I learn something every day, but not today....

[CRM]

I'm getting all the indications of the EGR valve sticking, so I decided to just order a new one. This is where the fun started. I have an '85 GMC K2500 with a 350. I've been under the impression that it's a VIN L engine according to everything I've researched. When trying to order a new valve I kept getting all different kinds of part numbers. I decided to locate the ID number on the front of the engine. After scraping, wire brushing, and scour padding the front of that beast, I found the engine has two different things stamped on the plate. V0307FMH and TFF717255. The FMH says it's an '85 Vin L. The TFF says it's an '82 Vin L. I'm going to hold off ordering the part until I get some input from my friends here.

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[Radiohead]

Oh holy crap man

 

[animal]

To me the VO number looks like the original stamping, The TFF looks like a "re stamp" which does not make sense.

 

[AyWoSch Motors]

I'm getting all the indications of the EGR valve sticking, so I decided to just order a new one. This is where the fun started. I have an '85 GMC K2500 with a 350. I've been under the impression that it's a VIN L engine according to everything I've researched. When trying to order a new valve I kept getting all different kinds of part numbers. I decided to locate the ID number on the front of the engine. After scraping, wire brushing, and scour padding the front of that beast, I found the engine has two different things stamped on the plate. V0307FMH and TFF717255. The FMH says it's an '85 Vin L. The TFF says it's an '82 Vin L. I'm going to hold off ordering the part until I get some input from my friends here.

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Go with the V0307FMH. That's your block suffix code. The second smaller one is the partial vin. The last 6 digits are the sequential serial number that should match your VIN on the truck. The TFF are letters that are in your VIN, but don't read them directly, they're off. They only uses a few digits from the vin, not all so they're not in order. They only used what they needed.

 

[SirRobyn0]

If you can't figure out which valve is the proper valve, using the block numbers, you can take the old one off, if it happens to be the original or an ACDelco replacement there should be a number stamped into it, that can be crossed into the proper aftermarket unit. IIRC it's stamped in the base. Also I would not sweat the specific part numbers on the EGR valve to much. If the truck is carbureted get one for a carbed truck, if it's TBI get one for a TBI truck. That's the most important thing. I've certainly run into situations on older vehicles, (to be honest mainly 70's and 80's Chryslers trucks and vans) Where there are so many part #'s and the only suggestion is to go off the OE part number printed on the EGR valve, but it's already been replaced with an aftermarket EGR valve. The biggest difference between valves made for the same fuel delivery type is going to be flow rate, which could slightly effect your cruise emissions if you pick the wrong one, but there won't be enough difference to effect runablity.

 

[CRM]

Thank you Ayden and Rob. I have the GM part number off the EGR and found a WVE brand on Rockauto that lists that part number as compatible. It was the only one I could find in the search that listed the correct part number. I also find it interesting that it's listed as being for California Emissions.

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[SirRobyn0]

@CRM Well it could be a California truck? Also sometimes if they have to many California vehicles built they will sell them in other states.

 

[rt66paul]

A few states require Ca standards on the new vehicle sold in state.

 

[SirRobyn0]

A few states require Ca standards on the new vehicle sold in state.

Your right about that today, but back in the 80's? I know New Jersey made some tougher rules at one point, but I think it was well after his truck was built...