How many times can wires flex?

[PhotonFanatic]

I'm referring to the wires that go from the cab, into the doors. How many times can a wire flex before the copper finally breaks? One would assume that it's an awful lot. I recently wired up some new stuff in my doors, and I had to create new wiring, I wasn't able to use what GM had already placed there. Still, you begin to question these things at some point. Maybe they'll never break. I just used 14 gauge braided automotive wire. Thanks!

 

[Camar068]

I'm referring to the wires that go from the cab, into the doors. How many times can a wire flex before the copper finally breaks? One would assume that it's an awful lot. I recently wired up some new stuff in my doors, and I had to create new wiring, I wasn't able to use what GM had already placed there. Still, you begin to question these things at some point. Maybe they'll never break. I just used 14 gauge braided automotive wire. Thanks!

something like that you want to make sure you "guide" it and not "anchor" it. As in Nascar steering, Let it go where it wants to go and "guide" it there and not "force" it there (nascar ref for tire wear). I'm gonna guess a quarter/half a loop may add some "spring" to it to add life to it. I'd think the more "free" it is, the better.

Also, strand count would make a huge difference....flexibility wise and current capacity wise.

Just a few things that rattled in my head when I read your post.

 

[SirRobyn0]

IDK, but if it's a Ford Taurus door or the rear hatch on an explorer I'd say about twice.

A LOT of vehicles have wires that either flex at the back hatch or in the door. And I've had to troubleshoot and repair those wires plenty of times on various cars and trucks. I would say that they are just regular standard wires, but I think you are better off with the thinnest wire that will do the job. If you take a piece of 12 gauge, and piece of 20 gauge the 20 will be much more flexible, flex tighter and easier.

I'm sure what you have done will be just fine.

 

[Camar068]

and also, there are different types of wire.....cheap vs good. Sorry I don't have the time, but if you look up 12 awg wire on amazon, you'll see a HUGE variance in price.

I forget what it is, but one is half the price over the other (same rating) because of the material used to make the wire. Someone chime in if they know it off hand, otherwise I'll research it tomorrow.

 

[Camar068]

found it quick. It's Copper Clad Aluminum (CCA) Link below:

Copper Clad Aluminum Wire

 

[Camar068]

@bucket

Little bit a of Science:

well crap during this search I found this chart of

Dissimilar Metals And The Risk of Galvanic Corrosion in Mating Connectors​

Put elsewhere or delete if posted already. Sorry OP......good info....and I'm tired so I put it here.

Dissimilar Metals And The Risk of Galvanic Corrosion in Mating Connectors

 

[Turbo4whl]

IDK, but if it's a Ford Taurus door or the rear hatch on an explorer I'd say about twice.

 

[Grumpy]

Copper-coated or copper clad aluminum wire is an absolute sin, no matter the price.
The best quality copper wire is what is termed "low oxygen copper wire." If you ever purchase some, your bank account will think you just purchased major components for the space shuttle.
I would never purchase wire from Harbor Freight, period - even if they are selling "Grote" or "Trucklite," as I doubt the actual brand being valid, or if real, of a lower quality.

 

[idahovette]

Do they still make Belden brand, used to see it at NAPA. Still have some laying around. Any good?

 

[Radiohead]

A wire made out of more, finer strands is always better than fewer, larger strands when considering flex qualities. The flex zone should be as long as practical to spread the actual flex out instead of being concentrated in a smaller area. The more supple the cable/wire feels, the more/finer the strands are.

Having said this, don't go down the stupid hole looking for some space age snake oil fancy pants wire to make this one area of your wiring diagram. Camar068 nailed it; flexibility of the harness is key.

something like that you want to make sure you "guide" it and not "anchor" it. As in Nascar steering, Let it go where it wants to go and "guide" it there and not "force" it there (nascar ref for tire wear). I'm gonna guess a quarter/half a loop may add some "spring" to it to add life to it. I'd think the more "free" it is, the better.

Also, strand count would make a huge difference....flexibility wise and current capacity wise.

Just a few things that rattled in my head when I read your post.

 

[skysurfer]

Something I recently used while building a Li-ion battery pack is silicone covered wire. It’s a game changer when it comes to applications where a wire needs to flex and move, that’s why it’s used in robots that do repetitive manufacturing work. Once you work with silicone wire you’ll never use conventional wire again.

 

[Ricko1966]

The answer is 3.

 

[SirRobyn0]

Do they still make Belden brand, used to see it at NAPA. Still have some laying around. Any good?

Belden still makes ignition wires for NAPA, well I don't know that Belden is actually making them, but they are branded that way. I'm not aware of any other products Belden branded anymore. Seems like the Belden quality isn't what it use to be though.

 

[idahovette]

^^^^^^What is?

 

[1STLS1]

In material handling equipment, later model Yale and Hyster electric reach trucks used a multi short stranded wire to go over the pulleys and sheaves. When you would split the casing on the wire it would have numerous short thin strands layer together that would allow it to flex and stretch if needed. Imagine a box of spaghetti laid out with 15 sticks overlapping each other at different points. I never seen it used in another application but am sure it has been.