How can i separate my rotor from hub? Looks like its all one piece need help!

[Ricko1966]

This is my point exactly. No one asks to have rotors or drums cut now. The old established stores have people that knew how to cut a rotor. Now the same people at chain stores that don't know how to lookup a part in a book, are the same people who will try to cut a rotor. They can't do that either.

Who remembers brake shoe arc grinders?

 

[Ricko1966]

“Burnishing” the shoes of drum brakes is from way back in the day.. and is still advised for trailers, especially large heavy RVs.
I do it after a brake rebuild on my fifthwheel trailer.
Disc brakes, I’m sure it’s advised but probably hardly ever done in todays world.

And regrinding the shoe arc. We used to turn drums with a wheel bolted on and torqued,so the drum would be turned in the same stressed condition it would be used in.

 

[Turbo4whl]

Who remembers brake shoe arc grinders?

We had one in our machine shop. Brake blocks were square cut. Rivet punch machine, punch the rivets, clean and paint the shoes. Switch out the machine and set all the new rivets.

And regrinding the shoe arc. We used to turn drums with a wheel bolted on and torqued,so the drum would be turned in the same stressed condition it would be used in.

Our large brake lathe had a hoist with a scale. Open center wheels, 10.00 20 duals still on the hub with the bolted on drums. After mounting on the spindle we added a bearing with a lifting eye to the end and used the hoist to lift the bow out of the spindle, about 80% of the scale load.

Last phase, cam grind the newly relined brake shoes to match the freshly cut drums. Something about the asbestos being bad for you we stopped.

 

[AuroraGirl]

I think Perry said it all by liking the posts I made about brake burnishing. He even laughed about the Escapes. The Transits I service are even worse than the Escapes, stupid, batteries under the driver's seat, how lame.

I thought he was the guy i was talking about for a second

@Turbo4whl yup you said it Wayne^^^^^^^^^^^ Also @AuroraGirl sometimes it's better for me to keep my mouth shut!!!!!!.........lol

you survive today!!!

So I'm curious now if the "burnishing" term is a regional thing. I've always heard it called "bedding" the brakes.

And @Turbo4whl yeah I can see how lighter vehicles tend to burnish on their own, especially considering the way most people drive now. Drive fast, tailgate, slam on the brakes and roll through stop signs, lol.

burnish and bedding are the same to my understanding

 

[Fat 454]

If you need to get drums or discs re-machined properly, I find most of the Ag store / tractor supply shops in our local area are the best bet. Good service, right equipment and quality work. Maybe a different mentality compared to the auto parts stores ( long term maintenance v. chuck out and replace ) ?

 

[CalSgt]

The last few brake jobs I had done on late model stuff it seems like factory brakes last way longer than my older vehicles. Front brakes on my square used to last like 30K or so, my wife's 2017 suburban had 112K miles when I dd the brakes last month. The rotors were still flat and not warped but were heat checked. I opted to just replace them with a Powerstop kit, it will be worth it if they last another 100K.

Powerstop has a kinda intense break in procedure...
5 moderate to aggressive braking from 40 to 10 MPH in rapid succession without allowing brakes to cool
followed by 5 moderate braking from 35 to 5 MPH in rapid succession without allowing brakes to cool
Do not come to a complete stop
if an emergency or complete stop is required quickly shift to park or neutral and release the brake pedal
Drive at least 5 minutes with minimal or no brake usage or as long as possible to allow brakes to completely cool

 

[AuroraGirl]

The last few brake jobs I had done on late model stuff it seems like factory brakes last way longer than my older vehicles. Front brakes on my square used to last like 30K or so, my wife's 2017 suburban had 112K miles when I dd the brakes last month. The rotors were still flat and not warped but were heat checked. I opted to just replace them with a Powerstop kit, it will be worth it if they last another 100K.

Powerstop has a kinda intense break in procedure...
5 moderate to aggressive braking from 40 to 10 MPH in rapid succession without allowing brakes to cool
followed by 5 moderate braking from 35 to 5 MPH in rapid succession without allowing brakes to cool
Do not come to a complete stop
if an emergency or complete stop is required quickly shift to park or neutral and release the brake pedal
Drive at least 5 minutes with minimal or no brake usage or as long as possible to allow brakes to completely cool

sounds like the friction material is very specific formulation of things that need to be heated just right to wear properly.

the brakes last longer 1) because the rear brakes now do more than they used to
2) the surfaces are larger
3) they cool better
4) the materials have changed from wear pads faster but barely wear rotor to wear rotor faster and pads slower, the reasoning is mostly due to environmental impact of iron vs the long list of stuff in brake pads. copper, asbestos, other dust/buildup is much worse
5) by design, they also drag less