Is a 2wd 4L60E worth the trouble?

[HotRodPC]

I'm not an old dog yet then. I learn or hear of trick almost everyday. You're right, the Zpak has more clutch surface (not clutch material), but the amount of clutch pack surface isn't the problem. The problem is heat in the pack and coning of steels and clutches. So it makes more sense to put something in the pack that will tolerate the heat and help discipate the heat.

 

[oneluckypops]

I'm not an old dog yet then. I learn or hear of trick almost everyday. You're right, the Zpak has more clutch surface (not clutch material), but the amount of clutch pack surface isn't the problem. The problem is heat in the pack and coning of steels and clutches. So it makes more sense to put something in the pack that will tolerate the heat and help discipate the heat.

Exactly, thinner metal will disapate the heat faster then thicker. Even the Alto's will cone, the problem there is not the material used in the clutches and steels, rather it is the cushion springs that cause the coneing.

More surface area generates more holding power, which will translate to less slippage (heat).

 

[Christian Nelson]

Yikes..

Well, I haven't gotten the service update, but it was my understanding from reading about it, that they had changed this in the updated ATSG supplement manual. I did not read it, as I don't have it so I cannot confirm it for sure, but that was what I found when looking around about info on this tranny.

Here's some info from PATC http://www.transmissioncenter.net/competition.htm

They obviously have strong opinions about stuff, but I like to read what builders have to say, with a multitude of counselors, there is safety (and a lot of disagreement I have found) I read them all, and try to make a descision based on the explanations, if I can understand them..

I used these guys, and bulk part for my parts, and did a lot of reading..

What I ended up deciding was to use the Sonnax boost valve, Transgo separator plate, and pinless accumulators, corvette servo, and updated intermediate servo, along with a master kit with the Alto red clutch pack. Also, for some reason my pressure manifold came all apart when I took it off the valve body, it was like the plastic was brittle, just cracked all up, you guys ever see that before? The orings, and plastic vovers for the electronic buttins all stayed on the valve body, and the rest like cracked up, so I bought another one. Looked like I might be able to reuse it if I put the orings back in place, but I didn't want to take a chance on it leaking..

Now, I did not think about buying new springs for the 3-4 clutch pack, maybe I should do that before I button it all up. I am in the middle of re-assembly, yes, I am slow, I take my time, and I only have about a 1/2 hour per night (3 kids that I read to and put to bed, since this is the only time I see them all day- then it's me and wife time) and most of that time get's taken up looking for where I set down that screwdriver or whatever .. You guys really think new springs are needed? I am figuring I am pretty much overkilling this thing as it is, since it clearly got fried by being low on fluid, and only the 3-4 clutch pack was bad. I just nuked and paved I guess

 

[StuB]

Well, I think I'm just going to do a yard pull then and forget aboutre-using my 4L60E.

I have no idea about what transfer case I have. I'll try to get a picture of it posted up sometime soon.

 

[crazy4offroad]

1986 should be NP208 or NP241. There should be a tag on the back that says what it is.

 

[HotRodPC]

or some reason I'm thinking 87 was first year for NP241C.

 

[RetroC10Sport]

1989.

 

[HotRodPC]

1989.

10-4

 

[89Suburban]

1989.

Yes, I am here...

 

[RetroC10Sport]

 

[WHEELMAN]

YOU GUYS CRACK ME UP ON THIS 4L60E CRAP-ALL OF THEM ARE BREAKING AND GOING OUT..but you cant figure out..why they broke..THEY ARE ALL DEFECTIVE

CANT YOU GET THAT..gm spent years trying to straighten them out.even changing to another transmission..the 4l80e.why..the 4l60e.could not be.made right..when you pull one apart.you do not know what is in it..or what has been changed out..

you will have to eye ball each part and look up the upgraded parts.on line.why do you think.they had to come out with all the upgraded parts.for the 4l60e.from front to back

but what will it cost you too..buy each part.it would make more sense.to buy a built 4l80e-it holds more fluid.i would buy that electric cooler set up..i am sure they run high temps..

i do not know.anything about the new ones.if the heat and oiling problems are gone.i am sure.they have every up graded part that could be.put in them.i do not know if they are adaptable..to what we have..

i would put my money..in a built tb400 trans..short shaft.if you get too many rpm,s you can change out the rear gears..

you could get a 4l60e.from some where.strip it down..and it may look good.because.some time before you got it.some parts were replaced in it.will you be able.to tell the new stuff from the old.if you are not a rebuilder.

i bet not.i know one thing..FOR SURE.if you build one.of these defective trans..you better.know what you are doing for real..front to back..do not fail too buy it all..the replacement parts..or you are going to just throw..all your dollars..that you put in it..away.

one little...part-will trash your work..

 

[crazy4offroad]

 

[WHEELMAN]

i just watched that you tube tear down.of the 4l60e trans..there are a lot of parts in that trans..i did not see where the case had any wear.i want to see the tear down for the 4l80e.see what that looks like..i know in anything..too many moving parts..is not good..and the thing even has electronics..in the pan

i want to see what the new replacement looks like..not sure what they call it..i liked the way the guy took a screw driver to the seals.in stead of using a seal puller..thought that was funny..high tech stuff there..

