How can i separate my rotor from hub? Looks like its all one piece need help!

[bucket]

Yes, they are cheap junk too. My 2 cents: I know it's hard to find someone to resurface those rotors. Clean and inspect your bearings and races. Pack the bearings with quality grease. New grease seal and put those rotor/hubs back on and run them. Burnish the new brake pads, truck will stop fine!

Please elaborate on 'burnish' the brake pads. Do you mean a proper break-in?

 

[Turbo4whl]

Please elaborate on 'burnish' the brake pads. Do you mean a proper break-in?

Yes. Each truck manufacture lists their procedure for brake "break-in". Brake manufacture Meritor, who makes lots of brakes for many vehicles lists their burnish procedure as two high speed stops with cooling time in between. I have found this works well for almost all new brake pads and shoes.

I use the highway, pick an off ramp that is not busy, (no one following me off) and haul the truck down from 60MPH to 30 or less MPH as quick as I can. Off the highway (cooling time) and get back on and do it again.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Yes, they are cheap junk too. My 2 cents: I know it's hard to find someone to resurface those rotors. Clean and inspect your bearings and races. Pack the bearings with quality grease. New grease seal and put those rotor/hubs back on and run them. Burnish the new brake pads, truck will stop fine!

Most auto store chains im pretty sure offer turning rotors.. but my local oreillies did it for someone once, and my god their lathe machine thingy needed new bits or something because the rotors had no reflective surface left on the faces and the surface was a rough and bumpy but relatively flat surface. something tells me that means its horribly under-maintenanced? or maybe the finish cut isnt there?

 

[Turbo4whl]

Most auto store chains im pretty sure offer turning rotors.. but my local oreillies did it for someone once, and my god their lathe machine thingy needed new bits or something because the rotors had no reflective surface left on the faces and the surface was a rough and bumpy but relatively flat surface. something tells me that means its horribly under-maintenanced? or maybe the finish cut isnt there?

This is my point exactly. No one asks to have rotors or drums cut now. The old established stores have people that knew how to cut a rotor. Now the same people at chain stores that don't know how to lookup a part in a book, are the same people who will try to cut a rotor. They can't do that either.

 

[idahovette]

I kept most of my machines when I closed my shop. I have my Accuturn brake lathe and still do my own when needed. I also do some friends rotors and drums for a small fee. Helps me pay for my lights and heat......win/win. It's NOT a science, but it does take some experience and common sense........sadly lacking with some of today's people!!!!

 

[Turbo4whl]

@bucket

People also ask


How to properly burnish brakes?



What happens if you don't burnish brakes?


Put simply, you'll have less braking power. Skipping the brake burnishing procedure means your rotors won't be coated with brake pad material. At the same time, the pads might not have conformed to the shape of the rotor, which can result in uneven braking, noisy braking, or inaccurate brake feel.

 

[bucket]

@bucket

People also ask


How to properly burnish brakes?



What happens if you don't burnish brakes?


Put simply, you'll have less braking power. Skipping the brake burnishing procedure means your rotors won't be coated with brake pad material. At the same time, the pads might not have conformed to the shape of the rotor, which can result in uneven braking, noisy braking, or inaccurate brake feel.

I thought that's what you meant, but I wasn't positive. My standard break-in procedure is similar to yours.

Typically, I do a couple light and easy stops, followed by a couple higher speed and higher pedal pressure stops, with a break in between. During those stops, I make sure not to come to a complete stop and hold the brakes at a stand still. California stops I guess you would call it.

 

[AuroraGirl]

There was a feller on this forum not long ago.. maybe it was gmt400... who is very insistent than brake burnishing is a lie pushed by Big Friction for the purpose of (??????). He never actually could say why its pushed but insisted that it must be in bad faith anyway.


Without claiming that the procedure causes the brakes to wear faster.. (the opposite being true)... and without the need for special equipment.. I dont see how there is an incentive for there be such a widespread and deep running Psyop about burnishing brake pads/frictions.


ALL the oems require it, have TSBs on it, and all the service manuals say WHY its done and Ive seen videos that show but maybe dont prove the reason as well... idk, to me, it makes sense. and its easy, so I dont see how its not true.

 

[Turbo4whl]

There was a feller on this forum not long ago.. maybe it was gmt400... who is very insistent than brake burnishing is a lie pushed by Big Friction for the purpose of (??????). He never actually could say why its pushed but insisted that it must be in bad faith anyway.


Without claiming that the procedure causes the brakes to wear faster.. (the opposite being true)... and without the need for special equipment.. I dont see how there is an incentive for there be such a widespread and deep running Psyop about burnishing brake pads/frictions.


ALL the oems require it, have TSBs on it, and all the service manuals say WHY its done and Ive seen videos that show but maybe dont prove the reason as well... idk, to me, it makes sense. and its easy, so I dont see how its not true.

Taylor, where you can really tell the difference between burnishing the brakes and not doing it is on the larger trucks. F550's rated at 19,000 lbs and up through all the brands, you can tell the difference by the seat of your pants, and the more solid pedal feel.

On lighter units, the brakes will burnish themselves eventually, but you may not achieve the pad contour. That is what the O.P. of this thread should do so the new pads match the radial groves in the rotor. That way front braking will be even. I burnish every set of brakes I install even on the F*** Escape P.O.S.'s.

@Quinn_Hanifan

 

[AuroraGirl]

@idahovette i see you lurking in the shadows, speak now!!!!

You have something to say and we must know what it is.

 

[Turbo4whl]

@idahovette i see you lurking in the shadows, speak now!!!!

You have something to say and we must know what it is.

I think Perry said it all by liking the posts I made about brake burnishing. He even laughed about the Escapes. The Transits I service are even worse than the Escapes, stupid, batteries under the driver's seat, how lame.

 

[idahovette]

@Turbo4whl yup you said it Wayne^^^^^^^^^^^ Also @AuroraGirl sometimes it's better for me to keep my mouth shut!!!!!!.........lol

 

[bucket]

So I'm curious now if the "burnishing" term is a regional thing. I've always heard it called "bedding" the brakes.

And @Turbo4whl yeah I can see how lighter vehicles tend to burnish on their own, especially considering the way most people drive now. Drive fast, tailgate, slam on the brakes and roll through stop signs, lol.

 

[Old Guy Bill]

“Burnishing” the shoes of drum brakes is from way back in the day.. and is still advised for trailers, especially large heavy RVs.
I do it after a brake rebuild on my fifthwheel trailer.
Disc brakes, I’m sure it’s advised but probably hardly ever done in todays world.

 

[Turbo4whl]

So I'm curious now if the "burnishing" term is a regional thing. I've always heard it called "bedding" the brakes.

And @Turbo4whl yeah I can see how lighter vehicles tend to burnish on their own, especially considering the way most people drive now. Drive fast, tailgate, slam on the brakes and roll through stop signs, lol.

It is probably currently, a medium duty truck term.