How does the coolant flow?

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RockyGryphon

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Because it's the middle of winter, my diesel is hard to start. I've dealt with that for years by plugging in the freeze plug block heater that came standard, battery blankets, watching pairs of batteries die, etc. I've even driven downhill in winter and watched the engine get so cold it started sputtering and spewing cold-start smoke out the back end. I got an Eberspacher coolant heater that runs off diesel and electricity to spark up heat and pump heated coolant. I've decided to go with a separate fuel tank and battery isolated from the main system with a switch to not drain the batteries, but still take a charge when the engine is running. Ideally, I understand the coolant should be heated and pass through the engine to warm it enough to make starting easier or help in extremely cold driving. The only problem is, other than the manual's instructions to connect the coolant heater to the heater core coolant hoses, I'm not sure which hose is which and where they flow. Do the heater core hoses come from the radiator and go to the engine, bypassing the thermostat? Can/Does ANYTHING bypass the thermostat before it heats up and opens? Which heater core hose flows into the core? Does anyone know?
 

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The bottom core hose is the "IN" hose and the top hose should go to the radiator and flows out of the core.

Can you show us a link to the heater you bought? I am wondering if it has a circulation pump on it.
 

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Your cooling system is what keeps your car from having a meltdown. If you didn't have some way to cool things off, your engine would turn into a solid block of useless metal in no time flat.
 

RockyGryphon

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The bottom core hose is the "IN" hose and the top hose should go to the radiator and flows out of the core.

Can you show us a link to the heater you bought? I am wondering if it has a circulation pump on it.

It does have a coolant pump as can be seen in the pdf diagram. I don't know the flow rate.

Espar D5 SC

http://www.espar.com/products/fuel-...uct-selection/coolant-heaters/hydronic-5.html

brochure pdf:

http://www.espar.com/fileadmin/data/countrysites/EB_Kanada/pdf/Hydronic_D5_-SC-S-E_Spec_sheet.pdf




Could you please tell me if I have this right for my 1985 6.2L diesel engine?

Until the engine/coolant heats enough to open the thermostat and go to the radiator, coolant flows from the water pump, through the engine, the crossover, to the heater core which outputs to the radiator and back to the water pump, and separately from the crossover through the bypass back to the water pump.

When the engine/coolant is hot enough (190F) and opens the thermostat, the water pump pulls coolant from the radiator, which still flows from the heater core, but now also flows separately from the crossover through the open thermostat. Coolant still flows to the heater core and through the bypass into the water pump, but most gets pushed through the radiator based on the size of the hoses.

So to heat up a frigid engine based on this, it looks like if I put the Espar heater on the heater core intake hose, coolant will at least get pushed through the heater core, out to the radiator, through the water pump, engine, crossover and back to the Espar heater. I suppose flow could also go against the water pump vanes and directly back to the Espar heater and heater core, but guessing from the two outlets from the water pump into the engine making a path of less resistance, I assume that either more or at least some coolant will flow into and through the engine, coming back out the crossover and into the heater core hose back to the Espar heater. The only problem left is to figure out if allowing heated coolant through the heater core and into the radiator will cool it too much, or if the location where the heater core hose feeds to the radiator is the same tank that will flow straight down and out to the water pump. Maybe it would be better to put the Espar heater on the bypass, taking from the crossover and directly to the water pump. This would probably heat the engine faster. How does this sound?

Thanks for the replies!
 

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I'm not sure how the 6.2 t-stat works but the one's I'm familiar with close off the bypass when the t-stat opens, but that is on newer engines.

I'd put the heater on the bypass side to heat the engine side of the system first. That way the engine side of the circuit would warm up first. That would help the engine crank sooner and helps the oil warm up a tiny bit so it isn't quite as thick.

If it gets warm enough the t-stat will open and help warm the coolant in the radiator.
 

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WOOAAAHHH !

I did not realize the scope of that heater. That is something like for big rigs. Now way would I use something like that on a pickup truck. I totally misunderstood this from the beginning.

Like the previous post said if you are having a hard time keeping it warm even going down the road install a grille cover. I even made one out of cardboard.

If you want extra help with the plug in block heater you already have, install a coolant heater in the lower radiator hose. They work pretty good. Is your thermostat working right? Are you running a winter additive in your fuel?
 

