Hub and rotor help

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Tbonesteak

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2024
Posts
5
Reaction score
4
Location
Kentucky
First Name
TOM
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
Scottsdale K20
Engine Size
350
I recently purchased a 86 scottsdale k20 and have been redoing suspension replaced balljoints,tierods, spindles, calipers everything but hubs and rotors. I did replace hub seals and bearings, etc. Took it for a spin before I get an alignment and not any difference yet. My question is on the hub and rotor is there supposed to be play between the two? I have like a quarter inch of space, it looks like the lugs are all the way in. I just wanted some help here before I go any farther. I didn't know if they should be tight or not. Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance from someone who's first time rebuilding one!!! Lol
 

Grit dog

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Posts
6,599
Reaction score
11,385
Location
Auburn, Washington
First Name
Todd
Truck Year
1986, 1977
Truck Model
K20, C10
Engine Size
454, 350
What do you mean by “no difference”? What condition are you looking to still correct? What makes you think you need hubs and rotors? If they spin fine and rotors aren’t warped or otherwise trashed, idk why one would replace them.
I don’t have photographic memory of the last time I took the front end apart on a K20 but I’ll assume if you found it that way on a working truck then it’s probably fine.
 

Tbonesteak

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2024
Posts
5
Reaction score
4
Location
Kentucky
First Name
TOM
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
Scottsdale K20
Engine Size
350
I wasn't asking about the difference, I do know I need to get it aligned first to see a difference. If it was driving fine I wouldn't have just put new everything but hubs and rotors on it!! My question was about the hub and rotors because when I took off to change everything else I noticed the rotor would clank against hub and it had a quarter inch of play, gap in it, I don't know if that's normal? But no the truck is or was not driving when I bought it!!!!
 

Turbo4whl

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2019
Posts
3,033
Reaction score
6,973
Location
Downingtown, PA
First Name
Wayne
Truck Year
1974
Truck Model
Jimmy
Engine Size
350
The rotor should never be loose. On some hub rotor assemblies the studs pressed in hold the rotor tight. On another style the rotor sits on the studs and when you bolt the wheel on, the wheel and lug nuts hold the rotor tight, no movement.
 

Tbonesteak

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2024
Posts
5
Reaction score
4
Location
Kentucky
First Name
TOM
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
Scottsdale K20
Engine Size
350
The rotor should never be loose. On some hub rotor assemblies the studs pressed in hold the rotor tight. On another style the rotor sits on the studs and when you bolt the wheel on, the wheel and lug nuts hold the rotor tight, no movement.
Thanks. There's no movement on it now that it's back on the truck but when I took off I could hold rotor and shake it and thus was bouncing a quarter inch off of it. Thank you I just wanted to make sure it was supposed to be like that.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
43,515
Posts
937,069
Members
35,397
Latest member
sqrbdy
Top