Intake Manifold Install

[Mango]

I am pulling the Intake Manifold off to replace the gaskets and other parts while it is off!
Had a oil sample come back and the potassium lever was steady at 13 to 14 now 49 must be leaking!!!
Cylinder at top dead center compression stroke before pullling the Dist? is this manadatory

Any tips would Great, First time doing this
Thanks

 

[DoubleDingo]

#1 TDC is not mandatory, but it makes things much easier. No matter what you do make sure to mark where the rotor is in relation to the distributor as it will get you right back to, or near the timing it was set at before pulling the distributor. And, of course, make sure the rotor is pointing in the same direction it was when it was pulled, and the plug wires go back in the same firing order, and don't rotate then engine while everything is apart.

 

[Mango]

Thanks
PB Blaster on the Bolts now Plain on doing the project on Friday
Just did a oil change looks like that will be changed after the install, should i also replace the filter?
Best RTV?

 

[DoubleDingo]

If you just changed the oil, the filter is okay. Don't use blue or red rtv. I use black or grey, and I only use the rtv on the corners and the front and back. I use copper coat on the side gaskets. Others have their preferences, that is mine. Mainly you don't want leaks of any kind.

 

[75gmck25]

I put the engine at TDC and then pulled my distributor cap off to ensure it was pointing at #1 (left all the wires on the cap). Then I used a small paint brush to put a white line on the distributor to show exactly where the rotor was pointing. Makes it all much simpler when you reinstall.

Check all the intake manifold bolts and make sure you don’t have more than one length. The inner bolts go through the head into the lifter valley, so they must be sealed with rtv, but exact length is not critical. The corner bolts go into a blind hole, so if they are too long or the hole is filled with rtv or other junk, you may get a false torque reading.

 

[fast 99]

Aim the dist rotor at firewall. Then with a magic marker put a line on the firewall where it is pointing. During assembly usually the dist will not go all the way back down and engage the oil pump. With a long screwdriver may need to turn the shaft. If the intake and dist are original many times, there is a chisel mark in back. Line those up timing will be almost perfect.

 

[waterpirate]

That efin original dizzy on my 87 can kiss my A$$! Could not get it back in to save my life. Bought a replacement and low and behold, it was tapered on the bottom to slip right in. The original was as square on the bottom of the shaft as the rest of the truck, lol
Eric

 

[Mango]

Thanks for the Replies
Touque Specs 25, 35? Ft Lbs

 

[Sgt Gus]

How do we move engine to TDC or line up on firewall? Put in neutral and then move fly wheel? I'm looking at replacing my intake with Edelbrock.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Thanks for the Replies
Touque Specs 25, 35? Ft Lbs

I believe it's 30 ft lb

 

[DoubleDingo]

How do we move engine to TDC or line up on firewall? Put in neutral and then move fly wheel? I'm looking at replacing my intake with Edelbrock.

Some bump the starter. I prefer using the flywheel turning tool. It grabs the flywheel/flex plate teeth and you can easily rotate the engine. Doing it alone you have to get up and down to check the compression stroke on #1, but it's not that bad. If you a second person they can put their finger over the hole and feel for the air to get pushed past their finger, and then you line up the mark to zero.

 

[Sgt Gus]

Some bump the starter. I prefer using the flywheel turning tool. It grabs the flywheel/flex plate teeth and you can easily rotate the engine. Doing it alone you have to get up and down to check the compression stroke on #1, but it's not that bad. If you a second person they can put their finger over the hole and feel for the air to get pushed past their finger, and then you line up the mark to zero.

Cool, I did some you tubing. I have both fly wheel tool and bump starter I used on my boat.
It has been awhile since I have rebuilt anything at 15 other than fixing/replacing a lot of stuff.

It has a TBI distributor which is very new. Cool set-up for my daughter.

 

[Bextreme04]

I'm doing the same thing in the next few days. You already have a running engine, so lining up TDC on #1 is stupid easy, just mark the distributor base where the #1 post is on the cap. Then pull the cap and turn the engine over until the rotor is pointing mostly in that direction. Then manually turn the motor over until the line on the balancer is on 0 on the timing tab. Now you are at TDC on #1. Mark the rotor position on the distributor base and then mark another fixed position on the intake or firewall to reference the distributor base to, now you can pull the distributor and reinstall with no issues.

Use either black or Gray permatex Ultra RTV. DO NOT USE RTV on the bolt threads. Use a PTFE thread sealant or similar. RTV is not meant to seal threads and is a nightmare to clean up if you need to remove and replace it at some point in the future. Some people like to spread a thin layer of RTV around the coolant passages too before pressing the intake gasket down into it, just to make sure you get a good seal.

 

[Mango]

Well its done have not started the engine yet draining the oil over night, however kinked the right fuel line during removal, not too bad but what could go wrong???

 

[PrairieDrifter]

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