RockyGryphon

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Do you have a winter front? My 6.2 loves it during the winter. Warms up quicker and stays warm while driving. This is the one I have on my truck: http://www.jatonkam35s.com/cucvwinterfront.htm

I actually have a winter front but didn't need it going uphill for several miles. I missed an exit on a rocky mountain freeway one winter and ended up going downhill for a mile or so to the next exit... enough to make the engine so cold it was smoking out the back like from a cold start. I suppose I could have turned on the glow plugs (I think I probably did with no effect), but that's the one time I've actually seen the engine get that cold. I once tried putting the winter front on when it was really cold (can't remember temp), but it actually made the engine get too warm. I had to pull over again and take it off.


I'm not sure how the 6.2 t-stat works but the one's I'm familiar with close off the bypass when the t-stat opens, but that is on newer engines.

I'd put the heater on the bypass side to heat the engine side of the system first. That way the engine side of the circuit would warm up first. That would help the engine crank sooner and helps the oil warm up a tiny bit so it isn't quite as thick.

If it gets warm enough the t-stat will open and help warm the coolant in the radiator.

Well I put in synthetic Shell Rotella T6, 5W-40 for those -20F days. I haven't seen anything showing that the bypass gets closed when the thermostat opens on this engine. What year engine are you talking about?

I agree that it seems better to put the heater on the bypass so it goes through the water pump and engine first, and hopefully not through the water pump, radiator, heater core and crossover, back to the bypass. The instruction manual says to go to the heater core which then goes to the engine, but that seems to be how most other engines are set up, not this one. I found an engine manual that shows that early 1983 G-P (I don't know what G-P is) engines have the heater core return going to both the radiator and water pump. On my 1985, the heater core return only goes to the radiator on the same side as the radiator outlet to the water pump which is essentially the same. The heater core intake comes from the crossover before the thermostat.


WOOAAAHHH !

I did not realize the scope of that heater. That is something like for big rigs. Now way would I use something like that on a pickup truck. I totally misunderstood this from the beginning.

Like the previous post said if you are having a hard time keeping it warm even going down the road install a grille cover. I even made one out of cardboard.

If you want extra help with the plug in block heater you already have, install a coolant heater in the lower radiator hose. They work pretty good. Is your thermostat working right? Are you running a winter additive in your fuel?

The engine runs warm enough to run smoothly under most conditions, just not downhill in harsh cold of winter (eastbound past the Eisenhower tunnel in Colorado at the Continental Divide) where it's basically coasting downhill and getting big windchill. Otherwise, I'd like to be able to park it away from a power outlet (on the street, parking lot, ski resort, etc.) when it's really cold out for a few hours, and still be able to start without tons of smoke, extra cranking on the battery and glowing while cranking to keep it from stalling until it's warm enough to keep running in gear. There are plenty of pickup trucks using this heater, especially where it's really cold (-20 all the time). Anyway, it would also be nice to get some heat in the cab sometime before half an hour, even better if it's before starting and the windshield has already melted ice and snow off!

What winter additive do you recommend? One of the Power Service ones? I usually put one in, but haven't gotten one specifically for winter.
 

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but it actually made the engine get too warm. I had to pull over again and take it off.

Do you remember how warm too warm is? Was your temp gauge near or in the red?
 

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:popcorn:
 

RockyGryphon

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I don't remember how warm, but warm enough to want to stop and remove it. It was better driving cool than risking getting too hot. I don't think I let it get to redline for at least for ten years.

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Ironic as now i'm having problems with overheating. My truck was doing fine when it was about 7 out with a winter front, now it idles at around 200 degrees. I think my radiator is blocked up. Figures as I just replaced all the coolant and hoses, now I have to drain it all and start over.
 

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When is the last time you had the cooling sytem flushed?
 

RockyGryphon

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When is the last time you had the cooling sytem flushed?

Well, if they didn't flush it when the radiator was replaced, then, never? It's been running fine since then. The old radiator fell apart. I drove about a hundred miles during a move and had to stop and refill the radiator every few miles until I got some steel epoxy and closed the seam between a side tank and the fins. It held for another 900 miles or so until I got moved. Of course, also heard a noise halfway in the middle of the night. At the end of the trip, I pulled the rear diff cover and saw a boat propeller where the pinion was suppose to be. Splines worn down with no lube I guess and finally reared its ugly head.

I suppose if I install the heater, I'll do a flush then and replace all the hoses. Unless the coolant looks clean.

I read that there's a 180/190 degree stick to test the thermostat with, just mark a bit of wax (like what's used in the thermostat) on the crossover and see if that's the point at which the temp stops or cools down, showing that the thermostat has opened. Maybe yours is not working right anymore, unless of course it's something else. I don't know what.
 

Milblazer

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I'm guessing my flush knocked something loose and now its trapped in the radiator. Probably didn't help that I used some stop leak when a small hole opened up. Was your radiator replaced with an aluminum one by any chance?
 

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