K30 w/hydroboost clutch pedal solution

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HotRodPC

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The factory pedal sets are getting expensive.

I've posted about it in a couple other threads, but I modified an existing clutch pedal for the correct geometry and best of all, it mounts to an original pedal bracket for an auto. Not only was it cheap, it was a much easier install.

Yeah but you're a redneck.
What if he wants it done right and not rednecktified??? But for sure, the Hydro pedal assemblies are getting harder to find. Likely due to NV4500 Swaps. I myself like Z Bar much better, but someone once made sense to me that for a 4x4 with flexing and articulation, a hydro set up would be much better sooo.... I'm still belly aching for a A883 set up that I once had except for clutch pedals. Story of my life, I can want in one hand and **** in the other cuz it'll never happen. FML !!!
 

AuroraGirl

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Yeah but you're a redneck.
What if he wants it done right and not rednecktified??? But for sure, the Hydro pedal assemblies are getting harder to find. Likely due to NV4500 Swaps. I myself like Z Bar much better, but someone once made sense to me that for a 4x4 with flexing and articulation, a hydro set up would be much better sooo.... I'm still belly aching for a A883 set up that I once had except for clutch pedals. Story of my life, I can want in one hand and **** in the other cuz it'll never happen. FML !!!
with enough U joints on your z bar actuation, who needs hydro??!
 

HotRodPC

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with enough U joints on your z bar actuation, who needs hydro??!
I used to street race Muncie M21's and M22's in my 62 C10 and 64 GMC with a Z bar clutch linkage and McLeod clutches. I've driven buddies cars and trucks with hydro clutches and the hydro clutch couldn't keep up with me and I spit the pistons out of the slave cylinders or the pedal didn't return fast enough. I'd take Z bar linkage to race any day over hydro. You can also get air sucked in through the slave cylinder doing that. Not common but it happens. And you can also adjust the clutch if you have enough disk to compensate but then the clutch isn't set where you really want it to race either so pick your poision. Just gimme a Z bar.
 

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I used to street race Muncie M21's and M22's in my 62 C10 and 64 GMC with a Z bar clutch linkage and McLeod clutches. I've driven buddies cars and trucks with hydro clutches and the hydro clutch couldn't keep up with me and I spit the pistons out of the slave cylinders or the pedal didn't return fast enough. I'd take Z bar linkage to race any day over hydro. You can also get air sucked in through the slave cylinder doing that. Not common but it happens. And you can also adjust the clutch if you have enough disk to compensate but then the clutch isn't set where you really want it to race either so pick your poision. Just gimme a Z bar.

AMEN to that!
 

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Check my nv3500 swap thread, you could do what I did for the master to the manual pedals. Been working great for me for around 3 yrs now, maybe 4.
 

Frankenchevy

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I used to street race Muncie M21's and M22's in my 62 C10 and 64 GMC with a Z bar clutch linkage and McLeod clutches. I've driven buddies cars and trucks with hydro clutches and the hydro clutch couldn't keep up with me and I spit the pistons out of the slave cylinders or the pedal didn't return fast enough. I'd take Z bar linkage to race any day over hydro. You can also get air sucked in through the slave cylinder doing that. Not common but it happens. And you can also adjust the clutch if you have enough disk to compensate but then the clutch isn't set where you really want it to race either so pick your poision. Just gimme a Z bar.
My concern is clearing long tubes. I had to get rid of my factory auto linkage because of that. Think that’ll be a problem?
 

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Check my nv3500 swap thread, you could do what I did for the master to the manual pedals. Been working great for me for around 3 yrs now, maybe 4.
So what are the pros/cons to running the hydro TO bearing vs hydro slave/linkage?

Either way, what keeps mud, water etc out of the clutch assembly? The mud part probably doesn’t apply to your truck, but maybe others have a response to that bit...
 

bluex

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So what are the pros/cons to running the hydro TO bearing vs hydro slave/linkage?

Either way, what keeps mud, water etc out of the clutch assembly? The mud part probably doesn’t apply to your truck, but maybe others have a response to that bit...

Pros would be more clearance for the exhaust as you don't have to have room for the slave an all outside the trans. Cons if it needs service your pulling the trans.

I was mainly saying you could follow my pedal an Master setup with an nv4500 too.

I don't follow your last question. The bell housing should keep junk out of the clutch...
 

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I don't follow your last question. The bell housing should keep junk out of the clutch...
Just seemed to me that these openings would allow debris in a truck that spends a large portion of its time in the dirt. Probably not though.
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Frankenchevy

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I ordered a 96+ nv4500, advanced adapters bellhousing, and external slave perch. Should be here in 10 days.

Just need to work out the pedal, master and slave. Also, still kicking around the idea of doing the 208 rebuild myself or paying a shop $1000 to do it... seems steep, but I’m pretty short on time these days.
 

bluex

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Be careful on your clutch selection. If you do the internal throw out bearing you'll need an matching pressure plate. I found that out the hard way...
 

Frankenchevy

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Be careful on your clutch selection. If you do the internal throw out bearing you'll need an matching pressure plate. I found that out the hard way...
I purchased the Advance Adapters bellhousing for a drivers side external slave this afternoon.
 

HotRodPC

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My concern is clearing long tubes. I had to get rid of my factory auto linkage because of that. Think that’ll be a problem?
I had headers with my Z bar. All depends on the header routing. Mine looked kinda like a Tri Y to the center, then 90 degreed under the Z bar rod but just to the outise of the lever to the clutch fork rod.
 

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I had headers with my Z bar. All depends on the header routing. Mine looked kinda like a Tri Y to the center, then 90 degreed under the Z bar rod but just to the outise of the lever to the clutch fork rod.
My exhaust wouldn’t clear my th400 linkage. That’s where my concern was from.
 

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