 

[oneluckypops]

Yikes..

Well, I haven't gotten the service update, but it was my understanding from reading about it, that they had changed this in the updated ATSG supplement manual. I did not read it, as I don't have it so I cannot confirm it for sure, but that was what I found when looking around about info on this tranny.

Here's some info from PATC http://www.transmissioncenter.net/competition.htm

They obviously have strong opinions about stuff, but I like to read what builders have to say, with a multitude of counselors, there is safety (and a lot of disagreement I have found) I read them all, and try to make a descision based on the explanations, if I can understand them..

I used these guys, and bulk part for my parts, and did a lot of reading..

What I ended up deciding was to use the Sonnax boost valve, Transgo separator plate, and pinless accumulators, corvette servo, and updated intermediate servo, along with a master kit with the Alto red clutch pack. Also, for some reason my pressure manifold came all apart when I took it off the valve body, it was like the plastic was brittle, just cracked all up, you guys ever see that before? The orings, and plastic vovers for the electronic buttins all stayed on the valve body, and the rest like cracked up, so I bought another one. Looked like I might be able to reuse it if I put the orings back in place, but I didn't want to take a chance on it leaking..

Now, I did not think about buying new springs for the 3-4 clutch pack, maybe I should do that before I button it all up. I am in the middle of re-assembly, yes, I am slow, I take my time, and I only have about a 1/2 hour per night (3 kids that I read to and put to bed, since this is the only time I see them all day- then it's me and wife time) and most of that time get's taken up looking for where I set down that screwdriver or whatever .. You guys really think new springs are needed? I am figuring I am pretty much overkilling this thing as it is, since it clearly got fried by being low on fluid, and only the 3-4 clutch pack was bad. I just nuked and paved I guess

YES I STRONGLY suggest REPLACING the boost springs, The Heat inside the transmission will take the spring tension out of it. Even if you think they still have good tension to it when they heat it from driving they loose it. I strongly suggest you watch the video for the valvebody tear down and inspection, it shows you how to check the bores for wear.

YOU GUYS CRACK ME UP ON THIS 4L60E CRAP-ALL OF THEM ARE BREAKING AND GOING OUT..but you cant figure out..why they broke..THEY ARE ALL DEFECTIVE

CANT YOU GET THAT..gm spent years trying to straighten them out.even changing to another transmission..the 4l80e.why..the 4l60e.could not be.made right..when you pull one apart.you do not know what is in it..or what has been changed out..

you will have to eye ball each part and look up the upgraded parts.on line.why do you think.they had to come out with all the upgraded parts.for the 4l60e.from front to back

but what will it cost you too..buy each part.it would make more sense.to buy a built 4l80e-it holds more fluid.i would buy that electric cooler set up..i am sure they run high temps..

i do not know.anything about the new ones.if the heat and oiling problems are gone.i am sure.they have every up graded part that could be.put in them.i do not know if they are adaptable..to what we have..

i would put my money..in a built tb400 trans..short shaft.if you get too many rpm,s you can change out the rear gears..

you could get a 4l60e.from some where.strip it down..and it may look good.because.some time before you got it.some parts were replaced in it.will you be able.to tell the new stuff from the old.if you are not a rebuilder.

i bet not.i know one thing..FOR SURE.if you build one.of these defective trans..you better.know what you are doing for real..front to back..do not fail too buy it all..the replacement parts..or you are going to just throw..all your dollars..that you put in it..away.

one little...part-will trash your work..

You know what "cracks me up". Its people giving bad advise about a transmission when they have NEVER even TORN one apart. FYI GM did NOT replace the 4L60E with the 4L80E.
The 4L80E was added into production for the heavier duty 3/4, and 1 ton trucks. I would have thought with all the "research" you have done that you would have understood why they have the name that they have, Evidently NOT. 4L60E stands for:
4 is Forward Gears
L is Longitude
60 is 6000 pounds
E is ELECTRONIC
The 4L80E is the same except the 80 means 8000 pounds.

Another thing it doesnt make a damn rather its a TH350, TH400, 700R4, 4L60E, 4L80e, Allison, ANY transmission REQUIRES Excellent workmanship, It only take 1 mistake to ruin ANY Transmission.

My advise to you is quit posting bad advise about something you Obviously have NO experience with. Heres to your defective Transmission

 

[oneluckypops]

Christian

It is not uncommon for the electronics inside the transmission to become brittle, You should ALWAYS atleast test them, any of the solenoids that are PWM REPLACE you can not air test them only ohms testing so there not worth the chance.

The other ON/OFF solenoids can be tested with a multi-meter, as well as air testing. Hook power and ground to them then supply air pressure to the end of them and remove the negative wire listen to see if you can hear the difference in air flow, It is normal to hear some air back pressure but a good solenoid is easilly recognized.