LS Swap adding OEM cruise control

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TPISly-C10

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somebody here got a LS Swap and adding OEM cruise control? try to do mine and after all the wiring and part install it doesn't work!

Check all my power source, ground, got a good working stalk with all working switsh, TCC hook up good, brake light source good, VSS hook up at my electronic speedo that working fine, change 3 time the cruise module, stap inside is good, cable to the throttle body is done right.....something some where is missing any hepl will be apreciated! :)

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eskimomann209

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Mine is cable driven and she works. what switch are you using?
some switches have the signals wrong and need relays to change em
 

hip2bsquare

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interesting.. I am curious on how you wired the swap? did you use an aftermarket harness? or did you use OG harness?
I was thinking that I would go thru Dakota Digital for my cruise, but may check into what you are thinking as well
 

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You need to make sure you are using the correct VSS output. It should be the same one going to your speedometer, not the output to the ABS.

Also, if you are using the dakota digital or rostra 4-wire cruise control stalk, you need to use several relays to get it to work correctly. Here is a thread on another forum showing how to wire that switch up to a DBW LS swap. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=398006
 

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Some of these systems have the cruise stalk wired to the cruise module. Others are wired to the PCM. Please post what year/model your engine came out of, and do the same for the cruise module you used.
Joe
 

TPISly-C10

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Mine is cable driven and she works. what switch are you using?
some switches have the signals wrong and need relays to change em
i found the problem...i slice the rong green/white wire from the ecm to have VSS signal! ;)
 

TPISly-C10

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interesting.. I am curious on how you wired the swap? did you use an aftermarket harness? or did you use OG harness?
I was thinking that I would go thru Dakota Digital for my cruise, but may check into what you are thinking as well
iv done all the wiring myself save me lots of $$$..it so easy for me since i'm a ex- auto electrical tech (long long time ago lolll) :D

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TPISly-C10

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You need to make sure you are using the correct VSS output. It should be the same one going to your speedometer, not the output to the ABS.

Also, if you are using the dakota digital or rostra 4-wire cruise control stalk, you need to use several relays to get it to work correctly. Here is a thread on another forum showing how to wire that switch up to a DBW LS swap. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=398006
yes find out that 2 green/white wire coming out from the ECM and they close from each other so its easy to be confuse so problem solve...i slice the rong one!! now everything work juste fine and i'm so happy to have this fonction on my old truck! :)

just to know....i used a 1992 Olds Nighty-eigh stalk at the junkyard (all the truck stalk was brooke or too dry they crack easy) fit perfect! :)
 

TPISly-C10

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Some of these systems have the cruise stalk wired to the cruise module. Others are wired to the PCM. Please post what year/model your engine came out of, and do the same for the cruise module you used.
Joe
in fact those unit are very stand alone the "J" wire don't really need to be connect to the ECM, if you have DBC and have access to a VSS and TCC connection any EFI will work! :)

this is quote from a old truck forum: "I made this diagram for Clyde65, but thought others might be able to use it. This is just a schematic drawn to hopefully be a little clearer than the factory service manual. This is how to hook up a factory cruise control module for cable throttle body's. It's really fairly simple, you just need to make sure you get the right module. I personally used one from an Astro van, but mid 90's and up S-10's use the same module. The one you want will NOT have a wire in the "H" terminal of the module plug (see 2nd pic, notice the missing wire in the middle). Once you have that you'll need a 4 prong brake light switch, it will have 2 normally open and 2 normally closed terminals. These can be found in alot of 70's and up GM cars and trucks.

To run the factory cruise you need a 4000 pulse per mile signal. This comes straight out of the PCM, it's the signal to the speedo, radio ect. On a '99 to '02 truck, and F bodies it's the C2 connector (the red one) pin 50 dark green/white. The one at C2 49 is a 128k ppm and is only used for ABS, Don't try to use it.

You'll need a 4 wire cruise control switch to turn it on and off. If you have a '83 or newer column and it has cruise on it, it should be a 4 wire. For older columns that use a single screw to hold the turn signal lever the '81-'82 trucks and vans have a lever that can be converted that will work. I posted a "how to" here. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=cruise+switch

Other than that it's a matter of hooking up the cable to the TB and mounting the module.

This will work on almost any EFI engine that has a 4k PPM speed signal so if you have a TPI, LT1, or LS, all GM's use that signal.

I have this same set up on my own car and have about $50 max in the whole thing, and it works way better than the aftermarket cruise I have on another car. this cruise works flawlessly! set it and it stays there and doesn't fluxuate like the aftermarket."

hope that can help other here! thx everyone! :D
 

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Thanks for checking back in with the fix! I am in the process of reworking my harness and wiring in the cruise control also with the same module. I am swapping a Vortec 454 in using an 0411 ECU, which is why I had all those drawings and links. I bought a complete running and driving 1997 Suburban K2500 as a donor, so I got the cruise control module and wiring with the truck. The only thing I bought extra was the Rostra Cruise control stalk, since it looked very similar to my original 1980 cruise control stalk, but with the 4 control wires.

This just drives home that I need to make sure I draw up a wiring diagram for the complete harness. Then I need to make sure I ring out the complete harness before installing in the truck. I'm an engineer in the aviation industry and have had quite a bit of experience designing and building test harnesses for avionics. We always ring out the harness after construction for just this reason, trying to troubleshoot a problem gets infinitely harder after it's installed.
 

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That's cool you found it. Having automobile electrical in your background helps a bunch too.
 

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I have the same setup, DBW and to me it's much easier than cable driven.
BTW if you have the 81-82 lever, an 83 will provide the 4 wire connections needed and still look factory. 84+ is also 4 wire but has the wiper control as well.
 

Bextreme04

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I have the same setup, DBW and to me it's much easier than cable driven.
BTW if you have the 81-82 lever, an 83 will provide the 4 wire connections needed and still look factory. 84+ is also 4 wire but has the wiper control as well.

Yeah, the OP and mine are both DBC setups. I hear the DBW is way easier to do. Mine is an 80' so I have a single wire stalk currently, and the rostra one was the only setup I could find that retained the factory turn signal look with a 4 wire system that could be adapted to the LS computer.
 

RoryH19

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It was, I'd rather wire.
I simply pulled an 83 stalk and wire harness from donor truck.
 

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