank. I’m glad it didn’t suck any of this pure varnish and rust into the lines. That’s after having added three gallons of gas so it was only about two gallons of varnish in there to start with.

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[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Got the golden goose from PAP that should save my fuel system. We’ll see. Got new o rings for it, too. Replaced the nasty, dry rotted serp belt with a fancy, new quiet channel belt that Continental makes.

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[CorvairGeek]

Those first generation Multitech injectors are done at 200K. They were rather trouble prone with fuel damaging the windings, which cause the resistance to go DOWN. Good ones measure right around 12.9 ohms, IIRC. Ones that are lower are dying. They tend to get worse with heat and can intermittently short and shut the engine down in MPFI engine, as the driver circuit is common, vs a SFI engine which splits the banks.

 

[bucket]

Goodyear used to make a belt like that, called gotorback.

You will want to keep an eye on that balancer when you start driving it. The rubber breaks down and the outer ring may start walking right off of the hub. If you want to save some bucks, the later (and very common) 3100/3400 balancer is the same, it just has a reluctor ring on it that will not be used on the older gen2 engines.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Those first generation Multitech injectors are done at 200K. They were rather trouble prone with fuel damaging the windings, which cause the resistance to go DOWN. Good ones measure right around 12.9 ohms, IIRC. Ones that are lower are dying. They tend to get worse with heat and can intermittently short and shut the engine down in MPFI engine, as the driver circuit is common, vs a SFI engine which splits the banks.

Goodyear used to make a belt like that, called gotorback.

You will want to keep an eye on that balancer when you start driving it. The rubber breaks down and the outer ring may start walking right off of the hub. If you want to save some bucks, the later (and very common) 3100/3400 balancer is the same, it just has a reluctor ring on it that will not be used on the older gen2 engines.

I tested them. 5 showed 13.1 on the low scale, and one was at like 12.2 so I guess that’s one that’s dying. I guess I need to take it apart again and replace the one injector before I go the trouble of putting all that junk back together. I’ll also keep an eye on the balancer. I imagine it’s all cracked up anyway so I’ll keep that in mind. I had an oops with it just a moment ago. One of the fuel rail retainer bolts snapped in half when I was fastening it down. It wasn’t cross threaded but it kept on spinning and just popped. How screwed am I here? It’s the one on the upper left side looking at this picture, the one closest to the alternator, which affects only that last injector, also the one that failed the aforementioned resistance test. They’re all seated properly, but I don’t know if vibrations, heat, etc. will make this a hazard and if I can run it as is, I need to do something hopefully less invasive to make it right (like some kind of weight fastened to the end of the rail), or if the hole has to be retapped and all that.

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[Rusty Nail]

Dude!

 

[bucket]

As long as the injectors are fully seated and the other bolts are in, it will be fine. Unless you get a big backfire for some reason, or you boost the thing, there will be zero pressure trying to push the injectors out.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

As long as the injectors are fully seated and the other bolts are in, it will be fine. Unless you get a big backfire for some reason, or you boost the thing, there will be zero pressure trying to push the injectors out.

Okay, yes and yes to both of those. I got a new injector on the way to replace the bad one so I’ll have to pull it out and start over, but that’s where I am with that.

 

[bucket]

Also while you have it apart, it will be very easy to replace the oil pump drive seal. It's where the distributor was on the gen1 engines. Because it WILL start leaking due to age and sitting. The Hi-temp version of the o-ring holds up better, it's brown in color.

 

[CorvairGeek]

Also while you have it apart, it will be very easy to replace the oil pump drive seal. It's where the distributor was on the gen1 engines. Because it WILL start leaking due to age and sitting. The Hi-temp version of the o-ring holds up better, it's brown in color.

Good advice

 

[idahovette]

Also while you have it apart, it will be very easy to replace the oil pump drive seal. It's where the distributor was on the gen1 engines. Because it WILL start leaking due to age and sitting. The Hi-temp version of the o-ring holds up better, it's brown in color.

Good call! it is way easier with that stuff out of the way and if you don't ,it will start leaking 2 minutes after you fire it!!