I don't have too much experience building trannys, I have rebuilt a few manual ones, and I used to work for a transmission shop where I was the guy who removed the transmission, tore it down, put the parts in the cleaner, and re-installed it for the builder, and then he'd test drive it with the gadgets and doohickies to make sure his pressure was good, etc..
I also worked for Catco rebuilding rear ends and Transmissions for over the road trucks, again, mostly in the teardown. Ended up breaking a finger ther when a chain hoist gave way and a differential carrier fell on my hand. The hook broke clean off, and I was wearing gloves, and was a fraid to take my glove off because it felt like my finger wasn't attached anymore..
This 4L60E is my first full rebuild, though I tend to do a lot of research on the stuff before I tackle something. I am currently a computer hardware technician, I repair and maintain the network, the switches, the printers, the telephones, fax machines, and computers for a private college campus, so I am used to taking things into bitty pieces and putting them back together again.
Anyhow, My reading on the 4L60E and memory about the 700r4 matches up with the 3-4 being a problem area. Many fixes have been tried, but I liked PATC's explanation best, so I went with the Alto Red clutches with Kolene steels (apparently the Kolene doesn't warp as easy with the heat, reducing the risk of coning- which is exactly what my 3-4 pack did) the separator plate issue I remember with a lot of tranny's (ahem, Dodge Caravan) and pressure drops from wear in bores of valve bodies being a common occurance, along with Sonnax pretty much having a solution to almost all of them.
Check out PATC's website, they have a lot of info on upgrading tranny's, and a fairly decent pricing. I for example got the master rebuild kit with steels and clutches, and Alto Red for the 3-4 for $160. They really explain things well I thought. The why you'd do this rather than that stuff for example.
In my research, I found that ATSG no longer recommends to remove the return springs on the 3-4 pack, since it tends to cause dragging of the clutches, and slow release (as you mentioned) which is sorta like riding the clutch in a manual. Another common cause is the check ball going from the servo into the 3-4 leaking.
So, in short, I've torn a few apart, put some back together, had them work, but never as a "pro". I am fine with doing my own stuff, but reluctant to do things like this for others for money. If someone wants me to help them, I will,but when I start charging, then there's an expectation that I will drop everything and make it right, which I cannot do, so if they aren't out anything, I will get to it when I can, but it seems to keep my life a bit less dramatic this way. Though, you do still get the occasional jerk who's mad because the free work you did for them on their car didn't catch ALL of the things wrong with their car, even though you said to be safe, you'd do this, and they declined.. That's a whole different story I guess LOL..
Stub, my recommendation, if you really wanna keep your engine and electronic shifting, go to a u pull it, get a 96 or newer Suburban, or Tahoe, etc and pull the tranny out of that. Keep yours for parts and stuff. IF you watch that video, and feel brave enough to tear down the tranny to change the tail shaft, you probably can do that too, It isn't rocket science, even though the Haynes manuals and so forth try to make it out to be some sort of magic, it's just parts that spin and move and slide, just like every other part on your vehicle.